Could use some help with shocks

You'll have some killer droop with those shocks. Just don't go chasing after your springs when they fall out, lol!
 
bobthetj03 said:
We are. So, make your fixes to the rear and live with the travel you have, and wait to bump up to 4" springs and 35's.

Or, outboard the rears, and do Blaine's mod to the front spring perches to get some more shock real estate. You many need to sell a kidney for this one.
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Ok so thinking this out, I truly believe getting 4" Currie springs will not do squat to help me here. My 3-3.5" of required bump stop is shock limiting so I need to question the shock:
  • When I was able to talk to Gerald, he personally confirmed that 3-4.5" fox shocks (Fox Shock Part Number: ‭980-24-643 127515)‬ is the correct part for the 3" Currie springs. So if I went to the 4" springs, I would need to upgrade to the 4-5" Fox shocks (Unconfirmed part number: 985-24-042). So upgrading to the 4" springs would do absolutely nothing to help my current shock situation unless I paid an additional $600.00 for ANOTHER set of fox shocks (http://shop.savvyoffroad.com/FOX-Fr...F2E5066F1A07FA095489213B2B9F3.p3plqscsfapp002).
  • When I ordered from Savvy I purchased the 3-4.5" shocks specifically because they were intended to be used with the 3" Currie Springs (http://shop.savvyoffroad.com/FOX-Fr...F2E5066F1A07FA095489213B2B9F3.p3plqscsfapp002).
  • As Blaine explained, removing the rear shock extenders will shorter the 4" of bump stop to a __ (Will figure this out later, but more than likely 3").
Where I can go now:
  • Sit tight and rock the ~3" of bump stop front and rear using the shocks exactly as designed and intended to be used as.
  • Remove & replace the shocks with a longer shock appropriate for the 3" coils.
  • Remove and replace the shocks/coils with 4" Currie springs/4-5" Fox Shocks (a very high gambling chance I may run into the same issue).
If I am way off course here please let know.

I wish when I first purchased the kit, I had done just a little bit more research and chosen the shocks myself instead of going for a kit. I probably would have bitten into the hype on the infamous RS5000X lol.

Edit: Do I have too long of a shock or too short of a shock? I would think its the latter but consistently confusing myself.
 
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Ranger_b0b said:
It's too long. Fully compressed, the shock is limiting your travel. Another way tho think of it, the body of the shock is too long...

I'd almost think about selling those, and getting something else, now that you can measure you actual setup.
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I appreciate you clearing things up, that makes it much easier to understand.
 
Focusing on the front, I have a question. How much suspension travel do you think you had when it was in stock trim? That would be with no added bump stops and jounce bumper removed.
 
I think this kits been designed for a 33" tyre with no body lift or a 35" tyre with a 1.25" body lift.

Personally, I'd be doing the Blaine mod to the rear shock mount and then looking at a better bump stop arrangement than the current hockey puck one then leaving it at that.

As you are looking at 35's I'd be fitting them up first and re-visiting the issues then.
 
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Daz7 said:
I think this kits been designed for a 33" tyre with no body lift or a 35" tyre with a 1.25" body lift.

Personally, I'd be doing the Blaine mod to the rear shock mount and then looking at a better bump stop arrangement than the current hockey puck one then leaving it at that.

As you are looking at 35's I'd be fitting them up first and re-visiting the issues then.
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The rear shock relocators will be coming off. School me on what is wrong with the hockey puck bumpstop setup?

I have 8k on my 33” tires, I really don’t want to visit 35” tires at this moment. I have a thing or two left before I drop another $1500 on tires.
 
JamesAndTheSahara said:
Mevotech, they have been fully pressed in, twice. They don’t stay in, so researching alternatives.
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The ball joint is fine, it's the holes that have been widened by your previous set of ball joints which were knurled as Blaine mentioned. You either have to dimple those ball joints or get another set of knurled joints like Moog.

I went through this before, going from knurled AlloyUSA to the factory Spicer, and had to dimple the housing so it could be pressed in securely.

https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/ball-joint-fix.2389/
 
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Ahoragi said:
The ball joint is fine, it's the holes that have been widened by your previous set of ball joints which were knurled as Blaine mentioned. You either have to dimple those ball joints or get another set of knurled joints like Moog.

I went through this before, going from knurled AlloyUSA to the factory Spicer, and had to dimple the housing so it could be pressed in securely.

https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/ball-joint-fix.2389/
Click to expand...
Also on my to-do list.
 
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