Cage question with half hard top

Coachgeo

Coachgeo

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couple questions on this plan.

Deck-n-Cage.png


using hard half top on TJ that is a classic CJ8 top so I would NOT want to drill hole in it for rear half family cage to go thru it. Cant afford a GR8 Top. Besides... the long rear deck idea does not work as well with rear half of roll bar anyway.

well obviously this means the pilot/cab cage has no triangulation so it sorta becomes worthless. (cage-ish thing in drawing is a rack not a cage)

options to remedy. NOT shown in drawing above:

. install reasonable cost weld in cab cage w/out rearward running triangulation as is usually done.... aka.. IN CAB ONLY portion. (not shown in any of below but most yall know what they are... I think. just in case... like below image

cage-kit-for-factory-roll-bars-97-06-wrangler-tj-2.jpg


. from B pillar (OEM cage hoop) triangulate forward along the seat. similar to attached pic. this would be sorta the replacement triangulation to what is removed by not using the rear one.
1967-1972-chevy-c10-roll-cage-kit_2_.jpg


. from A pillar (windshield frame) like shown in photo of blue TJ below. Drill thru windshield frame where over door bar bolts to it... and use an aftermarket bolt on plate (that usually is used "inside"on windshield frame to fab up new over door bar). bolt the OEM or newer "over door bar" all the way thru the A pillar to said steel plate on the "outside" of windshield frame/A pillar..... then off that plate..... weld a triangulation bar running FORWARD toward bumper. Where to attach that is a conundrum. (bar affixed in a way that it moves same as body) . NOT typical way to triangulate things... but better than nothing since I cant triangulate backward.. from B pillar (OEM cage hoop) triangulate forward along the seat. similar to attached pic. this would be sorta the replacement triangulation to what is removed by not using the rear one.
FwdTrangltion.jpg



Not doing competitions.... just want to protect my cranium about equal to OEM cage. OEM cage saved my skull once in 1.75 roll down a 60 degree bank due to black ice in another TJ. . My wonder is can I do the top two and leave out last one (A pillar/windshield frame mod) idea to reach that goal? Doing the front bar is a whole new pickle jar..... where the first two are somewhat reasonable to do.
 
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moderator- Is there a better forum for this discussion?

PS- presently leaning toward something like the chevy truck pic...... forward from B-pillar to the floor board.... not sure there is room though
 
This is the appropriate forum for that question and this is the better forum of the two you posted in for such questions. Be sure to ask about drilling your windshield for the forward triangulation links as you did in your other thread I ended up closing in the other forum.
 
all that kick stand over the hood is gonna do is create a point to transfer energy where you don't want it.

if your gonna build a box, boxes don't have legs. that orange tub is all wrong don't copy it.

yes we have room to place a tube from B to A along the bottom of the seat if we create an A pillar.
 
Jerry Bransford said:
This is the appropriate forum for that question and this is the better forum of the two you posted in for such questions. Be sure to ask about drilling your windshield for the forward triangulation links as you did in your other thread I ended up closing in the other forum.
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Just now seeing this reply. Now this makes more since on why you closed the other one. Thus ignore my pm/email... All Good.
 
someguysjeep said:
all that kick stand over the hood is gonna do is create a point to transfer energy where you don't want it.

if your gonna build a box, boxes don't have legs. that orange tub is all wrong don't copy it.

yes we have room to place a tube from B to A along the bottom of the seat if we create an A pillar.
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Pointing out things with a little science/physics.... mucho appreciate it.

Kick Stand- Transfer energy?? Can you elaborate more please? You speaking of energy from a mishap.. or energy (vibrations) of daily driving orr? Though honestly liking better B to A idea.

In Orange cab I suspect the legs are to decrease potential deformation of the curved tube going from B pillar to A pillar in a mishap. A more perfect world that triangulation would be a straight tube. Thinking since perfect world was not in the cards on their build (trade off for enter/exit cab) their compensation was the legs. Physics wise it makes since looking at it that way. Though maybe better would have been to run straight triangulation tube from B pillar to their lower tube along base of of seat.... welded on at about front end of seat? then one straight across from A pillar to said Triangulation tube from the B??

Look forward to crude drawing of your B to A triangulation thoughts along the seat.

Again not looking at a competition rig... just something to get back OEM-ish or better lost by cutting off the rear bars.
 
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I had already suggested triangulating it something like the below in his other thread but he doesn't want to drill the two required holes in his fiberglass half-top. What I never understood is why he was ok drilling two big holes in the windshield for his idea in his last photo but not in his half-top.

YJ rollbar.jpg
 
Jerry Bransford said:
I had already suggested triangulating it something like the below in his other thread but he doesn't want to drill the two required holes in his fiberglass half-top. What I never understood is why he was ok drilling two big holes in the windshield for his idea in his last photo but not in his half-top.

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if I drill thru the top; will do like as you propose or just keep OEM rear bar like set up; which is what Gr8 does now. They sell a sealing grommet to accommodate.... An idea Ive not fully discounted. Really want to keep the rear deck area free though beside rack to tie things down too.
 
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You have a couple concerns that are in deep conflict with each other. Building a cage that works well, both visually and functionally, with the half cab won't work with the desire to not chop up the half cab.
 
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Jerry Bransford said:
I had already suggested triangulating it something like the below in his other thread but he doesn't want to drill the two required holes in his fiberglass half-top. What I never understood is why he was ok drilling two big holes in the windshield for his idea in his last photo but not in his half-top.

View attachment 292957
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do see now though that in this YJ drawing the rear bars where they attach to hoop would be more outboard than the TJ's are. This is what really eats up space for rear deck. takes almost 6" of width out. Not sure you can get that out board of a fitment with the hard top though..... hmmm.....
 
transfer energy like......... it hits 1 bar and pushes another. slide a bit going downhill and bump the end of that brace into a rock or tree just cost you a window frame too, maybe more.


so no portion of the B bar remains if 1 uses this pup top?
 
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someguysjeep said:
transfer energy like......... it hits 1 bar and pushes another. slide a bit going downhill and bump the end of that brace into a rock or tree just cost you a window frame too, maybe more.


so no portion of the B bar remains if 1 uses this pup top?
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catch 22..... hit the corner at grill end yes. makes since... also that is a pivot point wanting to push windshield to inward.. which Im not fond off lol... yet if forward triangulation bar was bent downward in a misshap it would pull top of windshield frame (A pillar) forward would think not push backward. Win lose situation.

those issues and there is nothing good up front to attach too without massive fab going on. Example Jason has a bit of tube under his fenders so his forward triangulation makes more since. I won't have that.

decal_layout-jpg.jpg


Hence why lean more toward the B Pillar forward over a Pillar forward now. Like blue TJ in opening post... B pillar and top cross bar from B pillar to A pillar remains. though B will sit more vertical
 
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hmmm... now if could widen the rear part..... it might be worth drilling holes thru the top. example fab a platform that sits just below tub height with a plate on top to weld too and bolts to where OEM rear bar mounts in the corner.... thus allowing the rear bars to be more outboard like this gladiator set up. Though would want rear window side also outboard as much as possible.

tsr20-1-sport-rack-gladiator-jt-installed-angle2_0.jpg
 
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