Control Arms Suspension Cycle & Bump-Stop

Are the Currie bumps just touching or are they mashing into each other? They will compress at least 5/8" past first contact. Meaning there should be about 5/8-3/4" of shaft showing at first contact on the bumps. Also, look at the back side of the upper bump stop. There is a recessed area that should be packed full of washers before being bolted on.
Picture was with them “mashed together enough to start lifting vehicle.

Where are you saying I could add washers on the upper bump stop?
 
Picture was with them “mashed together enough to start lifting vehicle.

Where are you saying I could add washers on the upper bump stop?
Inside the upper bump stop. Take it off and look inside. It will bolt up better if you fill it up with washers.

I also suspect that the shock is too long.
 
That is plenty centered, in fact I would push it as far forward as it can go and not have the axle hit the trackbar and steering on mine.
That’s good to hear. My driver side barely makes contact. This looks like a track bar adjustment correct?
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That’s good to hear. My driver side barely makes contact. This looks like a track bar adjustment correct?View attachment 205815View attachment 205816
Actually no adjustment at all. One of the big reason Currie does it's bumpstop like that it to allow contact from any direction unlike any other brand. As long as the axle is centered at ride height your trackbar is fine, that looks like plenty of contact. Make sure you check all this with a tire on next before springs go back on.
 
Actually no adjustment at all. One of the big reason Currie does it's bumpstop like that it to allow contact from any direction unlike any other brand. As long as the axle is centered at ride height your trackbar is fine, that looks like plenty of contact. Make sure you check all this with a tire on next before springs go back on.
The axle is centered. It would favor the driver side if I shifted it to center the bump contact
 
The axle is centered. It would favor the driver side if I shifted it to center the bump contact
Exactly, and having it centered at ride height is what's important. There is no real gain from shifting it over, just screws up ride height centering (which is critical for handling, steering, and tire wear)
 
I’m painstakingly slow at this but learning a lot. My in-laws came over this afternoon so I called it a day after checking both tires for rub issues.

Driver side rubbed a little on the sway bar link.
Passenger had no issues.

@jjvw I still am thinking my shocks are too long. At full bump I have over 4” before my tire makes contact with the fender. I currently have 32s w/ the Currie lift. I’ll confirm length of shock shaft at ride height once I get the springs back in. ...Or too small of tires, maybe a combo of both.
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I’m painstakingly slow at this but learning a lot. My in-laws came over this afternoon so I called it a day after checking both tires for rub issues.

Driver side rubbed a little on the sway bar link.
Passenger had no issues.

@jjvw I still am thinking my shocks are too long. At full bump I have over 4” before my tire makes contact with the fender. I currently have 32s w/ the Currie lift. I’ll confirm length of shock shaft at ride height once I get the springs back in. ...Or too small of tires, maybe a combo of both. View attachment 205874View attachment 205875
Yeah that’s just a mis match of lift and trie size. Throw a 35 on there and your bump would be just right. In reality it doesn’t hurt to have those tires with that lift, just high for that tire size.