Checking front cv joints

[CMTJ]

I have a bit of a clunk sound when I turn almost full out of front pass side wheel. Swaybar links are brand new and all front end parts tight. Now to check, do I just jack up that wheel and put a bar underneath the tire and pull up to see if the tire and wheel move?? I am quite confident that is the problem and if you all agree, is there a write up on how to replace?

 

[Rob5589]

The front has a one piece wheel bearing and u joints, no cv joint. Jack it up and see if there is any movement in the wheel. Also look for rust from behind the wheel bearing. You can see this with it jacked up and the wheel turned to the left or right. If they are indeed bad, you will need a 36 mm socket to remove the nut. You can check the u joints by rolling the wheel back and forth slightly to see if there is any movement of the joint. Also look for rusty dust around the cap seals. If you are replacing one, go ahead and do the other as it is probably not far behind in failing.

 

[Jerry Bransford]

It sounds like you're describing an axle shaft u-joint. The only CV joint that the factory installs is at the rear of the front driveshaft.

If you do end up having a bad u-joint, the replacement u-joint you should install is a Spicer 5-760x which is a stronger/more durable direct replacement for the Spicer 5-297x the factory installed.

Stu's Offroad has a good writeup at http://www.stu-offroad.com/axle/ujoint1/u-joint-1.htm for the u-joint itself and http://www.stu-offroad.com/axle/Dana 30/axle-1.htm for how to remove the axle shaft.

So far as a 'clunk', that could be a bad u-joint or it could be a bad ball joint. Jacking up the front-end and levering the front tire to see if the knuckle moves the ball joint around would confirm a bad ball joint. Rotating the wheel back & forth while watching the u-joint would likely show a bad u-joint. And a bad u-joint can also be indicated by just its physical condition like if there's rust coming out of it.

 

[The Real Lxxtsy]

Going with u joints are shot. I have to replace mine soon.

 

[Rob5589]

Here's what I just installed,
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00QAURWQO/?tag=wranglerorg-20

 

[CMTJ]

CAn I buy the whole axle shaft thats ready to bolt right in?? I'm not about pressing u-joints and all that stuff.

 

[Jerry Bransford]

CAn I buy the whole axle shaft thats ready to bolt right in?? I'm not about pressing u-joints and all that stuff.

That'd be very expensive, any 4x4 shop can replace your front u-joints for far less than it'd cost to buy shafts with the u-joints already installed.

IF your u-joints are bad that is. Determine/confirm that before replacing them. And if one is bad, the other can't be far behind... I'd have them both replaced if it's confirmed at least one is for sure bad.

 

[CMTJ]

Ok sounds good, Thanks Jerry

 

[Rob5589]

If you aren't able to diy, pull them and take them to a reputable shop to change them. It will be far cheaper than taking in the vehicle and probably faster as well.

 

[CMTJ]

If you aren't able to diy, pull them and take them to a reputable shop to change them. It will be far cheaper than taking in the vehicle and probably faster as well.

Very good point, thanks

 

[CMTJ]

Ok I went under and shook both u joints at the axle and they both have play in them so I am going to go with the Spicer 5-760x u joints and just rent one of the presses from the auto parts store and tackle the job. Guess I will give my self a whole day to do it. Anything else I should look for?? I read all the write ups and seems pretty easy. Seals seem fine with no wetness any where.

 

[Jerry Bransford]

Ok I went under and shook both u joints at the axle and they both have play in them so I am going to go with the Spicer 5-760x u joints and just rent one of the presses from the auto parts store and tackle the job. Guess I will give my self a whole day to do it. Anything else I should look for?? I read all the write ups and seems pretty easy. Seals seem fine with no wetness any where.

Good! Once you get them seated like Stu's directions help guide you on, the new u-joints will likely be binding just a tad. That is normal if you seated the bearing cap a shade too deep.

It's easy to fix using nothing but a big hammer and a little inertia. With the BFH, smack the yoke holding the u-joint solidly (hard) a few times. That will force the bearing cap back outward against the clip.

Also, the amount of grease under each bearing cap is a fairly precise amount. Be sure to replace the bearing caps back on the same locations they came from.