Cross Threaded Warn Winch Mounting Bolt

Stinkbug

Stinkbug

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I have a brand new Warn Zeon winch that has a cross threaded mounting bolt…

My son and I mounted the winch for test fitting on a new bumper. When we tried to remove it, I found that one of the mounting bolts was cross threaded but I did not discover this until the nut in the slot of the winch foot began spitting. I was left with a bolt that had a few threads exposed on the bottom and a nut in the winch foot that was chewing further and further into the casting as it spun.

I used a cut off wheel to cut off the bolt head and removed the winch from the bumper to get a better look at things. I have about 1/2 or an inch of bolt sticking out and a nut that has a little friction in the slot but not enough to hold it under pressure of removing the bolt. They seem to be fused together.

I tried wedging a small screwdriver in the slot and turning the bolt with vise grips with no progress. I considered getting out torch and heating the bolt to melt the nylon in the nyloc not to make things a little looser but decided to take a step back and come at it again in the morning with a fresh mind.

I would appreciate and suggestion to help me avoid destroying this winch foot and having to buy a new case half…

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Maybe @Blackjack has some suggestions? Might also help to move this thread to the Winch and Recovery Gear section.
 
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You could use an oscillating tool with a narrow width blade and cut under the self locking nut flange while holding and lifting up the bolt threads with vise grips.
 
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You will want to split the winch to make life easier for sure. For the older winches we used to cut the bolt flush with drum support and then use a carbide burr to eat up enough of the bolt we could get the square nut out. I think with the Zeon since the nut is already turning you could carefully remove the flange off the nut and there might just be enough room to sneak it out instead of having to grind the bolt.
 
flyinfish said:
You could use an oscillating tool with a narrow width blade and cut under the self locking nut flange while holding and lifting up the bolt threads with vise grips.
Click to expand...

That would be interesting but I am not sure if there is a narrow enough blade to work without running into the drum support.
 
Just as @Mall'er said. Use a dremel and cut the nut in line with the bolt, and that will release enough tension to remove the bolt. If not cut the other side too and remove the halves.
 
Lots of concerns here. The cast aluminum alloy will lose every battle where the tool for cutting steel is used. Be very aware of that.
If you get enough force to hold the nut from turning on the nut flats, clamp something on the outside of the pocket walls the nut lives in. The casting will lose that battle and crack.

I would fetch up several new sharp good 1/8" drill bits and a good drill motor. Take a sharp center punch and lay out and punch a row of dots to drill a row of holes to the threads on the bolt. Turn it 180 and do the other side. That should get it to the point where a sharp cold chisel will split the nut. Clamp the vise-grip back on the threads to hold it while drilling.

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After you get done with all that nonsense, then go buy a new case half. ;) J/K but you should really consider a non nyloc serrated flange nut since you've fuckered the slot sides that keep the nut from spinning.
 
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This morning with a fresh mind and some good suggestions I was able to make short work of it. Without splitting the case, drilled the center of the nut flat with some cutting oil and a sharp 1/8 bit, then a 1/4 and a finally 5/16 for good measure. I drilled almost all the way through the bolt. The bolt was then loose enough to twist out with a pair of pliers.

I am crossing my fingers I can get as (Blaine suggested) a serrated nut to bite to allow the 30lb torque suggested to secure the winch. I am thinking removing the powder coating in that area will help.

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Stinkbug said:
This morning with a fresh mind and some good suggestions I was able to make short work of it. Without splitting the case, drilled the center of the nut flat with some cutting oil and a sharp 1/8 bit, then a 1/4 and a finally 5/16 for good measure. I drilled almost all the way through the bolt. The bolt was then loose enough to twist out with a pair of pliers.

I am crossing my fingers I can get as (Blaine suggested) a serrated nut to bite to allow the 30lb torque suggested to secure the winch. I am thinking removing the powder coating in that area will help.

View attachment 448352
Click to expand...

No need to remove the PC, the nut will bite.
 
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