Clutch job tomorrow
- Thread starter Kenneth G Zinis
- Start date
The only tip I have is to be sure to not have the flywheel resurfaced or machined. That may be a normal part of most clutch jobs but it should not be done with the TJ's flywheel which has a mild dome shape on its surface that machining would remove. If there's any glazing on it only use a mild grade of sandpaper or emory cloth to clean it off. My previous TJ's flywheel had 162k miles on it and it was still in excellent condition when I replaced its clutch.
06TJ35's
TJ Addict
Rent a pilot bearing puller from your local auto parts. Others will say you can pack in grease or bread then use an extension but I found with the right tool it’s easier. I had a extension get stuck one day and never again will I do that method.
Couple extension and a universal socket to get to the upper transmission bolts
Couple extension and a universal socket to get to the upper transmission bolts
Paul Land
TJ Enthusiast
Replace Rear Seal while engine is open.
Use the correct size e-torx socket for the two top bellhousing bolts...and I would suggest removing them first. I ended up drilling my passenger side off and it was a mess.
I also had issues getting the skid plate off...all but one of the bolts was siezed. Be ready to replace the bolts and frame nutzerts.
Cable shifter upgrade at the same time IMHO is easier than dealing with the stock linkage.
Consider a SYE and driveshaft... you're already removing the transfer case.
-Mac
I also had issues getting the skid plate off...all but one of the bolts was siezed. Be ready to replace the bolts and frame nutzerts.
Cable shifter upgrade at the same time IMHO is easier than dealing with the stock linkage.
Consider a SYE and driveshaft... you're already removing the transfer case.
-Mac
ABSOLUTELY!!! You'll need an E-12 for the top bolt that holds the transmission to the engine bell housing. If you want to remove the transfer case, which is not required, it requires an E-10. Those E- things are extended torx bolts, don't try to remove them with pliers or 12-pt. sockets.
I haven't figured out where the E10 recommendation comes from. The transfer case is held to the transmission with standard 9/16" head nuts on every transfer case I've seen.
I like to remove the transfer case separately, I find the transmission much easier to manage that way. If you do that, the fluid will pour out of the back of the transmission so I'd recommend having a jug of redline or similar to fill it back up afterwards.
Disconnect battery before messing with the starter.
E12 for upper bellhousing bolts. Lower the transfer case down some and then you should be able to get at them with some long extensions no big deal.
Highly recommend making yourself some makeshift dowels out of long 7/16-14 bolts from the hardware store. The the heads off and angle grind slots into the end. Thread them into the 3:00 and 9:00 positions on engine, then you just get the transmission up there, slide it onto the bolts and it pretty much lines right up with no headache at all.
Overall pretty easy job, just take your time and don't force anything. I'm well aware the flywheel can be reused in many cases with some emery cloth sanding by hand but...personally I like to just replace it. It's not that expensive to get a decent Luk replacement.
Disconnect battery before messing with the starter.
E12 for upper bellhousing bolts. Lower the transfer case down some and then you should be able to get at them with some long extensions no big deal.
Highly recommend making yourself some makeshift dowels out of long 7/16-14 bolts from the hardware store. The the heads off and angle grind slots into the end. Thread them into the 3:00 and 9:00 positions on engine, then you just get the transmission up there, slide it onto the bolts and it pretty much lines right up with no headache at all.
Overall pretty easy job, just take your time and don't force anything. I'm well aware the flywheel can be reused in many cases with some emery cloth sanding by hand but...personally I like to just replace it. It's not that expensive to get a decent Luk replacement.
One of the bolts that held my 231 tcase to the transmission was an E-10. If they are all hex-head bolts the E-10 was replaced by someone.
And personally I would and did leave the transfer case bolted to the transmission during a clutch job. For me, doing it that way was easier and faster than unbolting the transfer case first.
They aren't bolts, they're studs and nuts on all 6 transfer case to transmission fasteners...see below. Been this way on every Jeep I've ever seen. I know for sure mine was stock and not replaced.
I think you're thinking of the 1 or 2 random 12 point bolts on the transfer case rear half that you remove for the SYE. I believe however many there are, they are 10mm 12 point. That long bolt in the picture is one example.
As for separating the two for a clutch job, I left them together once and I had trouble from the get go working by myself with a transmission jack. It was just a struggle to even get them to come out of the mounted to engine position. You already have to disconnect everything for the transfer case anyways, in my mind it was 6 extra nuts and some fluid. Practically no extra steps to drop off 60 lbs and awkward shape....just works better for me to split them. I had no struggles getting any part of it uninstalled or reinstalled by myself once they were split.
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Nope, I'm not thinking of any random 12 point bolts. E-10 it was and an E-10 torx bit adapter is what I needed to remove my 231 tcase when I swapped transmissions. Those who confuse them with a 12 point bolt head will just fuck them up.
Yes there are studs and nuts too but my 231 still also had a single E-10 bolt holding it to the transmission. I certainly wouldn't have purchased my E-10 3/8" adapter if it hadn't been needed, which I haven't needed since my transmission conversion.
09SPEEDTRIPLE
Member
I think the E-10 bolt is #8 that holds the 2 halves of the transfer case together
We did the bread way on mine - technically it worked, but it was a mess and pushed out more than just the pilot bearing. Since they're free to rent from most auto part stores I would definitely agree, just rent the puller.
I think you're confusing the trans-to-t-case bolts with the bolts that hold the t-case halves together. I've removed +10 NP231 t-cases from various Jeep transmissions ranging from 1991 to 2006 model years over the past 20 years and have never seen anything but nuts and studs...
^ this is correct
Definitely in the "just rent (or buy/keep) the puller" camp. Can pull the thing in about 3 seconds with it. One of these days when I rent one that is in nice shape I will just end up keeping it. For now I keep making trips to the store, because I don't need one all that often. Certainly the way to go though rather than using tricks, especially when the clutch job is planned and you're collecting parts and such beforehand anyways. It's just one more thing (well, 2 more with slide hammer) to add to the list for the job.
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