Car pics too cool not to share

So that's not a factory stamping? What would make the valves lift further? Or is this a case of over rev and float?

I honestly don't know how or why yet. Waiting for the shop to call me so I can talk to the tech and see what he says.
Here's what he wrote me in the email.

I have the heads removed from the shortblock. Found something concerning, I've attached pictures for you to see.

Cylinder 3 and 4 pistons came in contact with the exhaust valves, cylinder 3 is pretty bad so that's the one in the picture. There is also some scoring on the cylinder wall in cylinder 3.

I measured piston protrusion and they are about .036" out of the hole. They should be in the .024"-.034" range according to manufacturer specifications. I usually set them up in the .026-.030" range on our engines to be safe.

This block must have had the deck surfaces milled at some point which is fine, but the pistons need to be machined as well, or use the .010" reduced compression height pistons that are available.

Long story short, we can't put this thing back together like this. Even if the valves are recessed into the head another .005", we'll still have a piston to cylinder head clearance issue. The head gasket thickness is only .059" so only .023" clearance between piston and head is just too tight once everything heats up and expands.

Once I talk to him and get more information I'll let everyone know.

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@Squatch what's the latest word on your truck? To maybe help you feel as though you are not the only one who got the short end of the stick on a deal, here's one of the pistons from my motorhome. I'd taken it to a shop in Spokane to have the head gaskets replaced and instead it looks like I'm going to need a new short block. The exhaust valves have been contacting the pistons on cylinder #3 & #4.

View attachment 511129

The shop contacted me today to say that the deep(er) pan arrived today, along with the extension to put the filter down closer to the bottom (so I don't risk cavitation on those hard launches from the stop light!) :ROFLMAO: Also received the transmission temperature gauge, so that'll be happening soon. Shift kit was installed, and new heat exchanger, as well. This is all on top of a fresh rebuild. Guessing I'll have it back by the end of the week. (y)

Sorry to hear about the relationship between your exhaust valves and the pistons, brother. Sounds like it's time for the pistons to get a "No Contact" order. So what's the deal? You doing 10,000 rpm shifts, or something? Them valves floating better than a fat lady in salt water? All kidding aside, that sucks, man. Truly does. :(
 
The shop contacted me today to say that the deep(er) pan arrived today, along with the extension to put the filter down closer to the bottom (so I don't risk cavitation on those hard launches from the stop light!) :ROFLMAO: Also received the transmission temperature gauge, so that'll be happening soon. Shift kit was installed, and new heat exchanger, as well. This is all on top of a fresh rebuild. Guessing I'll have it back by the end of the week. (y)

Cool, can't wait to hear about those power launches you'll be doing.

Sorry to hear about the relationship between your exhaust valves and the pistons, brother. Sounds like it's time for the pistons to get a "No Contact" order. So what's the deal? You doing 10,000 rpm shifts, or something? Them valves floating better than a fat lady in salt water? All kidding aside, that sucks, man. Truly does. :(

I'm sure it was that last pass on the dragstrip I was doing when I floated those valves. I'm still trying to wrap my head around how the pistons stick out so much. Reading some of the forums online though this seems to be a thing. If your pistons stick out too much you machine the tops of the pistons to get an equal height.
I'm starting to wonder if when the engine was out before if the block wasn't machined and then the pistons weren't?
 
I'm sure it was that last pass on the dragstrip I was doing when I floated those valves. I'm still trying to wrap my head around how the pistons stick out so much. Reading some of the forums online though this seems to be a thing. If your pistons stick out too much you machine the tops of the pistons to get an equal height.
I'm starting to wonder if when the engine was out before if the block wasn't machined and then the pistons weren't?

I'd almost bet on that motor having been out, before. Either the pistons weren't machined down when the block was, or the pistons (in #3 & 4 cylinders) maybe had been replaced for some reason, and there's a difference in height? Maybe the exhaust valves for those cylinders were replaced, and the difference lies in their lengths? If the rod bearings were so sloppy as to allow the pistons to exceed the deck height beyond the allowable tolerance, you'd have been hearing some god-awful knocking, so I'd think you could rule that out. It will be interesting to see what the shop comes up with for an answer. Weak valve springs, maybe? 🤷‍♂️
 
I'd almost bet on that motor having been out, before. Either the pistons weren't machined down when the block was, or the pistons (in #3 & 4 cylinders) maybe had been replaced for some reason, and there's a difference in height? Maybe the exhaust valves for those cylinders were replaced, and the difference lies in their lengths? If the rod bearings were so sloppy as to allow the pistons to exceed the deck height beyond the allowable tolerance, you'd have been hearing some god-awful knocking, so I'd think you could rule that out. It will be interesting to see what the shop comes up with for an answer. Weak valve springs, maybe? 🤷‍♂️

Yep the engine has been out before. We know this by the bent parts and body parts that indicate the engine was pulled previously. The engine also has ARP head studs installed on it plus Malhe head gaskets are also indicators that the engine has been out before. Like with any used vehicle purchase you never know what was done previously unless you know the PO.
But based on everything I'm finding out I'd guess that they'd done engine work to it and decked the block and then didn't trim the pistons as needed.

Won't know how much this is going to hurt yet but I know it's not going to be fun.
 
Yep the engine has been out before. We know this by the bent parts and body parts that indicate the engine was pulled previously. The engine also has ARP head studs installed on it plus Malhe head gaskets are also indicators that the engine has been out before. Like with any used vehicle purchase you never know what was done previously unless you know the PO.
But based on everything I'm finding out I'd guess that they'd done engine work to it and decked the block and then didn't trim the pistons as needed.

Won't know how much this is going to hurt yet but I know it's not going to be fun.

Apparently, you and I share a similar misery. Not a club I ever would have voluntarily joined, I can tell you that much.
 
Was thinking about a guy I used to work with who was into some cool stuff. One time, he left Seattle on a Friday and flew to Italy to buy a vintage Alfa Romeo GTA (!!!). Said he didn't want to risk the car getting sold to someone else. Paid $23,000 for it. Said it was a steal (I'll have to take his word for it). Had the car shipped to Seattle. Thing still had its original title! I want to say it was a '67, but I can't recall for sure. He drove it to work two or three times. The car had aluminum body panels, as I recall, and the aluminum roof panel was riveted on. I asked him if it would alright if I sat in it, and he said he'd rather I didn't, as he didn't feel all the aluminum used in the seat brackets was robust enough to handle my weight. Hmmm...:unsure: Definitely cool, yet definitely not for me.

Looked like this one (internet pic):
View attachment 511116

Nothing wrong with an old Alfa (apart from everything, but that's the allure of Alfas ;)). Not a GTA and not much Alfa left in it, this is a GT Junior done by Retropower a few years back.


I would definitely daily drive this. 🤪
 
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