Replace Rear Seal while engine is open.Helping a bud change his clutch, '97, 4.0, tomorrow.
Any surprises to expect, any tips?
Thanks
ABSOLUTELY!!! You'll need an E-12 for the top bolt that holds the transmission to the engine bell housing. If you want to remove the transfer case, which is not required, it requires an E-10. Those E- things are extended torx bolts, don't try to remove them with pliers or 12-pt. sockets.Use the correct size e-torx socket for the two top bellhousing bolts...and I would suggest removing them first. I ended up drilling my passenger side off and it was a mess.
I haven't figured out where the E10 recommendation comes from. The transfer case is held to the transmission with standard 9/16" head nuts on every transfer case I've seen.ABSOLUTELY!!! You'll need an E-12 for the top bolt that holds the transmission to the engine bell housing. If you want to remove the transfer case, which is not required, it requires an E-10. Those E- things are extended torx bolts, don't try to remove them with pliers or 12-pt. sockets.
One of the bolts that held my 231 tcase to the transmission was an E-10. If they are all hex-head bolts the E-10 was replaced by someone.I haven't figured out where the E10 recommendation comes from. The transfer case is held to the transmission with standard 9/16" head nuts on every transfer case I've seen.
They aren't bolts, they're studs and nuts on all 6 transfer case to transmission fasteners...see below. Been this way on every Jeep I've ever seen. I know for sure mine was stock and not replaced.One of the bolts that held my 231 tcase to the transmission was an E-10. If they are all hex-head bolts the E-10 was replaced by someone.
And personally I would and did leave the transfer case bolted to the transmission during a clutch job. For me, doing it that way was easier and faster than unbolting the transfer case first.
Nope, I'm not thinking of any random 12 point bolts. E-10 it was and an E-10 torx bit adapter is what I needed to remove my 231 tcase when I swapped transmissions. Those who confuse them with a 12 point bolt head will just fuck them up.They aren't bolts, they're studs and nuts on all 6 transfer case to transmission fasteners...see below. Been this way on every Jeep I've ever seen. I know for sure mine was stock and not replaced.
I think you're thinking of the 1 or 2 random 12 point bolts on the transfer case rear half that you remove for the SYE. I believe however many there are, they are 10mm 12 point. That long bolt in the picture is one example.
The FSM and parts manuals show what I have found to be true, but all righty.Nope, I'm not thinking of any random 12 point bolts. E-10 it was and an E-10 torx bit adapter is what I needed to remove my 231 tcase when I swapped transmissions.
We did the bread way on mine - technically it worked, but it was a mess and pushed out more than just the pilot bearing. Since they're free to rent from most auto part stores I would definitely agree, just rent the puller.Others will say you can pack in grease or bread then use an extension but I found with the right tool it’s easier.
Close, that one is a 10mm 12 point.I think the E-10 bolt is #8 that holds the 2 halves of the transfer case together
I think you're confusing the trans-to-t-case bolts with the bolts that hold the t-case halves together. I've removed +10 NP231 t-cases from various Jeep transmissions ranging from 1991 to 2006 model years over the past 20 years and have never seen anything but nuts and studs...One of the two top bolts that holds the tcase to the transmission is an E-10. If both are hex-head bolts the E-10 was replaced by someone.
And personally I would and did leave the transfer case bolted to the transmission during a clutch job. For me, doing it that way was easier and faster than unbolting the transfer case first.
^ this is correctClose, that one is a 10mm 12 point.
Definitely in the "just rent (or buy/keep) the puller" camp. Can pull the thing in about 3 seconds with it. One of these days when I rent one that is in nice shape I will just end up keeping it. For now I keep making trips to the store, because I don't need one all that often. Certainly the way to go though rather than using tricks, especially when the clutch job is planned and you're collecting parts and such beforehand anyways. It's just one more thing (well, 2 more with slide hammer) to add to the list for the job.We did the bread way on mine - technically it worked, but it was a mess and pushed out more than just the pilot bearing. Since they're free to rent from most auto part stores I would definitely agree, just rent the puller.
Thanks Jerry, good insight.The only tip I have is to be sure to not have the flywheel resurfaced or machined. That may be a normal part of most clutch jobs but it should not be done with the TJ's flywheel which has a mild dome shape on its surface that machining would remove. If there's any glazing on it only use a mild grade of sandpaper or emory cloth to clean it off. My previous TJ's flywheel had 162k miles on it and it was still in excellent condition when I replaced its clutch.