You missed the primary purpose and reason the factory transmission cooler is in the radiator in the first place... to help the transmission warm up and stabilize its temperature more quickly when in uber-cold conditions like you get there in Idaho.Nothing in life is ever free.. It was merely a suggestion, as to what I would do if I had an automatic. In tank coolers inherently are self defeating, Most of the actual cooling done in that type of setup is done in the lines to and from the cooler when you are at operating temp. (ever wonder how the Trans temp is cooler than the coolant temp?) It would serve 2 purposes, 1. better cooling for the transmission which as we all know is a huge benefit to the life of an automatic, otherwise why would you have done it? 2. the roughly $120 difference in price could be put towards the external trans cooler.
Good point!! I take it your cooler is plumbed in series with the OE cooler in the radiator?You missed the third and primary purpose/reason the factory transmission cooler is in the radiator in the first place... to help the transmission warm up and stabilize its temperature more quickly when in uber-cold conditions like you get there in Idaho.
Yes it is.Good point!! I take it your cooler is plumbed in series with the OE cooler in the radiator?
Universal coolers but not full kits with all the trimmings for a TJIs there even an effective stand alone trans cooler available for under $100?
Is there even an effective stand alone trans cooler available for under $100?
Both required grill removal. The Wizard died a horrible death. It leaked from the top. There was a bit of a gel like substance in the lower outlet. They blamed the leak on that and denied a warranty claim on a nearly new radiator. We flushed the system before we swapped it in. I don't know what the gel was or where it was from. I am 99.99% certain that it can't make the tube rows above it leak though. It was not clogging the radiator nor were there any blockes tubes we could see.I'm interested in this as well, since I'll be needing a rad soon. The 1.25" tubes are probably overkill, a pair of 1" would suffice and save a half inch of space.
Curious why you don't like wizard or northern radiators, mrblaine? (I have no personal experience with them).
Not wrong but I also vehemently disagree with having to pull a grill to do radiator work or even just pull the fan clutch.I beleive it is due to the necessity of removing the grill. He doesn’t want his customers to have to pay for that much labor if unneeded - correct me if I’m wrong Blaine.
That is tripping over dollars to pick up dimes.That being the case I would explore the options of an external trans cooler...
Seems TJ are prone to radiator leaks regardless of what brand we use. Could it have anything to do with the radiator being solidly bolted to the grill instead of suspended in rubber mounts like most vehicles? If the grill twists and flexes slightly between the fenders and gets vibrations from the hood on the hwy I could see that causing seams and tubes to eventually split. My next radiator I'm going to look hard into designing a simple rubber isolator, maybe repurposing an easily sourced sleeved rubber grommet from some other application.Both required grill removal. The Wizard died a horrible death. It leaked from the top. There was a bit of a gel like substance in the lower outlet. They blamed the leak on that and denied a warranty claim on a nearly new radiator. We flushed the system before we swapped it in. I don't know what the gel was or where it was from. I am 99.99% certain that it can't make the tube rows above it leak though. It was not clogging the radiator nor were there any blockes tubes we could see.
The Northern has had no leaking issues. It was not made for a TJ with AC, we had to rework the mounts and pull the grill to install it. I won't do that again.
Grill flex is a common misconception. There are 3 things that tell that does not happen.Seems TJ are prone to radiator leaks regardless of what brand we use. Could it have anything to do with the radiator being solidly bolted to the grill instead of suspended in rubber mounts like most vehicles? If the grill twists and flexes slightly between the fenders and gets vibrations from the hood on the hwy I could see that causing seams and tubes to eventually split. My next radiator I'm going to look hard into designing a simple rubber isolator, maybe repurposing an easily sourced sleeved rubber grommet from some other application.
I’m at a fork in the road.
I’m on a road trip. Radiator sprung a leak. Napa replacement got me back up and running but left me disenchanted to say the least. I’ve found one OEM unit in my state, many hours away. 400 dollars. There are 7 others nationwide that I’ve located.
The cold case is about the same price and readily available.
First world problems, I know.
This is the kind of thing that makes me want to manufacture my own. Seriously. Aerospace and aviation background gives me the taste for quality that’s lacking in much of the automotive world.
If I or we could strike a balance between the two, and provide decent products, we’ll, I’d pay for that.
I share a near identical mindset. When an OEM Mopar gets over 250 bucks, there has to be room for a copy that is the same in performance.
Seems easy, I wish it were. I've got folks who could get an order for a 100 radiators placed. I suspect the minimum run will be closer to 500. That is a significant investment and you then have to depend on the word of mouth from forums like this to spread the word that they are better than what you get on Rock Auto.If we can build quality parts, and stay under the OEM cost while exceeding standards, there will be happy people.
Seems easy, I wish it were. I've got folks who could get an order for a 100 radiators placed. I suspect the minimum run will be closer to 500. That is a significant investment and you then have to depend on the word of mouth from forums like this to spread the word that they are better than what you get on Rock Auto.