Changing the clutch

Shwane

Shwane

Backcountry Jeeper
Supporting Member
Joined
Oct 16, 2016
Messages
521
Location
Youngsville, LA, United States
2002 Tj NV3550 5 speed


I've noticed my clutch is starting to show signs of retiring itself. When I first take off from an overnight sit I'm noticing when I ease out on the clutch to take of it dumps itself about halfway through as though I side stepped it, 2nd gear is becoming harder to engage, and some new noises besides the normal TJ rattle. Once everything is up to operating temps, the symptoms go away, all except for the new chirping like noise when releasing the clutch in first. My jeep has 110k on the clock, and I'm unsure of the maintenance on the clutch prior to 90k.

Anyway, I've chosen this kit:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CICYZ4/?tag=wranglerorg-20

And will use this guide:
http://www.4x4xplor.com/clutch.html

I've never changed a clutch before, but I am mechanically inclined. Is this something you guys would tackle or is it better left to a shop? I'm leaning on doing it myself because I don't have confidence in the local jeep shop. Reason, I asked for a quote to re-gear leaving out crucial info on purpose and they didn't ask and quoted me on the spot. Sooo...

Couple questions:
1. Is it worth the extra to get the metal TOB and not the plastic composite one (34$ extra)?
2. Any tips or tricks to make it simpler?

Thanks in advance
 
That's the best clutch kit to use. As far as the TOB, I used the LuK one and had no problems. I'm not sure if people really have problems with them or just don't like the look of them.

The job is pretty simple. Slide the transmission and TC back as a unit. Using a transmission jack makes it much easier, Harbor Freight has them really cheap. Since I was in there I also changed the TOB fork and the little spring clip, they were cheap. The whole thing took me about 5 hours all by myself. You will need a SUPER long extension and the proper TORX socket to get the top 2 bell housing bolts out. I don't remember the size TORX socket, but someone will post it here I'm sure.

Once complete you'll be happy you did it yourself and for all the $$$ you saved.
 
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Its a pretty easy job, if you take your time. I'd pull the tcase off the transmission before you drop them...will be easier to handle. Also, get the E12 socket for the top two bolts on the bell housing. Also get GOOD combo wrenches. My U-joint strap bolts were pretty tight, and my crapsman wrenches rounded the bolt heads off. They are only M8, and getting a socket in there can be tough. I ended up buying some nice S-K combos after that job...they fit SO much better.

RE: the metal TOB vs plastic. I got the metal one, but I think the plastic one would have been fine. Lots of people said they have had success with it. Looking at how it operates, Plastic shouldn't be detrimental in any way, so if I were to do another one, I'd probably keep the plastic one.
 
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Thanks, I've been building race cars, hot rods, 4x4's my whole life. The mangler is the first standard I've ever had. I figure with some you tube and a weekend full of beers and BBQ, I could probably tackle it.

Beers after of course.
 
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That is indeed the best clutch kit for our TJs, no doubt. Personally, I always get rid of the plastic throw out bearings on any clutch kit, so yes, I would get the metal one for sure.

Here's some useful tips from @RaymondT
How to install a clutch

Here's a very useful YouTube video on the process as well:

And of course, if you don't have a FSM, be sure to download one for free, as it outlines the entire procedure:
Jeep Wrangler TJ Factory Service Manuals (FSM) & Technical Documentation

As others have said, it's not that difficult of a procedure, just time consuming and tedious. Take your time and make sure everything is done right and torqued to spec.
 
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Just changed mine. It is straight forward, nothing weird pops up. Save yourself some headache and either rent or buy a trans jack. I pulled mine with a floor jack, pain in the ass, but installed with the $100 Harbor Freight trans jack. Much better, not something I'd want for full time work but so much better than a floor jack. Some long extensions, like 24+" for the upper bell housing bolts will make life simpler. Some wobble joints are helpful as well.

The plastic tob is fine. The plastic portion is virtually a non wear area. Clean up the flywheel with some 220 grit sandpaper. Make sure to use a sealer/locker on the flywheel bolts. I also did a rear main seal and oil pan gasket since I was there.
 
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