Critique my build plan

T_Hase89

T_Hase89

TJ Enthusiast
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Joined
Jun 18, 2019
Messages
504
Location
Southern Illinois
Happy Sunday Everyone,

As some of you may know, I picked up a 2004 TJR this past spring with 205k on the clock and 99% rust free. 4.0-5 Speed Manual. I bought it to wheel it, but still want it to be street-able. Currently has 35’s, 4 inch fabtech lift and some unknown shocks on it. I’ve taken it to the “local” off road park and runs / wheels like a champ minus the rubbing due to 35s and no body lift on top of the 4 inch. Anyway....

I’m anal about my vehicles. Not scared to wheel but also like to keep them clean. I want rust proof it as I do live in the rust belt and this jeep came from the south east. Frame is in amazing shape.

Chassis question, I want to remove the tub and clean, por15, line the inside of the frame. Would is be worth the hassle of completely stripping, blasting and redoing it? Or is that getting too carried away for a wheeler I want to keep and last.

While the tub is off, sand blast it. Por15 the bottom. I also have a desire to have a desert tan jeep with black accents and intend to do bed liner exterior (tan) and interior floor pans (black). Not concerned with resale but will take good pics before work to ease mind of any future owner.

Good stuff plan:

Factory Dana 44s with upgraded axles and 4:88s. Is it worth changing out factory locker for ARBs or Detroit’s?

Currie 4 inch, anti rocks, steering. I know that comes highly regarded along with some rancho shocks.

MM lift, body lift, custom flat belly.

Poison spyder highlines, rears and tire carrier.

Metal cloak front bumper with grill guard hoop.


Custom cage. Bead locks.

I think this will net me a solid platform that will last me a long time. Anything I am overlooking? I’ve made the mistake in the past of wanting to do big things, big projects and not being able to wheel for a couple years and get burnt out. This work will all be done this winter and ideal end game is a long term reliable machine that I can wheel year in and out so I can start my dream build of a Cummins powered Cherokee chief on tons.

Pic on my random country cruise yesterday.

AED46AF0-C8A3-4A5F-BED5-3559A51AC4E2.jpeg
 
Last edited:
T_Hase89 said:
Happy Sunday Everyone,

As some of you may know, I picked up a 2004 TJR this past spring with 205k on the clock and 99% rust free. I bought it to wheel it, but still want it to be street-able. Currently has 35’s, 4 inch fabtech lift and some unknown shocks on it. I’ve taken it to the “local” off road park and runs / wheels like a champ minus the rubbing due to 35s and no body lift on top of the 4 inch. Anyway....

I’m anal about my vehicles. Not scared to wheel but also like to keep them clean. I want rust proof it as I do live in the rust belt and this jeep came from the south east. Frame is in amazing shape.

Chassis question, I want to remove the tub and clean, por15, line the inside of the frame. Would is be worth the hassle of completely stripping, blasting and redoing it? Or is that getting too carried away for a wheeler I want to keep and last.

While the tub is off, sand blast it. Por15 the bottom. I also have a desire to have a desert tan jeep with black accents and intend to do bed liner exterior (tan) and interior floor pans (black). Not concerned with resale but will take good pics before work to ease mind of any future owner.

Good stuff plan:

Factory Dana 44s with upgraded axles and 4:88s. Is it worth changing out factory locker for ARBs or Detroit’s?

Currie 4 inch, anti rocks, steering. I know that comes highly regarded along with some rancho shocks.

MM lift, body lift, custom flat belly.

Poison spyder highlines, rears and tire carrier.

Metal cloak front bumper with grill guard hoop.


Custom cage. Bead locks.

I think this will net me a solid platform that will last me a long time. Anything I am overlooking? I’ve made the mistake in the past of wanting to do big things, big projects and not being able to wheel for a couple years and get burnt out. This work will all be done this winter and ideal end game is a long term reliable machine that I can wheel year in and out so I can start my dream build of a Cummins powered Cherokee chief on tons.

Pic on my random country cruise yesterday.

View attachment 110476
Click to expand...
what gears are in the axles? This is where I would start.
 
Good overall plan. Changing out factory lockers would be overkill. As long as the shop that regears knows how to set up gears with the factory lockers youll be good.

Beadlocks can be a PITA.

Cage? Might be overkill too. Just my opinion

MC bumpers can add lots of weight. Think Savvy aluminum. Design is more functional.
 
Poison Spyder Hilines. Good call

MML and BL good. Should have plenty of room.

12” custom shocks?
 
JMT said:
Good overall plan. Changing out factory lockers would be overkill. As long as the shop that regears knows how to set up gears with the factory lockers youll be good.

Beadlocks can be a PITA.

Cage? Might be overkill too. Just my opinion

MC bumpers can add lots of weight. Think Savvy aluminum. Design is more functional.
Click to expand...

Yeah I’m on the fence about bead locks . However, cage is important to me. Lot of long steep hills where I wheel and safety is important.

Actually meant to put Motobilt front bumper but I’ll check out the savvy you mentioned. Thanks!
 
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T_Hase89 said:
...

Actually meant to put Motobilt front bumper but I’ll check out the savvy you mentioned. Thanks!
Click to expand...

If you are interested in why the Savvy bumper is special beyond the aluminum, look at my build thread the last couple weeks to see how I am chopping up a Motobilt stubby to be more like the Savvy.
 
Many of your plans are the same I did on mine.

I went with all the same Currie products, but Rancho RS9000XL Shocks. Upgraded my front axles with Ten Factory Chrom. and did a regear to 4:88s' with G2 Gears. Also did the 1" BL, but I went with Genright Alum Fenders.

I have to say my Rubi drives and wheels amazing. I know there is a lot cheaper stuff on the market, but I think you have chosen all top end products. If I had to do again I would not change anything, as they say buy once cry once. I never think I wish I would have done this or that.
 
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Plumber1 said:
Many of your plans are the same I did on mine.

I went with all the same Currie products, but Rancho RS9000XL Shocks. Upgraded my front axles with Ten Factory Chrom. and did a regear to 4:88s' with G2 Gears. Also did the 1" BL, but I went with Genright Alum Fenders.

I have to say my Rubi drives and wheels amazing. I know there is a lot cheaper stuff on the market, but I think you have chosen all top end products. If I had to do again I would not change anything, as they say buy once cry once. I never think I wish I would have done this or that.
Click to expand...

That’s really good to hear. I’ve gone cheap route before on past jeeps and usually ended up spending double than if I would of done it the right way first
 
I have nothing but good things to say about my Metalcloak front bumper (and that will depend on how you spec it too), between that and the Savvy version I feel it's more personal opinion.
 
Daz7 said:
I have nothing but good things to say about my Metalcloak front bumper (and that will depend on how you spec it too), between that and the Savvy version I feel it's more personal opinion.
Click to expand...

It takes a lot of cutting and rearranging to start making the Metalcloak comparable to the Savvy. ;)
 
Daz7 said:
In what way? (I was told not to feed the trolls but hey, boring day at the office).
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Larger winch deck with more frame attachments and more structural support bracing the bumper against the frame. It is significantly stronger in and of itself and it also significantly strengthens the frame. Then there is the weight difference. That part I couldn't copy. If there is another off the shelf bumper like it, I don't know what it is.
 
jjvw said:
If you are interested in why the Savvy bumper is special beyond the aluminum, look at my build thread the last couple weeks to see how I am chopping up a Motobilt stubby to be more like the Savvy.
Click to expand...

Ironically I did the motobilt because I wasn’t educated enough to know if the savvy has some buffer between the steel/aluminum (to avoid corrosion of the different metals). Since the order and seeing you thread I’ve been kicking myself a little.

The problems of a time crunch on a big trip in September.
 
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