Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ radiator

Codes refuse to clear

G

Ghost74

Member
Original poster
Joined
Oct 30, 2020
Messages
25
Location
North Georgia
I have an '06 Rubi just under 100k miles. Got a P0700 and P1775 a while back, cleared them and didn't get a chance to get the jeep out til this weekend. After about an hour and a half of driving, up come the same codes. limp mode, no first gear... Ok, get it home check and try to clear the codes. Will not clear... so maybe heat related, wait til this afternoon, mid 40's.. crank it up and codes will not clear. tried several times, turned off and then back on and refused to clear...
I'm thinking "maybe" fried PCM but open to suggestions...
good fluid, clean and full. No driveline modifications.. yet.. lol..
thanks
 
  • Like
Reactions: Wranglerfix
P0700 the transmission control circuit is malfunctioning....
P1775 is set if three unsuccessful attempts are made to get into 1st gear in one given ignition start”
Could be the TCM part of the ECU...
I would disconnect the 4th 32 pin harness connector from the ECU and check for oxidation and make sure it is firmly refastened.

Then attempt to reset the DTCs...
 
@Ghost74 How old is the battery?

0700 is a generic code saying something is awry on the transmission side of the pcm.

p-1775 codes are:

Low battery voltage
  • Faulty LR Pressure Switch
  • LR Pressure Switch harness is open or shorted
  • LR Pressure Switch circuit poor electrical connection
  • Faulty Transaxle Solenoid Pack

    Have you checked all of the above?
    Any other symptoms like hard shift when cold, erratic transmission temperatures, faulty o2 sensor codes?
 
Wranglerfix said:
@Ghost74 How old is the battery?

0700 is a generic code saying something is awry on the transmission side of the pcm.

p-1775 codes are:

Low battery voltage
  • Faulty LR Pressure Switch
  • LR Pressure Switch harness is open or shorted
  • LR Pressure Switch circuit poor electrical connection
  • Faulty Transaxle Solenoid Pack

    Have you checked all of the above?
    Any other symptoms like hard shift when cold, erratic transmission temperatures, faulty o2 sensor codes?
Click to expand...
Battery and Alternator are both new in the last 60 days.
 
CharlesHS said:
P0700 the transmission control circuit is malfunctioning....
P1775 is set if three unsuccessful attempts are made to get into 1st gear in one given ignition start”
Could be the TCM part of the ECU...
I would disconnect the 4th 32 pin harness connector from the ECU and check for oxidation and make sure it is firmly refastened.

Then attempt to reset the DTCs...
Click to expand...
I'll check later this afternoon after work.. thanks for the direction..
 
Ghost74 said:
Battery and Alternator are both new in the last 60 days.
Click to expand...
How are the connections? Many people think they're good yet you can twist them with hand force.

Moreover don't assume just because something was replaced in the last xyz days it's good to go. The batt/alternator might be good alright but you need to verify that by testing them.

I would focus first on the connections before anything else.
 
Rubicon88 said:
How are the connections? Many people think they're good yet you can twist them with hand force.

Moreover don't assume just because something was replaced in the last xyz days it's good to go. The batt/alternator might be good alright but you need to verify that by testing them.

I would focus first on the connections before anything else.
Click to expand...
all connections are tight, all work done myself. Had both tested after install at local AutoZone much to the dismay of the person who actually had to bring the machine out and hook it up.. lol
 
This is a very common harness failure.

BA3ACAE9-F060-4157-9601-90C3D10A0155.jpeg
 
CharlesHS said:
Where is that harness located?
Is that the harness that is routed around the back right side of the valve cover that rubs on the head stud ?
Click to expand...
Yes it is. I would pay particular attention to the black plug which control the tcm.

Take all of the connectors off and spray (liberally 🤯) with contact cleaner then inspect for bent pins and corrosion. Do not use dielectric grease as it gets chalky over time creating further connection issues.

I can also test the pcm in my Jeep if you want to mail it into me. I videotape the tests as we do them.
 
  • Like
Reactions: CharlesHS
Finally got a chance to get back to the TJ... no wires rubbed or broken, pulled connector and sprayed "generously" with contact cleaner.. rechecked alternator and battery connections...
found broken battery terminal..still looked good but was loose. appeared to be casting defect, there was a bubble in the lead for the terminal and it gave way at some point.. i replaced it and verified good fit.. Codes are now gone... will try to do more this week.. work for in IT for a hospital system so it's been hectic to say the least... need about and hour and a half to make the same drive i did when it lit up for me..
thanks for all the pointers folks...
 
  • Like
Reactions: Fouledplugs and Wranglerfix
Got out today for about an hour or hour and a half in traffic... all good on this run, no issues and no codes... will try a longer drive when i get a chance.
Thanks all for the advice..
 
  • Like
Reactions: Wranglerfix
Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ radiator
Top Bottom
Back