Cold Case Radiators

Is there even an effective stand alone trans cooler available for under $100?
 
Nothing in life is ever free.. It was merely a suggestion, as to what I would do if I had an automatic. In tank coolers inherently are self defeating, Most of the actual cooling done in that type of setup is done in the lines to and from the cooler when you are at operating temp. (ever wonder how the Trans temp is cooler than the coolant temp?) It would serve 2 purposes, 1. better cooling for the transmission which as we all know is a huge benefit to the life of an automatic, otherwise why would you have done it? 2. the roughly $120 difference in price could be put towards the external trans cooler.
You missed the primary purpose and reason the factory transmission cooler is in the radiator in the first place... to help the transmission warm up and stabilize its temperature more quickly when in uber-cold conditions like you get there in Idaho.

Like the engine running better when it is helped to warm up more quickly due to the use of a thermostat to close off part of the cooling system when the engine is cold, it's the same with an automatic transmission. It runs better when it's not cold any longer than it has to be.
 
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You missed the third and primary purpose/reason the factory transmission cooler is in the radiator in the first place... to help the transmission warm up and stabilize its temperature more quickly when in uber-cold conditions like you get there in Idaho.
Good point!! I take it your cooler is plumbed in series with the OE cooler in the radiator?
That is one reason I kind of regret putting an aluminium pan on my work truck, I can't attach a magnetic pan heater... Diesels don't warm up very fast... so consequently the trans takes about 2 miles of driving before it gets warm enough to allow TC lock up and 6th gear shift (55 degrees)
 
Regardless if the trans fluid is run through the radiator or a stand alone, it's ridiculous that a simple tube adds so much to the price of a mopar radiator. For that price difference it's getting close to the cost of the performance aftermarket all aluminum radiators.

My oem radiator crapped out around 40K, the cheap copper radiator I replaced it with is still good 60K miles later. I want a new radiator since I just rebuilt my motor and refreshed everything else, so I'm with mrblaine, I'd really like to know if the cold case or any other all aluminum radiator is a decent alternative.
 
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Is there even an effective stand alone trans cooler available for under $100?

Just over $100. I think it was actually just under when I bought it 2 years ago. I don‘t know if you meant to use without the OEM radiator cooler,or bypassing the radiator, but I plumbed mine in with the radiator. Installed after the radiator.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CIIDZE/?tag=wranglerorg-20

https://wranglertjforum.com/threads...4-supercooler-in-your-jeep-wrangler-tj.15329/
 
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I'm interested in this as well, since I'll be needing a rad soon. The 1.25" tubes are probably overkill, a pair of 1" would suffice and save a half inch of space.

Curious why you don't like wizard or northern radiators, mrblaine? (I have no personal experience with them).
Both required grill removal. The Wizard died a horrible death. It leaked from the top. There was a bit of a gel like substance in the lower outlet. They blamed the leak on that and denied a warranty claim on a nearly new radiator. We flushed the system before we swapped it in. I don't know what the gel was or where it was from. I am 99.99% certain that it can't make the tube rows above it leak though. It was not clogging the radiator nor were there any blockes tubes we could see.
mark dumais radiator.jpg


The Northern has had no leaking issues. It was not made for a TJ with AC, we had to rework the mounts and pull the grill to install it. I won't do that again.
 
Both required grill removal. The Wizard died a horrible death. It leaked from the top. There was a bit of a gel like substance in the lower outlet. They blamed the leak on that and denied a warranty claim on a nearly new radiator. We flushed the system before we swapped it in. I don't know what the gel was or where it was from. I am 99.99% certain that it can't make the tube rows above it leak though. It was not clogging the radiator nor were there any blockes tubes we could see.

The Northern has had no leaking issues. It was not made for a TJ with AC, we had to rework the mounts and pull the grill to install it. I won't do that again.
Seems TJ are prone to radiator leaks regardless of what brand we use. Could it have anything to do with the radiator being solidly bolted to the grill instead of suspended in rubber mounts like most vehicles? If the grill twists and flexes slightly between the fenders and gets vibrations from the hood on the hwy I could see that causing seams and tubes to eventually split. My next radiator I'm going to look hard into designing a simple rubber isolator, maybe repurposing an easily sourced sleeved rubber grommet from some other application.
 
Seems TJ are prone to radiator leaks regardless of what brand we use. Could it have anything to do with the radiator being solidly bolted to the grill instead of suspended in rubber mounts like most vehicles? If the grill twists and flexes slightly between the fenders and gets vibrations from the hood on the hwy I could see that causing seams and tubes to eventually split. My next radiator I'm going to look hard into designing a simple rubber isolator, maybe repurposing an easily sourced sleeved rubber grommet from some other application.
Grill flex is a common misconception. There are 3 things that tell that does not happen.
1- pull the grill out of a rig and try to flex it any direction. It does not do any of that. It is probably the single strongest structure on the rig.
2- The factory radiator is held to the mounting flanges on each side with 4 #8 machine screws with captive heads slid into slots cast into the plastic tanks. If there were any flex in any direction that was enough to cause a leak, the screws would rip out of the little slots first.
3- The mounting flanges are fairly large and not very stout. They act as a less than rigid mounting system for any front to back loads that the radiator might see which would then rip the little bolt heads out of the plastic slots.
 
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I’m at a fork in the road.
I’m on a road trip. Radiator sprung a leak. Napa replacement got me back up and running but left me disenchanted to say the least. I’ve found one OEM unit in my state, many hours away. 400 dollars. There are 7 others nationwide that I’ve located.
The cold case is about the same price and readily available.
First world problems, I know.
This is the kind of thing that makes me want to manufacture my own. Seriously. Aerospace and aviation background gives me the taste for quality that’s lacking in much of the automotive world.
If I or we could strike a balance between the two, and provide decent products, we’ll, I’d pay for that.
 
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I’m at a fork in the road.
I’m on a road trip. Radiator sprung a leak. Napa replacement got me back up and running but left me disenchanted to say the least. I’ve found one OEM unit in my state, many hours away. 400 dollars. There are 7 others nationwide that I’ve located.
The cold case is about the same price and readily available.
First world problems, I know.
This is the kind of thing that makes me want to manufacture my own. Seriously. Aerospace and aviation background gives me the taste for quality that’s lacking in much of the automotive world.
If I or we could strike a balance between the two, and provide decent products, we’ll, I’d pay for that.

I share a near identical mindset. When an OEM Mopar gets over 250 bucks, there has to be room for a copy that is the same in performance.
 
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I share a near identical mindset. When an OEM Mopar gets over 250 bucks, there has to be room for a copy that is the same in performance.

I suspect someone had dissected the OEM unit? Can it be that hard to reverse engineer?
Airplane parts are expensive on a level that most people can’t comprehend. It’s not because of manufacturing costs, it’s because of certification costs.

If we can build quality parts, and stay under the OEM cost while exceeding standards, there will be happy people.
 
If we can build quality parts, and stay under the OEM cost while exceeding standards, there will be happy people.
Seems easy, I wish it were. I've got folks who could get an order for a 100 radiators placed. I suspect the minimum run will be closer to 500. That is a significant investment and you then have to depend on the word of mouth from forums like this to spread the word that they are better than what you get on Rock Auto.
 
Seems easy, I wish it were. I've got folks who could get an order for a 100 radiators placed. I suspect the minimum run will be closer to 500. That is a significant investment and you then have to depend on the word of mouth from forums like this to spread the word that they are better than what you get on Rock Auto.

Feel free to PM me if interested. I’ll go half.