Center Console Subwoofer

no. it would not. Not sure why people do this. Subwoofers need to move the air behind them. Can't do that if the air is filled with foam.
Respectfully ...ignore that as it is totally wrong. Lining the walls with polyfil or fiberglass will help. The biggest improvement will come from also lining the box with sounddeading material...this makes an enormous difference
If the sub you are buying recommends a bigger enclosure than the size of what you end up with then fill void by loosely filling with polyfil this has the effect of tricking the sub it’s in a larger enclosure by slowing the movement of air.
Good luck
 
  • Like
Reactions: thuddles
I have this:

https://www.crutchfield.com/product/item/default.aspx?i=206CWRT672
going in this:.. should I add poly fill inside the enclosure?
1611702571860.png
1611702593189.png
 
Respectfully ...ignore that as it is totally wrong. Lining the walls with polyfil or fiberglass will help. The biggest improvement will come from also lining the box with sounddeading material...this makes an enormous difference
If the sub you are buying recommends a bigger enclosure than the size of what you end up with then fill void by loosely filling with polyfil this has the effect of tricking the sub it’s in a larger enclosure by slowing the movement of air.
Good luck
Respectfully, feel free to ignore this advice.

foam in an enclosure works to dissipate standing waves. The waves from a subwoofer are several feet long so the foam will not have any effect on standing waves.
Your subwoofer housing is small relative to the wavelength in the frequencies you’re looking at. So you’ll have to rely on the mechanical properties of sound and the surrounding structure (including the air in the box). Adding foam to that small box will not trick anything into “thinking” it’s bigger (speakers don’t think, btw).

All that said, foam is cheap. Get some. Try with and without. Let your ears be the judge.
 
  • Like
Reactions: thuddles
The question is how much space do you have in that enclosure and how much space does the speaker call for?? how much power are you pushing?
I do not run with poly because i measured the space that my speakers needed and made sure it matched. poly is generally used when your enclosure does not match. sound deadening is always a great idea, weather its Dynonat ($$$) or some under-capret insulation from home depot ($)
 
  • Like
Reactions: Phileas Fogg
Also should considered adding sound insulation. I purchased the attached. Expensive but effective. $59.99 per box in ebay.
I used it everywhere and the tin can sound is no more. Also polyfill should complement it. Rip your cheap pillows.

20210126_211526[1].jpg


20210126_211526[1].webp
 
  • Like
Reactions: Phileas Fogg
Respectfully, feel free to ignore this advice.

foam in an enclosure works to dissipate standing waves. The waves from a subwoofer are several feet long so the foam will not have any effect on standing waves.
Your subwoofer housing is small relative to the wavelength in the frequencies you’re looking at. So you’ll have to rely on the mechanical properties of sound and the surrounding structure (including the air in the box). Adding foam to that small box will not trick anything into “thinking” it’s bigger (speakers don’t think, btw).

All that said, foam is cheap. Get some. Try with and without. Let your ears be the judge.
wrong!
I’m not arguing with an expert lol..

Firstly who said anything about foam?

Second bass standing waves are far too long and simply cannot happen in a small enclosure AND you use baffles not dampening ( eg. polyfil) to address standing waves.

Third...here is an extract from the car audiophile site:
Correction. The back waves do not generate heat. The back waves vibrate the polyfill fibers. The vibrating fibers generate heat. The result is that heated fibers raise the air temperature inside the sealed box. This lowers air density. Lower air density creates less of an "air spring" for the subwoofer cone. The net affect is the sub reacts as if it were in a larger box than it is.

So that’s it for you pal...

As far as the original question...Yes. Line your box with sound deadening such as Roadkill. This will make the biggest improved by far. Then add poly fill. The general rule is about 1lb per cubic foot. In this case I would add less than 1/2 Lb. do not over stuff just nice and loose. This will go someway to mitigate the smallness of this enclosure.
 

I have the same sub (but the 671 1 ohm version) in the same factory enclosure. I covered everything in Noico brand sound deadening. 10 sq ft for $20 off (cough) Amazon.

Every surface on the cassette tray. Already had it out, as I was putting a factory sub enclosure in where there was none before.
20210111_224054.jpg


Every surface on the sub enclosure.
20210112_000928.jpg


I trimmed the inside (only did one side in the console) to fit the sub enclosure. This side doesn't touch anything, except where the cutout is on the right side (see pic) where the enclosure contacts the console. The other side is screwed to the enclosure, and the enclosure had mat applied on every surface. It gets tight in there.
20210113_213028.jpg


20210113_230550.jpg


I pulled the factory amp and plugged the holes with locktighted nylon locknuts and machine screws. No polyfil, but a sealed enclosure. Kicker PXA200.1 amp. Got it all fired up today for the first time and I couldn't be happier! No rattles, deep bass, exactly what I was going for.
 
Last edited:
I have the same sub in the same factory enclosure. I covered everything in Noico brand sound deadening. 10 sq ft for $20 off (cough) Amazon.

Every surface on the cassette tray. Already had it out, as I was putting a factory sub enclosure in where there was none before.
View attachment 221398

Every surface on the sub enclosure.
View attachment 221400

I trimmed the inside (only did one side in the console) to fit the sub enclosure. This side doesn't touch anything, except where the cutout is on the right side (see pic) where the enclosure contacts the console. The other side is screwed to the enclosure, and the enclosure had mat applied on every surface. It gets tight in there.
View attachment 221401

View attachment 221402

I pulled the factory amp and plugged the holes with locktighted nylon locknuts and machine screws. No polyfil, but a sealed enclosure. Kicker PXA200.1 amp. Got it all fired up today for the first time and I couldn't be happier! No rattles, deep bass, exactly what I was going for.
how many watts you got going to that thing?? looks good man glad it came out the way you wanted.
 
Should be 200, if I researched and then wired correctly. 1ohm sub, wired in parallel (becomes 0.5 ohm) 0.5 ohm with that amp, 200 according to Kicker.

I toyed with the idea of converting the original large storage bin in the console into its own sub enclosure. Could have gone with an 8" sub. Money was about the same either way. Got a good deal on a console back half, and I needed other pieces off of it anyway.
 
  • Like
Reactions: thuddles
Should be 200, if I researched and then wired correctly. 1ohm sub, wired in parallel (becomes 0.5 ohm) 0.5 ohm with that amp, 200 according to Kicker.

I toyed with the idea of converting the original large storage bin in the console into its own sub enclosure. Could have gone with an 8" sub. Money was about the same either way. Got a good deal on a console back half, and I needed other pieces off of it anyway.
That sub is a DVC (dual voice coil). Each coil is 1 ohm so essentially a 2 ohm total. Wired in series makes it 4 ohm, parallel = 1 ohm.

Product description: The low-profile 43CWRT672 6-3/4” subwoofer - this sub handles up to 150 watts RMS so make sure you've got a solid amp to power it. You can wire the dual voice coils for either 4- or 1-ohm total impedance, giving you more wiring options when setting up your system.

You make have been looking at the specs for the 671. I don't know if it makes a difference with the amp that you are using but you may want to double check so that you don't fry your amp. I ordered a similar Kicker mono amp (Kicker 46CXA400.1T) since Crutchfield didn't list the 200 in stock.
 
Last edited:
I have the same sub in the same factory enclosure. I covered everything in Noico brand sound deadening. 10 sq ft for $20 off (cough) Amazon.

Every surface on the cassette tray. Already had it out, as I was putting a factory sub enclosure in where there was none before.
View attachment 221398

Every surface on the sub enclosure.
View attachment 221400

I trimmed the inside (only did one side in the console) to fit the sub enclosure. This side doesn't touch anything, except where the cutout is on the right side (see pic) where the enclosure contacts the console. The other side is screwed to the enclosure, and the enclosure had mat applied on every surface. It gets tight in there.
View attachment 221401

View attachment 221402

I pulled the factory amp and plugged the holes with locktighted nylon locknuts and machine screws. No polyfil, but a sealed enclosure. Kicker PXA200.1 amp. Got it all fired up today for the first time and I couldn't be happier! No rattles, deep bass, exactly what I was going for.
Good idea about the sound mat. I ordered some this morning!
 
  • Like
Reactions: GEEP4ME
keep us updated on what you end up doing!! I’ve though about fabing some bass pods on the back corners but it’s so much work for a novice like myself
Will do! Thinking of starting small with in-dash speaker pods, DB521 up front, DB621 in the sound bar, and a small Kenwood amp under the steering column.