Can't find the gasket I need idle air control valve

jaywebguy

jaywebguy

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Caldwell ID
Hey all, I can't find the gasket I need. I removed the throttle body off my 04 tj (4.0) to clean. I pulled the idle air control valve, also removed the housing that attaches it to the throttle body. There's a small gasket that just disintegrated between the 2 pieces. Anyone have a part number or know where I can find it? The main throttle body gasket was fine. I'm probably just going to order all 3 new sensors while it's off...

Thanks in advance and happy new year.
 
jaywebguy said:
Hey all, I can't find the gasket I need. I removed the throttle body off my 04 tj (4.0) to clean. I pulled the idle air control valve, also removed the housing that attaches it to the throttle body. There's a small gasket that just disintegrated between the 2 pieces. Anyone have a part number or know where I can find it? The main throttle body gasket was fine. I'm probably just going to order all 3 new sensors while it's off...

Thanks in advance and happy new year.
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A nice clean bead of RTV will do the trick.
 
Ya, I'm trying to avoid using rtv on this part. There has to be a gasket I can order.... Seriously though, I've tried searching and either I don't know what to ask for or it doesn't exist. maybe I shouldn't have pulled the housing off the throttle body, but damn that thing was dirty.
 
Go to any auto parts store and get yourself a sheet of cardboard gasket material. Then get a razor blade or Exacto knife and cut one out like shown below.

Punch the bolt holes then use the blade to trace against the openings and you'll have your gasket.

I'd definitely do this before I'd use RTV on that particular part.

This is what it'll look like when you're done.
Capture.JPG
 
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Jerry Bransford said:
Go to any auto parts store and get yourself a sheet of cardboard gasket material. Then get a razor blade or Exacto knife and cut one out like shown below.

Punch the bolt holes then use the blade to trace against the openings and you'll have your gasket.

I'd definitely do this before I'd use RTV on that particular part.

This is what it'll look like when you're done.
View attachment 215161
Click to expand...
That's the plan, I'll run over in the morning and buy some gasket material...... Still surprised no one else has run into this?
 
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I wasn’t able to find one. I used an extremely thin coat of rtv.
 
TJ4Jim said:
Jerry, been running like that almost 7 years now, notice I said a nice clean bead.
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Others may not be so lucky. There are places for RTV and there are places for gasket. An air intake system is best sealed with gaskets.

The air intake orifice just downstream from the IAC is tiny and a tiny piece of RTV getting sucked into it would plug it enough to prevent the engine from being able to idle.
 
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Welp, fixed the gasket. Cost me all of 5 bucks and I have plenty of extra gasket paper for next time. Also the jeep is idling at a stop just fine now. I'm still having the issue when I first start it like there's no fuel in the line. I think it's a bad fuel pump. I was going to hook my gauge up and test it, but there's not a port on the rail and I didn't have enough material to make a T to test with. Overall it was a very good day. I'll add another post with all the things I've done to the yellow lj I bought in October for my daughter. It's really coming together and I have most of the major items done. Right now she's driving my silver lj with me but I think we will have her ready for hers by summer.
 
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IF your Jeep sits over night and it acts as there is not fuel in the line; it is due to a leaking check valve.
The way to alleviate this would be to cycle the ignition switch from OFF to ON, but not RUN three times and then try to start the engine. The engine should start properly which confirms the check has leaked and the system pressure has bled off.
 
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CharlesHS said:
IF your Jeep sits over night and it acts as there is not fuel in the line; it is due to a leaking check valve.
The way to alleviate this would be to cycle the ignition switch from OFF to ON, but not RUN three times and then try to start the engine. The engine should start properly which confirms the check has leaked and the system pressure has bled off.
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Charles,

Is there another way to fix this besides replacing the full fuel pump assembly though? If I'm going to drop the fuel tank, I'm going to replace the full assembly.

Jason
 
Most people just deal with the check valve leaking back to the fuel tank.
Your only option that I know of to fix the leak back would be to drop the fuel tank.
I have heard of owners installing a separate check valve inline, but have never actually observed it done.
 
CharlesHS said:
Most people just deal with the check valve leaking back to the fuel tank.
Your only option that I know of to fix the leak back would be to drop the fuel tank.
I have heard of owners installing a separate check valve inline, but have never actually observed it done.
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I ordered a new fuel pump assembly from rockauto. My silver jeep was doing the same thing last spring. Dropping the fuel tank is pretty easy, plus with 150k miles on the yellow jeep, figured it wouldn't hurt just to replace the full assembly.
 
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Jerry Bransford said:
Go to any auto parts store and get yourself a sheet of cardboard gasket material. Then get a razor blade or Exacto knife and cut one out like shown below.

Punch the bolt holes then use the blade to trace against the openings and you'll have your gasket.

I'd definitely do this before I'd use RTV on that particular part.

This is what it'll look like when you're done.
View attachment 215161
Click to expand...
Ha! That's great. My wife learned to make sandals and have a leather hole punching tool. Guess whos's using it to make paper gaskets?
 
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If you can't find a template put a piece of paper on a thin towel and press the housing onto the paper firmly. It'll leave a perfect imprint you can trace. A single hole punch works great for bolt holes, you can use it like a nibbler to make larger holes.
 
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