I’d determine what your tire size is going to be. If you decide 37s, go with Currie Dana 60s and be done with it.
Front automatic and, most importantly, rear selectable is even more applicable to a daily driver. Admittedly, I put 200,000 miles on my Toyota truck with a rear Detroit (122" wheelbase - don't know if that mattered) but when/if my factory lockers shit the bed I'll be probably be going front automatic and definitely rear selectable.LJ- does that change for a daily driver?
no issue that I'm aware ofI suppose with manual hubs it would be a non issue but what about with unit bearings?
The amount of height bigger axles would give you is negligible and the pumpkin would hang down further than a Dana 44. Some of that would be offset by larger tires, but why? Why 37’s on a DD? I’d say you need a stretch. I personally wouldn’t do it. To do it right would take years.I picked up an 06 LJ not too long ago with plans of slowly building it. However, my axles sucked in some water and decided to self destruct a couple weeks ago. So now I "get" to push the fast forward button and progress this build at a MUCH faster rate. I'm trying to maintain some decent financial decisions through all of this but at the same time don't really want to have to rebuild it later. On road performance is equally important to me as this is my daily driver.
General build goals: this is a daily driver and I want it to stay that way. Keep it as light as possible using aluminum instead of steel where it's feasible. Able to wheel it fairly hard on the weekend and drive to work on Monday. I would like to stay away from proprietary parts as much as possible. Currently I'm on 35s, may go to 37s later but wont go bigger than 37s.
I'm looking at either a ECGS D489 w/JK outers or a RockJock 60 for the front and either a ECGS semi float 60 rear or a RockJock 60 rear. I'm planning on a front E-locker and rear Detroit, probably going to go with 5:13s
Other things that will happen at about the same time, a Savvy or UCF tummy tuck and all that goes into it and a 6-pinion, wide chain, SS SYE transfer case rebuild. Will also be replacing the current lift with a Currie/Savvy lift. Steering will be sorted after axles are solidified.
Looking for experience based guidance on what axle combo and width and why you recommend it. I'm not locked into these options they are just the one's I've turned up in the searching I've done. Also by going to D60s how much lift would they effectively give over stock based on axle tube diameter?
I know folks who daily drive at TJ. I would certainly not refer to them as insane.Sanity check - if you want a Jeep Wrangler, there is a certain maximum tire size that makes sense with the wheelbase...
If you want bigger, build a buggy.
Otherwise buy a replacement Dana 44 from scrapped Jeep or repair current axle (should be a Dana 44 if it is an Unlimited).
Paying for an axle that costs more than most entire TJs is ludicrous.
Daily driving a stock TJ is insane in my opinion. Daily driving a TJ on 37's is absolutely crazy nuts ridiculous WTF are you thinking have you never driven a nice modern car yes you could but why would you want to?
My new build is intended to be daily driven capable and enjoyable. Why would anyone assume any different?I know folks who daily drive at TJ. I would certainly not refer to them as insane.
I know folks who daily drive a TJ on 37's. I would certainly not refer to them as crazy nuts.
I know folks who have put high dollar axles under their rigs. I would not call their decision ludicrous.
You are entitled to your opinion - however misguided. But casting aspersions toward people, and making ridiculous generalizations, says more about you then anyone you are trying to ridicule.
Not that it can't be done.General build goals: this is a daily driver and I want it to stay that way. Keep it as light as possible using aluminum instead of steel where it's feasible. Able to wheel it fairly hard on the weekend and drive to work on Monday. I would like to stay away from proprietary parts as much as possible. Currently I'm on 35s, may go to 37s later but wont go bigger than 37s.
Well, we kinda' have a similar wheelin' philosophy - I'd rather break it than risk winchin'...In regards to "bulletproofing" your drivetrain, the most significant part is between your ears, like I said I would rather winch up something than risk breaking. I'm mostly seeking information from guys like @NashvilleTJ and @gogetter that have done a similar swap before to learn what other issues I may or will likely run into that I don't know about yet.
A little back ground on me, I graduated from WyoTech years ago then worked in a smaller 4wd shop before moving onto a different career. The actual doing of the work I don't have an issue with, I just want to know what I don't know.
I've considered stretching the wheelbase, but this is all going to have to go together on a fairly tight time frame and I don't think I want to open that can of worms right now. that will likely be something for later. If I stretch the wheelbase I will probably stretch tub at the wheel wells as well.
In your opinion, would moving the tank to avoid possibility of axle interference be worth it? It would set the stage for a stretch later.Well, we kinda' have a similar wheelin' philosophy - I'd rather break it than risk winchin'...
The LJ is a great start. In some ways it's easier to get a big wheelbase stretch than on a TJ. I'm at 115" with full fenders in the back (meaning no comp cut). Cut out the extra cross member, move the tank all the way back, put corner armor on to move the wheel wells back, add a set of links and coilovers and boom - you're there. If you are running big tires, you can get away without modifying the frame and still get descent uptravel.
A bit of an oversimplification, but you get the idea.
No - only move that tank if you are doing a big stretch. And by a big stretch I mean moving the rear back something like 5 or 6+ inches or so - which is no small task. Also, don’t do it until you actually do the stretch. Otherwise, the tank will drag even worse than it does now.In your opinion, would moving the tank to avoid possibility of axle interference be worth it? It would set the stage for a stretch later.