Considering going smaller: 7"/35s to 5"/33s

srimes

srimes

TJ Addict
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May 19, 2021
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Oregon
When I was shopping for my jeep I wanted something pretty mild: a good run-around-town convertible that can handle forest roads and mild trails. But I fell for this beast on 35s, 6" spring + 1" body lift.

It drives nice up to around 50 and then there's cyclical driveline vibes. The rid is rather stiff with the 12" Bilstein 5100s and short arms. Guessing I'll need shorter shocks if I go to 4" springs.

Wheels are 10" wide, so I'll probably want new 8" rims. Might keep the 10s and 35s for trail-duty.

It has a drop pitman and track bar bracket that's welded on. I HOPE they'll still fit with 4" springs.

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Or maybe I should do a rear stretch to get the driveshaft angle down. 9" should do it.
 
I vote 4" springs.Cut the track bar crap off and get rid of the drop pitman. Worst case scenario you weld a stock pitman bracket on if yours isn't hiding under all that plate
 
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Yeah I am with @Rickyd on this one. 4" springs + 1" BL is fine for 35" tires. Go to shorter springs and clean up the steering.
 
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I’d drop to 4” springs, then adjust the control arms to get your pinion angle nailed down, then measure for the correct length shocks. You’ll also want to get back to stock trackbar mount and get a stock pitman arm. The 35s don’t have to go though.
 
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Fyi, the pitman arm on a 2000 2wd s10 i just scrapped is the identical shape to my tj's if you need a cheap to free one. I haven't tried my spare zj steering in it to test the taper yet though. I saved the box because its the same saginaw PN as our jeeps.though i wouldn't be surprised if the valving is different.
 
Rickyd said:
Fyi, the pitman arm on a 2000 2wd s10 i just scrapped is the identical shape to my tj's if you need a cheap to free one. I haven't tried my spare zj steering in it to test the taper yet though. I saved the box because its the same saginaw PN as our jeeps.though i wouldn't be surprised if the valving is different.
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Thanks, but the drag link drop bracket is welded on and should still fit at 4" so I'm going to leave it as it is for now.
 
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Got the rears out. Was binding so I disconnected the track bar. Probably should have done the lower control arms instead as I'll have to do that to get the track bar back on.

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I also orders some prothane coil spring inserts. Not exactly sure how I'll mount the rears.
 
Hard to get much done during the week, but I got the shocks on to cycle the suspension and check for clearances. Didn't get far as the front track bar hits the diff cover with 3" of shock shaft showing. I'm sure it was happening before but with 6" lift it didn't come into play too often.

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Passenger side compresses all the way. Can see the axle is pushed forward a bit.
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I'll pull it back and see how it does. I fear the dropped track bar will hit the locker cable next. I really don't want this to snowball into a big project right now.
 
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LONGJP2 said:
Wait, nobody's going to mention the giant stump holding up his Jeep? :oops:
Probably a PNW thing.
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I was wondering when someone would comment on that! I only have 2 big jack stands, the little ones are good under the axle but not tall enough for the frame and full droop.

Rear springs ID is too big to locate the bumps, so I got 1.25 black pipe nipples welded to the pads to locate them.

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Haven't welded in years. Picked up this 110 stick welder off craigslist for something like $40 a while back. It actually worked pretty well. My welds were shit but that's my fault.

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Bit of a bitch getting the bumps inside the springs. Stretching them a bit with the farm jack and prying with a flat bar did the trick.
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The stock bumpstop cups will cut unto the poly, so I replaced them with the aluminum spacers that were on the front axle.
 
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