Codes for CPS and CMS: do I replace both?

[TJonfire]

I have P0341, P1391, PO351
01 TJ 4.0 Auto

I put an aftermarket CPS in and it ran terrible with a lot of white exhaust. Put the old CPS back in and ran wayyy better, but still struggled to idle and eventually cut out, no no start only crank. It may go again.

Do I change the CMP and CPS. I have found a Mopar CMP and can get the Mopar CPS still (on back order).

I did delete SKIM, which seemed to solve the run 3 seconds and stall, now when id does start, it will run for longer.

Thoughts?

 

[TJonfire]

so I put the new CMP in, it started right away and ran the best it has for 20 minutes. Idled well...my kid and I were happy and about to take it for a rip, for the first time (he is only 13 and was pumped). I wanted to be safe so wanted to shut it down and back on a few times to prove we were good to go and not get into a shut down somewhere on the road...so we shut it off, went to start again and crank only. Cleaned off all grounds and started it again 30 minutes later, and she fired right up, ran great. Shut it off and same thing...no start. Throwing code now P1391 and P0353.
I've:
- swapped CPS with off brand, which sucked, only to put back the original one
- deleted skim function and taken out module
- swapped CMP with mopar replacement
- cleaned all grounds
- confirmed all relays and fuses are good

the lead to the CPS has a small nick in the wire, where I can see bare copper. It is right next to the connector, so no room to splice a new wire in.

My thoughts on potential problems are:
- problem with wire from CPS or CMP to the PCM
- bad CPS
- bad PCM
- bad ignition coil pack

Any thoughts?

 

[tworley]

P0353(M) Ignition Coil # 3 Primary Circuit Peak primary circuit current not achieved with maximum dwell time.

P1391(M) Intermittent Loss of CMP or CKP Loss of the Cam Position Sensor or Crank Position sensor has occurred.

The knick you found is a good place to start since it is likely shorting which is disrupting spark, If the CAM sensor and CPS sensor are not in sync with each other, then you're not going to get spark.

Also to add--you could snip the wires as close to the plug as possible and put in new pins, with a new pigtail end (or find a new CPS sensor).
https://www.bmotorsports.com/shop/index.php/cPath/109?osCsid=9r3g9fnplb2562j1cdnbl6vep7

 

[TJonfire]

P0353(M) Ignition Coil # 3 Primary Circuit Peak primary circuit current not achieved with maximum dwell time.

P1391(M) Intermittent Loss of CMP or CKP Loss of the Cam Position Sensor or Crank Position sensor has occurred.

The knick you found is a good place to start since it is likely shorting which is disrupting spark, If the CAM sensor and CPS sensor are not in sync with each other, then you're not going to get spark.

Also to add--you could snip the wires as close to the plug as possible and put in new pins, with a new pigtail end (or find a new CPS sensor).
[URL]https://www.bmotorsports.com/shop/index.php/cPath/109?osCsid=9r3g9fnplb2562j1cdnbl6vep7[/URL]

Ok. So how do I put in new pins? Am I just looking for one of these connector kits? Do I need to solder or are they just crimp?
Thanks, for the help!

 

[tworley]

https://www.bmotorsports.com/shop/a...y=0&search_in_description=1&keywords=terminal
I dont know off the top of my head what size the wiring is, you'd have to research it. Crimping is preferred for automotive work. Delcity is another resource for pigtails, terminals and wiring. A bit $$ though.

 

[TJonfire]

Update. I replaced that connector which had two wires with showing copper, changed the ignition

[URL]https://www.bmotorsports.com/s...y=0&search_in_description=1&keywords=terminal[/URL]

I dont know off the top of my head what size the wiring is, you'd have to research it. Crimping is preferred for automotive work. Delcity is another resource for pigtails, terminals and wiring. A bit $$ though.

update: so I replaced that damaged connector, that had a split and frayed (black blue), and nicked wire (grey), and the orange had a small nick in it but not sure if I could see copper. Either way, I was certain that once I replaced this, I would be rocking, as this had to be causing a dead short.....Nope. I also did new plugs gapped properly and got a coil rail from a wrecker and put that in. SAME CODES show up 0353 and 1391. It starts, runs smooth for a few minutes (sometimes longer than others). Then either cuts out, or when I shut it off....crank no start.

so now I've changed:
- CMP
- deleted SKIM
- Coil rail
- plugs
- all grounds
- New CPS connection
- CMP and CPS get 5v (I will double check this)
- Swapped CPS with aftermarket one, ran rough, put old one back in, runs smooth

SOOOO, now (as far as I know) my issue is either...
1) needs a new Mopar CPS
2) has wiring issue from CPS, Coil, or CMP to PCM
3) has PCM issue

WHAT WOULD YOU DO NEXT?

 

[TJonfire]

Is it time to send my PCM out to @Wranglerfix ??

 

[TJonfire]

Is it time to send my PCM out to @Wranglerfix ??

@macleanflood are you suggesting 'Yes' its time to get in touch with him as It sounds like the PCM might be the problem? Thanks in advance for any opinions

 

[macleanflood]

Yup! Send it! Or at least make a phone call and make a plan!

-Mac

 

[TJonfire]

If I can't get a mopar CPS (01 TJ, 4.0 auto), what is the best aftermarket one?

 

[peoplethatcant]

SOOOO, now (as far as I know) my issue is either...
1) needs a new Mopar CPS
2) has wiring issue from CPS, Coil, or CMP to PCM
3) has PCM issue

WHAT WOULD YOU DO NEXT?

If the PCM tests good with Wranglerfix, I would look for more trouble wires. Specifically a sporadic short between the ignition coil 3 control wire (which allows the primary ignition current to flow back to the PCM at the right time) and the Crank Sensor or Cam Sensor wires. This could cause a voltage spike or drop in the sensor circuits or the coil 3 circuit causing coil 3 to not reach proper current levels and screw up the sensor signals. As well (if your 01 is like my 04) all these wires meet up in the loom right next to the coil pack connector and dipstick. That area of the wiring loom likes to get soaked in oil from filter changes etc and rub on the dispstick support, both of which can wreak havoc on the wires potentially.

You could also maybe get lucky trying to test resistance between the coil 3 wires and the cam and crank sensor wires looking for a short, but if it's not a dead short you likely wouldn't get confirmation without a labscope.

A bit of a long shot, but if you found bad wires already there might be more, and it would explain both codes nicely.

As to your last question, I have used Napa for my crank and cam sensor without issue, but I will defer to more experienced Jeepers on this one, as it's a one off, so not worth much.

 

[TJonfire]

So I got a BWD CPS (from PartSource here in Canada) and installed it...VROOOOOM, started instantly and my son and I took it for a ride!!! He was soooo jacked. So was I to be honest. I was told that BWD was the company that actually made the original MOPAR part, so that got me thinking it was a good choice. Either way, it is running. So now, we begin disassembly of the rust bucket to bring it back to life.