Critique my build plan

Thunder Mass

TJ Enthusiast
Supporting Member
Joined
Sep 16, 2018
Messages
170
Location
Washington
Alright, looks like it's gonna be happening soon. I've got a list of everything that I plan on doing with my LJ, though there are still some issues.

I won't be doing the work myself, and while this might not be the popular choice, of the shops in my area, 4WP seems the best bet. They're doing a Jeep show in a few weeks, and most of the manufactures listed below will be there, so I'll be getting the best deal possible.

But, here's what I've got. Sorry, I tend to write novels:

-Currie 4" short arm, with adjustable control arms, and antirock sway bar.
-ARB nitro shocks
-BFGoodrich AT 35x12.5R15
-ProComp 15" rims
-Currie heavy duty tierod
-Vanco big brake kit 15"
-Revolution Dana 30/44 chromolly shafts
-Revolution Dana 30/44 ring/pinion 4.88
-Speedometer gear
-Motor mount lift; Savvy or MORE

Those are the parts I'm pretty set on going with, unless I get some negative feedback.

Things I'm still working on
-Fenders
-Spare tire carrier
-Body lift
-Transfer case shifter

That being said, here are the issues I still have:
-Will the ARB shocks be too stiff?
-8" or 10" rims? Will there be a difference in how far the tires stick out? 8" has 3.75" backspacing and -19 offset, 10" has 3.625" backspacing and -46 offset.
-I considered 16" rims, for median between the 15" and 17" rims. But I don't really like the look of the 17s, they cost more, and the 15s offer more sidewall. That said, am I making a mistake with the brakes by not going with 17s? More braking power is better, but shouldn't the 15s be adequate?
-My Jeep is still my daily driver, and being an LJ it has the 6 speed. So with that, I'm assuming that 4.88 is the appropriate gearing ratio? I won't go any larger with the tires without an axle swap, anyway.

And the other things:
-For the fenders, I think Imma hold off on them, until I get the tires mounted, so I can measure and figure out exactly what size I need. Being in Washington, I really want to have proper fender coverage.
-The spare carrier is also up in the air. Maybe a cheaper Smittybilt? Rugged Ridge that replaces the hinges?
-The body lift has unfortunately become an issue. 4WP doesn't do body lifts anymore, and while Northridge will, they quoted me at $600-800; not sure if that was including parts or not. And they won't take my parts, either. Seems a bit outrageous. I thought body lifts were one of the easier mods? I understand that I'll need the body lift to properly run 35s, but will I need it to use a motor mount lift? Basically, can I get by without a body lift for a little while?
-For the Tcase cable, same thing, 4WP won't do it. So, still not sure how to do that one.

Depending on the overall cost with parts and labor at this point, ARB air lockers are also on the list. While both would be great, the rear is the primary. Gonna do a single compressor, to save cost and space under the hood.

But, that's what I've got. Please, lemme know what you think. I'm fairly confident that my list will work well, based on everything I've learned on the forum. But, it can't hurt to ask. Thanks guys!
 
Short answers/opinions, in order:

Shocks: Probably.
Wheels: 8". Yes.
15" vs. 17": Probably not. Also, probably.
Gears: Check the gearing calculator and compare it to how you drive.
Fenders: Good idea.
Spare Carrier: No. No. ExoGate?
Body Lift: They're easy; do it yourself. Also, yes. Don't try.
Shifter: Do this yourself, too.
 
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^^^ X2.
The 15 BBK will be sufficient. 15" tires will give you many more choices and better load C tire options.
If you just do the MML without the BL you'll need to adjust the fan shroud.
I don't see a adjustable track bar on that list.
 
Gears: 4.56 is slightly undergeared, 4.88 is slightly over with the 6-speed. The number would be 4.71. Your call
15's, 16's, 17's: 15's should be fine, cheaper and more tire choices
Body Lift: Best to do when you do the MML so you don't have to adjust the fan shroud and trim some plastic. I can do it for you when I come if you can wait.
Rims: 8"
Spare Tire Carrier: Exogate

What's the big deal with fender flare and tire coverage in WA? Is it a legal issue or a throwing crap on your rig issue? I'm moving there this year from TX.
 
Short answers/opinions, in order:

Shocks: Probably.
Wheels: 8". Yes.
15" vs. 17": Probably not. Also, probably.
Gears: Check the gearing calculator and compare it to how you drive.
Fenders: Good idea.
Spare Carrier: No. No. ExoGate?
Body Lift: They're easy; do it yourself. Also, yes. Don't try.
Shifter: Do this yourself, too.

SHOCKS: Eh, I like the ARBs, but if they're too stiff, might go another way.

WHEELS: Will the 10" be wider or more narrow? Just wondering. I honestly want it to be as narrow as possible while still giving enough clearance.

15/17: I thought so. Figure 15 offers more.

GEARS: Will do.

FENDERS: Might not get to drive it for a little while, but I think it's the safest bet. Thanks.

SPARE: I'll look into the ExoGate.

BODY LIFT: Okay, won't skip. I'll look into it more.

SHIFTER: I'll check that out some more as well.

Thanks.



^^^ X2.
The 15 BBK will be sufficient. 15" tires will give you many more choices and better load C tire options.
If you just do the MML without the BL you'll need to adjust the fan shroud.
I don't see a adjustable track bar on that list.

Yeah, unless I start towing, which a Jeep isn't REALLY meant for that, I figured the brakes would be good. And more sidewall and tire options.

I think I'd rather just do the body lift at the same time. Can I do the body lift, like a week prior?

Forgot to mention, the Currie kit comes with an adjustable front and a rear relocation.

Gears: 4.56 is slightly undergeared, 4.88 is slightly over with the 6-speed. The number would be 4.71. Your call
15's, 16's, 17's: 15's should be fine, cheaper and more tire choices
Body Lift: Best to do when you do the MML so you don't have to adjust the fan shroud and trim some plastic. I can do it for you when I come if you can wait.
Rims: 8"
Spare Tire Carrier: Exogate

What's the big deal with fender flare and tire coverage in WA? Is it a legal issue or a throwing crap on your rig issue? I'm moving there this year from TX.

Gears: Hmm, might be the wrong answer, but I MIGHT lean towards the 4.56, since it's my DD, and I still have 4LOW. Maybe not the right answer.

15s: All true, and I think they make the tires look bigger!

BODY LIFT: Okay, I'll see what I can do with that. That would be great if I could get your help, but I'm looking to do it around late April or early May. Plus, you're gonna be on the east side, correct?

RIMS: I figured 8", but wasn't sure. Thanks.

SPARE: I'll check that guy out. Depends on cost, though.

It depends on the location, but the state law says fenders and/or mud flaps must cover down to the center of the axle, and cover the tread of the tires. The enforcement seems to be hit or miss, but it's not something I wanna deal with. Mine is stock, yet it actually isn't legal, cuz the flares are wide enough, but I don't have mud flaps. I'll probably add mud flaps as well, later.
 
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Would it be a problem to do the motor mount lift and the body lift before anything else? Kinda get it out of the way before all of the suspension and other things? Or would that lead to driveline issues?
 
Ditch the ARB shocks and look at the Rancho 5000X's.
Go with the 15 inch wheels.
Savvy trans case cable shifter will eliminate the headache that a body lift and the stock shofter will bring.
4.88's if it s up to a vote.

No mention of SYE or driveshafts...
 
Ditch the ARB shocks and look at the Rancho 5000X's.
Go with the 15 inch wheels.
Savvy trans case cable shifter will eliminate the headache that a body lift and the stock shofter will bring.
4.88's if it s up to a vote.

No mention of SYE or driveshafts...

I'm really on the fence with the ARBs. The Ranchos were my original pick.

It seems 15s will be the best, unless I go to 37s, which won't be on these axles.

I haven't had many problems with my trans shifter, but it sounds like it'll be much better the cable. And of course, with the body lift and the potential tummy tuck in the future.

I was leaning 4.56, thinking that a slight reduction in RPMs would help conserve fuel, but a bit of reading led to finding that, with more weight and being taller, the higher RPMs might help with the fuel. Whatever efficiency there is the be had in a Jeep, anyway.

For the drive shaft and SYE, being it's an LJ and doing the MML, I'm hoping I can get away with neither until I do the tummy tuck. But I'm prepared to do them, if necessary.

Thanks for the suggestions.
 
I'm really on the fence with the ARBs. The Ranchos were my original pick.

It seems 15s will be the best, unless I go to 37s, which won't be on these axles.

I haven't had many problems with my trans shifter, but it sounds like it'll be much better the cable. And of course, with the body lift and the potential tummy tuck in the future.

I was leaning 4.56, thinking that a slight reduction in RPMs would help conserve fuel, but a bit of reading led to finding that, with more weight and being taller, the higher RPMs might help with the fuel. Whatever efficiency there is the be had in a Jeep, anyway.

For the drive shaft and SYE, being it's an LJ and doing the MML, I'm hoping I can get away with neither until I do the tummy tuck. But I'm prepared to do them, if necessary.

Thanks for the suggestions.
JB conversions makes a Super Short SYE that has some more recent engineering and updates in it over all the other SYE offerings out there.
https://www.jbconversions.com/products/sye/np231c_short_sye.php
 
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-Currie 4" short arm, with adjustable control arms, and antirock sway bar. - yes or Savvy
-ARB nitro shocks - your preference
-BFGoodrich AT 35x12.5R15 - your preference
-ProComp 15" rims - steel, no. aluminum, yes
-Currie heavy duty tierod - Currie Currectlync
-Vanco big brake kit 15" - yes
-Revolution Dana 30/44 chromolly shafts - yes
-Revolution Dana 30/44 ring/pinion 4.88 - yes
-Speedometer gear - yes
-Motor mount lift; Savvy or MORE - if your OEM mounts are good Savvy, if they're shot M.O.R.E. bombproof rubber

Those are the parts I'm pretty set on going with, unless I get some negative feedback.

Things I'm still working on
-Fenders - your preference
-Spare tire carrier - tailgate mounted? forum consensus seems to be MORryde
-Body lift - Savvy
-Transfer case shifter - Savvy

That being said, here are the issues I still have:
-Will the ARB shocks be too stiff? - dunno
-8" or 10" rims? - 8"
-I considered 16" rims - no

-That said, am I making a mistake with the brakes by not going with 17s? More braking power is better, but shouldn't the 15s be adequate? - call Blaine at Black Magic Brakes
-My Jeep is still my daily driver, and being an LJ it has the 6 speed. So with that, I'm assuming that 4.88 is the appropriate gearing ratio? - your preference. Check http://www.grimmjeeper.com/gears.html - I'm going with 5.13s for 35s and the 6 speed

And the other things:
I thought body lifts were one of the easier mods? - It is. All you need is a floor jack, a length of 4x4 post and common hand tools
I understand that I'll need the body lift to properly run 35s - commonly you need 5" of total lift that most get with a 4" suspension and 1.25" body lift
but will I need it to use a motor mount lift? - you can get by with relocating the fan shroud
Basically, can I get by without a body lift for a little while? - you can but at less than $150 why would you?
-For the Tcase cable, same thing, 4WP won't do it. - do it yourself. It's easy.

Depending on the overall cost with parts and labor at this point, ARB air lockers are also on the list. - nothing bad to say about ARBs
 
That would be great if I could get your help, but I'm looking to do it around late April or early May. Plus, you're gonna be on the east side, correct?
Yeah, east side, and I probably won’t make it by April or May. Thanks for the answers with mud flaps. I’ll be doing what i can to avoid that as much as possible, or figure out a way to do it as aesthetically pleasing as possible, like trim a good one down till it’s right at the centerline of the wheel and then quickly remove when I go wheelin.
 
Would it be a problem to do the motor mount lift and the body lift before anything else? Kinda get it out of the way before all of the suspension and other things? Or would that lead to driveline issues?

I went for several years the same way without a problem.
 
One of the very first things I did to mine was the body lift and motor mount lift. My one regret looking back is that I used the JKS body lift instead of a hard puck like Savvy. That missing fraction of an inch from the squishy spacer is increasingly important with several things I want to do in the future.

Regarding the gearing, choose for performance and the efficiency will follow. Go lower than you think you should.
 
Alright, looks like it's gonna be happening soon. I've got a list of everything that I plan on doing with my LJ, though there are still some issues.

I won't be doing the work myself, and while this might not be the popular choice, of the shops in my area, 4WP seems the best bet. They're doing a Jeep show in a few weeks, and most of the manufactures listed below will be there, so I'll be getting the best deal possible.

But, here's what I've got. Sorry, I tend to write novels:

-Currie 4" short arm, with adjustable control arms, and antirock sway bar.
-ARB nitro shocks
-BFGoodrich AT 35x12.5R15
-ProComp 15" rims
-Currie heavy duty tierod
-Vanco big brake kit 15"
-Revolution Dana 30/44 chromolly shafts
-Revolution Dana 30/44 ring/pinion 4.88
-Speedometer gear
-Motor mount lift; Savvy or MORE

Those are the parts I'm pretty set on going with, unless I get some negative feedback.

Things I'm still working on
-Fenders
-Spare tire carrier
-Body lift
-Transfer case shifter

That being said, here are the issues I still have:
-Will the ARB shocks be too stiff?
-8" or 10" rims? Will there be a difference in how far the tires stick out? 8" has 3.75" backspacing and -19 offset, 10" has 3.625" backspacing and -46 offset.
-I considered 16" rims, for median between the 15" and 17" rims. But I don't really like the look of the 17s, they cost more, and the 15s offer more sidewall. That said, am I making a mistake with the brakes by not going with 17s? More braking power is better, but shouldn't the 15s be adequate?
-My Jeep is still my daily driver, and being an LJ it has the 6 speed. So with that, I'm assuming that 4.88 is the appropriate gearing ratio? I won't go any larger with the tires without an axle swap, anyway.

And the other things:
-For the fenders, I think Imma hold off on them, until I get the tires mounted, so I can measure and figure out exactly what size I need. Being in Washington, I really want to have proper fender coverage.
-The spare carrier is also up in the air. Maybe a cheaper Smittybilt? Rugged Ridge that replaces the hinges?
-The body lift has unfortunately become an issue. 4WP doesn't do body lifts anymore, and while Northridge will, they quoted me at $600-800; not sure if that was including parts or not. And they won't take my parts, either. Seems a bit outrageous. I thought body lifts were one of the easier mods? I understand that I'll need the body lift to properly run 35s, but will I need it to use a motor mount lift? Basically, can I get by without a body lift for a little while?
-For the Tcase cable, same thing, 4WP won't do it. So, still not sure how to do that one.

Depending on the overall cost with parts and labor at this point, ARB air lockers are also on the list. While both would be great, the rear is the primary. Gonna do a single compressor, to save cost and space under the hood.

But, that's what I've got. Please, lemme know what you think. I'm fairly confident that my list will work well, based on everything I've learned on the forum. But, it can't hurt to ask. Thanks guys!

Hey man I’m only 16 and you save a lot doing your own work. If I can do it you can. Just do a lot of research and you end up learning so much more by doing stuff yourself.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
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steel, no. aluminum, yes
if your OEM mounts are good Savvy, if they're shot M.O.R.E. bombproof rubber
tailgate mounted? forum consensus seems to be
MORryde
Check http://www.grimmjeeper.com/gears.html - I'm going with 5.13s for 35s and the 6 speed do it yourself. It's easy.

I might do Dick Cepek tires instead of BFG, but they're popular, and will likely be on sale. Don't think I can go wrong with BFG.
Definitely going with aluminum wheels.
Okay, I'll take another look at the MORE lift.
Seems the concensus is 8" rims.
I'll look at that spare mount as well.

For the gears, I thought maybe go a bit lower, but now the 4.88 sounds better. You're doing 5.13; is it a daily driver for you?

I went for several years the same way without a problem.

I figured; would seem kinda weird that it would cause issues. But just in case, I wanted to ask.
Thanks.

Yeah, east side, and I probably won’t make it by April or May. Thanks for the answers with mud flaps. I’ll be doing what i can to avoid that as much as possible, or figure out a way to do it as aesthetically pleasing as possible, like trim a good one down till it’s right at the centerline of the wheel and then quickly remove when I go wheelin.

No problem. It is a bit annoying, though I don't hear a whole lot of people getting pulled over for fenders. That's one of the reasons I've considered the Metalcloaks, but I don't like that the taper in at the bottom. Might not help with the fender laws here.


One of the very first things I did to mine was the body lift and motor mount lift. My one regret looking back is that I used the JKS body lift instead of a hard puck like Savvy. That missing fraction of an inch from the squishy spacer is increasingly important with several things I want to do in the future.

Regarding the gearing, choose for performance and the efficiency will follow. Go lower than you think you should.

That's exactly why I wanted to go with the Savvy. Thanks for the reassurance.

I'm guessing that by going lower, you mean go with the 4.88 instead of 4.56? I'm sorry, I get a bit confused there.

Hey man I’m only 16 and you save a lot doing your own work. If I can do it you can. Just do a lot of research and you end up learning so much more by doing stuff yourself.

As much as I'd like to, for the sake of money and knowledge, it really isn't feasible.

I just don't have the time or space. And I need my Jeep back as soon as possible.
 
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So, comparing 3.73 with 30s and the other gears with 35s, and looking mostly at 25mph in 3rd and 60 mph in 6th...

4.56 is about 100 RPMs higher than stock,
4.88 is about 250 RPMs higher than stock,
5.13 is about 350 RPMs higher than stock.

With that, I think I'll go with the 4.88. Noticeably higher RPM than stock, more than I thought, but not TOO high.
 
For the gears, I thought maybe go a bit lower, but now the 4.88 sounds better. You're doing 5.13; is it a daily driver for you?

It's the decision I came to after a combination of a previous regearing, looking at the RPMs that 5.13s will produce, the increased resistance of the much larger tires and some advice I'd received. My LJ is no longer my daily driver.


With that, I think I'll go with the 4.88. Noticeably higher RPM than stock, more than I thought, but not TOO high.

That'll work. You don't want equivelent RPMs to a smaller tire/higher gear setup due to the increased rolling resistance of the taller/wider tires. I'm going to opt for 2750ish for 6 gear 65mph.