Correct. Then you get to do whatever fitting and clearancing is needed for those 16" travel shocks to work at whatever travel bias you want out of them. Unpack that and good luck with the project.
Bushwacker flat fenders and 35's
- Thread starter senecagreen
- Start date
Correct. Then you get to do whatever fitting and clearancing is needed for those 16" travel shocks to work at whatever travel bias you want out of them. Unpack that and good luck with the project.
So I'm gone for a few hours and this gives you time to keep trying...
If I was to park my jeep in the driveway and start putting weight in the back until the springs compressed enough for the bumpstops to hit then yes the 4" gap to the bottoming pad would taken up. Call that travel or whatever you want. the body would be sinking evenly onto the tires so there is that.
The gap between the top of my rear tire at rest and that sharp arch in the fenderwell is a little over 8". Now if I put my drivers side front tire up on a rock it transfers weight to the passenger rear (I'm stating something you obviously already know and this is what I mean by flexing the suspension) and somehow by the time the extended bumpstop hits that space has been reduced by 7".
So there is that. Technically uptravel? Prob not technically correct but the space was reduced by 7" however we want to say it happened and still off the sharp lip.
My original post was that by the time this happens the tire was getting into the stock fender and by removing the stock fender and replacing it with the Bushwacker I got the clearance I needed.
These are all factual measurements so there is that as well.
I also stated that I know that some of you won't agree but it is working for me.
That was also a accurate statement as it wasn't long at all for some of you to disparage the solution to my tire hitting the stock fender just as I predicted.
It is working for me. I never said this is what everyone should do or even that my way is best. I just shared my info.
Some of you felt the need to somehow prove what? lol
I can't tell you what works for you. I can only tell you what worked for me and there was nothing inaccurate about that.
If I was to park my jeep in the driveway and start putting weight in the back until the springs compressed enough for the bumpstops to hit then yes the 4" gap to the bottoming pad would taken up. Call that travel or whatever you want. the body would be sinking evenly onto the tires so there is that.
The gap between the top of my rear tire at rest and that sharp arch in the fenderwell is a little over 8". Now if I put my drivers side front tire up on a rock it transfers weight to the passenger rear (I'm stating something you obviously already know and this is what I mean by flexing the suspension) and somehow by the time the extended bumpstop hits that space has been reduced by 7".
So there is that. Technically uptravel? Prob not technically correct but the space was reduced by 7" however we want to say it happened and still off the sharp lip.
My original post was that by the time this happens the tire was getting into the stock fender and by removing the stock fender and replacing it with the Bushwacker I got the clearance I needed.
These are all factual measurements so there is that as well.
I also stated that I know that some of you won't agree but it is working for me.
That was also a accurate statement as it wasn't long at all for some of you to disparage the solution to my tire hitting the stock fender just as I predicted.
It is working for me. I never said this is what everyone should do or even that my way is best. I just shared my info.
Some of you felt the need to somehow prove what? lol
I can't tell you what works for you. I can only tell you what worked for me and there was nothing inaccurate about that.
No. You put jack stands under the frame, remove the coil springs, disconnect the sway bar, and fully cycle the axle with a floor jack.
You expected us to say we don’t agree. That’s what you said in your first post.
So why did you post it? To give out bad misleading information about suspensions, tire sizes, uptravel, and how things work? It’s not that we disagree with what you said, but what you did and how you didn’t admit to making compromises and then tried to argue nonsense when someone called you out on your crap.
That is so many words to say you don’t have a clue what uptravel is.
You expected us to say we don’t agree. That’s what you said in your first post.
It’s not that we disagree with what you said, but what you did and how you didn’t admit to making compromises and then tried to argue nonsense when someone called you out on your crap.
I said some of you won't agree (that would be you) but it is working for me. I shared info on how I managed my tire hitting my stock fender. I didn't mislead anyone but accept responsibility for leading you on, yet to be fair I gave you plenty of opportunities to stop before you embarrased yourself which you prove by continueing on.
There is always members like you on these forums. I'm sure that you do have good info to share here and that you have shared good info in the past and willl continue to do so in the future.
Everyone benefits from that. Your discourse here is over. Move on or not.
I'm done responding to you.
@senecagreen I think part of the problem (not going into the up-travel numbers) is that your post seemed to imply that the fenders increased travel numbers. The factory fenders, being pliable, do not limit travel. These types of fenders (whether people like the style or not) do not change the location of the metal tub which is the actual limiting factor. Do these keep your tires from rubbing on the factory flare? I'm guessing so, based on your own report. However, they are not actually increasing anything. I'm not saying you MEANT to say that they did, however, that is how your post came off. This has been hashed out many times, especially with front fenders, and the answer will always be the same. They may be the style you like, they may keep your tire from rubbing on the plastic flare, but they do not increase travel or meaningful clearance.
For reference, my front tires rub like crazy on my front flares due to getting a good deal on 35s before I have quite enough lift. But the flare moves, the metal fender will not move until you actually damage it.
For reference, my front tires rub like crazy on my front flares due to getting a good deal on 35s before I have quite enough lift. But the flare moves, the metal fender will not move until you actually damage it.
Assuming you took these measurements accurately, then yes, what you're describing is 7" of articulation up travel.
Suspension travel is defined by movement at the wheel hub. It's absolutely possible, even common, to get different travel numbers under articulation (twisting the axle) vs entire axle travel. For those that have a problem with this statement, well,
Thought experiment: what would happen to travel if you kept everything the same except for axle width? Say we took a stock TJ and bolted on some 6" wheel spacers.
Up travel while compressing both sides wouldn't change. It'd be exactly the same.
Up travel under articulation would be significantly increased. You would drive further up a flex ramp and get a higher RTI score. This is a fact.
People typically assume level axle travel when discussing travel numbers. I certainly do. But both ways are valid and important to functionality. You're measurement of 4" from pad to bumpstop suggests 4" of parallel up travel, which would be the same as stock. But that doesn't count bumpstop compression. The stock bumpstops will fully compress until the metal holding cup hits the pad.
Stock parallel up travel is about 4". Add 2.5" of lift, subtract 1.5" of bumpstop extension, and you get 5" of up travel. This is a reasonable estimate. ACTUAL travel needs to be measured to know for sure.
Suspension travel is defined by the shock travel. Anything else is a matter of clearances.
Again, the problem you keep running into is your refusal to step back from yourself and your refusal to understand how to any of this works with even a basic level of nuance.
Naw bro, you just described yourself. Dude has shown he's trying to understand and communicate. You're the one oversimplifying and being dogmatic.
I don’t care if you respond to me or not. I’d prefer not since it just perpetuates ignorance of how things work. Thank you for sharing that I get the last word.
You never cycled your suspension. You don’t know if it will hit.
Uptravel is the amount of shock shaft showing, but if your bumpstop is not set to allow for clearances then you will have contact and that will limit the amount of useable uptravel.
2.5” of suspension lift with no body lift is not enough to run 35’s and preserve useable stock uptravel. We already know this.
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I agree with you
This is mine with a 4" Currie lift before adding a 1" BL. I see no way you can run 35's without trimming metal