C-clip not coming off

[Gfacer]

Hi everyone,

I bought a used ZJ axle set and I'm going to use the front axle and take apart the rear to take the existing truetrac out and then get a differential shop to do my rear gears.

I got the differential open and the truetrac opened and I, eventually, got the axle spacer out even though it was extremely tight (I threaded a large zip tie around it so I could pull it).

But now I am having an issue taking out the c-clips. There is not a lot of room and you have to push in the axles quite far to expose the clips enough. It seems like there is enough room to get them off when I work the axle in, they rotate freely and I can get something in between the outer edge of the truetrac and the c-clip but they won't fall out, they won't pull off with magnets (at least what I had at hand) and I've even tried dental picks to grab the two ends or the C from behind and pull them out but that is not working either (got that idea from another forum).

They do pop slightly but then seem to bind. Spent hours on it today with zero progress.

Any thoughts or suggestions?

 

[hear]

@machoheadgames - is this possibly that deal I've seen you write about where there are two different width c-clips? Maybe his are mismatched?

 

[macleanflood]

Don't you have to unbolt something on the TruTrac to get access to the C clips?

Only Tru Trac install I did was on my 2001 F250...full floater, Sterling 10.5"...so no clips.

My Eaton E-Locker was a jigsaw puzzle...had to remove a window or something to get to the clips.

-Mac

 

[Gfacer]

Don't you have to unbolt something on the TruTrac to get access to the C clips?

Only Tru Trac install I did was on my 2001 F250...full floater, Sterling 10.5"...so no clips.

My Eaton E-Locker was a jigsaw puzzle...had to remove a window or something to get to the clips.

-Mac

Yeah the getting into the C clip area (hog ring and cap) was the only part that went to plan.

 

[macleanflood]

Rust or corrosion? I've seen them rusted on before. Axle looked like it was on a submarine.

-Mac

 

[machoheadgames]

@machoheadgames - is this possibly that deal I've seen you write about where there are two different width c-clips? Maybe his are mismatched?

There are actually not different width c clips. They are all the same width. However, I did struggle to get the c clips both installed into the TrueTrac and back out afterward. I ended up using needle nose pliers (needle nose vise grips were too big) and really clamping down to maintain my grip. Even then it still took multiple tries. Eaton does a bad job of building the pockets the clips sit in, so they like to get stuck. Sanding down the circumference of the clip lightly would maybe help future installs.

I did at one point think that there were different width c clips or axle shaft buttons, but I ended up debunking that. There were for sure different width center pins between the traclok and open diff, and the different width pin just happens to push the axle shafts slightly further apart or closer together depending on which one is installed. The carriers that use the thicker pin (I think that was the trakloc?) have slightly deeper machined pockets so the axles can spread further apart and make the room for the wider pin. No difference in axle shafts of the clips after all, only differences in shafts are ABS or not (tone ring installed, or not).

 

[Gfacer]

There are actually not different width c clips. They are all the same width. However, I did struggle to get the c clips both installed into the TrueTrac and back out afterward. I ended up using needle nose pliers (needle nose vise grips were too big) and really clamping down to maintain my grip. Even then it still took multiple tries. Eaton does a bad job of building the pockets the clips sit in, so they like to get stuck. Sanding down the circumference of the clip lightly would maybe help future installs.

I did at one point think that there were different width c clips or axle shaft buttons, but I ended up debunking that. There were for sure different width center pins between the traclok and open diff, and the different width pin just happens to push the axle shafts slightly further apart or closer together depending on which one is installed. The carriers that use the thicker pin (I think that was the trakloc?) have slightly deeper machined pockets so the axles can spread further apart and make the room for the wider pin. No difference in axle shafts of the clips after all, only differences in shafts are ABS or not (tone ring installed, or not).

Ok I'll grab some good needle nose for today's attempts (bought better magnet last night). Couldn't find them yesterday.

But as long as I know they can be a stubborn pita then I'll try until I succeed. Thanks.

 

[hear]

I did at one point think that there were different width c clips or axle shaft buttons, but I ended up debunking that. There were for sure different width center pins between the traclok and open diff, and the different width pin just happens to push the axle shafts slightly further apart or closer together depending on which one is installed. The carriers that use the thicker pin (I think that was the trakloc?) have slightly deeper machined pockets so the axles can spread further apart and make the room for the wider pin. No difference in axle shafts of the clips after all, only differences in shafts are ABS or not (tone ring installed, or not).

ok, that all sounds familiar now. I knew you had done a bunch of homework on this. Hopefully this info gets OP rolling.

 

[Gfacer]

Ok got them. With more rough persuasion I got them further towards the center and was able to get needle nose pliers on them. The Axle's have what I'm guessing is tone rings and they limited the inward push. They are now a little damaged on the edges.