Clutch Problem

atlantatjowner

atlantatjowner

Member
Joined
Jun 25, 2018
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43
Location
Atlanta
2000 TJ 4.0

So this morning I was turning back into our neighborhood and I went to press in the clutch to downshift and out of nowhere hit resistance in the clutch. It would not let me fully push it in by about an inch. I am able to still push it in the amount it will let me and shift gears. I have no visible leaks. I checked where the pedal connects to the Cylinder rod and thats all fine. I don't see anything blocking it and it actually feels more mechanical then hydraulic. Fluid level is full as well. Clutch was replaced about 15000 miles ago and clutch was also inspected about 10,000 miles ago when we dropped a new engine in. It really feels like something inside the is blocking it from fully going in.

Does this sound just like a bad master/slave issue?
 
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You need to look under the dash and at the slave under the hood you could have had something freaky happen like that
 
CAJACK said:
are you sure there is not a pin or bolt coming loose that is hitting as you depress the clutch?
Click to expand...

I inspected and got underneath the dash and pushed the clutch in by hand and nothing is blocking it. I even removed the plastic clip that holds the rod to the clutch pedal and with that removed the clutch pedal moves freely. up and down to the floor
 
AndyG said:
You need to look under the dash and at the slave under the hood you could have had something freaky happen like that
Click to expand...
I inspected and got underneath the dash and pushed the clutch in by hand and nothing is blocking it. Cylinder looks fine under the hood as well. Had my son press the clutch and dont see anything funky.
 
IF the clutch pedal moves freely when disconnected from the clutch MC actuating rod and the fluid level is good then you will need to remove the starter to do a visual inside while pressing the clutch pedal to see if you can identify what is restricting the clutch movement.
Could be one of the clutch pressure plate fingers has a problem or the actuating arm pivot retaining clips may have an issue.
 
CharlesHS said:
IF the clutch pedal moves freely when disconnected from the clutch MC actuating rod and the fluid level is good then you will need to remove the starter to do a visual inside while pressing the clutch pedal to see if you can identify what is restricting the clutch movement.
Could be one of the clutch pressure plate fingers has a problem or the actuating arm pivot retaining clips may have an issue.
Click to expand...

So you dont think this sounds like anything to do with the Master/Slave?
 
atlantatjowner said:
So you dont think this sounds like anything to do with the Master/Slave?
Click to expand...

atlantatjowner said:
2000 TJ 4.0

So this morning I was turning back into our neighborhood and I went to press in the clutch to downshift and out of nowhere hit resistance in the clutch. It would not let me fully push it in by about an inch. I am able to still push it in the amount it will let me and shift gears. I have no visible leaks. I checked where the pedal connects to the Cylinder rod and thats all fine. I don't see anything blocking it and it actually feels more mechanical then hydraulic. Fluid level is full as well. Clutch was replaced about 15000 miles ago and clutch was also inspected about 10,000 miles ago when we dropped a new engine in. It really feels like something inside the is blocking it from fully going in.

Does this sound just like a bad master/slave issue?
Click to expand...
When you push the pedal inward is it very easy to push (with no resistance) and then the last inch or so there is resistance allowing you to shift ?
IF that is what is occurring then... the hydraulic MC and slave are your problem.
I had that exact problem a couple months ago and the hydraulic MC and slave were the problem.

IF there is continual resistance while pushing the pedal and you cant push the pedal in the last few inches you normally could... then there is a problem with the pressure plate or something in that area.
 
CharlesHS said:
When you push the pedal inward is it very easy to push (with no resistance) and then the last inch or so there is resistance allowing you to shift ?
IF that is what is occurring then... the hydraulic MC and slave are your problem.
I had that exact problem a couple months ago and the hydraulic MC and slave were the problem.

IF there is continual resistance while pushing the pedal and you cant push the pedal in the last few inches you normally could... then there is a problem with the pressure plate or something in that area.
Click to expand...
the resistance is only in the last inch. It moves perfectly fine till then and it goes in just enough right now to shift the gears
 
Then it's the clutch MC and slave...

This should be the part you need: 52107652AC

The factory part will be more expensive than the No Names, but you get what you pay for...
The OEM Mopar part I installed was made in Mexico.
 
CharlesHS said:
Then it's the clutch MC and slave...

This should be the part you need: 52107652AC

The factory part will be more expensive than the No Names, but you get what you pay for...
The OEM Mopar part I installed was made in Mexico.
Click to expand...

unfortunately I think this is going to be something with the clutch inside the bell. I pulled the slave cylinder from the trans and the fork that has the dimple at the end that the rod pushes into is just hanging there like its limp. it shouldn't do that right? Does it sound like a clip has broken or something that holds that fork in place?
 
The fork is supported on the passenger side by a stud and a small clip to hold the fork to the stud.
 
Jezza said:
The fork is supported on the passenger side by a stud and a small clip to hold the fork to the stud.
Click to expand...

So that clip has probably broke and the trans needs to be dropped to fix it right? The fork seems like its still attached but its just dangling there and doesnt feel like any spring tension at all
 
Last edited:
The trans probably needs to come out. It sounds like you already checked out all the easy stuff. I would recommend replacing the stud, clip and fork everytime the clutch is replaced.
 
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Jezza said:
The trans probably needs to come out. It sounds like you already checked out all the easy stuff. I would recommend replacing the stud, clip and fork everytime the clutch is replaced.
Click to expand...
At the very least I would inspect the pivot stud clip and the pivot stud for excessive wear; the clip for the TOB is usually included in most kits.
 
I just did a clutch on mine about a month ago. The fork, stud and clip were around $30. Cheap insurance that you shouldn't have to pull it apart until the clutch needs to be done again.
 
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atlantatjowner said:
So you dont think this sounds like anything to do with the Master/Slave?
Click to expand...
Anything is possible...
Take slave off and push clutch in. Measure it.

With slave out of the bell does the clutch pedal go to the floor?
If not...then obviously the slave is to blame.
If it does...can you very easily push it back an inch or so with nary any force.
Again slave is to blame.

If the pedal hits the floor with slave out...and you can't easily push the rod back in...
You've got an internal issue.

Good luck
 
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