Cummins R2.8 swap Alaska build

Jake kozlowski

TJ Enthusiast
Joined
Feb 17, 2018
Messages
305
Location
Elmendorf Air Force Base, Anchorage, AK, USA
Current build...
Jeep TJ
2.5 (currently being pulled)
Ax5 (currently being pulled)
HP Dana 30, 5.13, ARB
Dana 35, 5.13, ARB
SYE
MC 4.5 long arm

Future plans
Cummins R2.8 (awaiting removal of 2.5)
Ax15 w/quickdraw adapter
Ford 8.8, 4.10, OX
Regear Dana 30 to 4.10
Genright fenders???
PCM delete
New guages or cluster

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If you are thinking about the Intellitronix dash and haven't bought yet they are doing a SEMA sale right now with 23% off.

https://www.intellitronix.com/product-page/jeep-97-06-tj-led-digital-gauge-panel

Also if you are super set on one color then watch Ebay as I got mine 2 years ago for $240.


Edit: I was station at Ft Richardson from 1981-1983... Lived in Barrow from 1970-1973

I never saw that one when I was doing my swap. I ended up with the Dakota Digital. I still like it, but I had at least twice that much in mine.
 
The 97 can be a bit odd at times.

What tires do you typically run?

Did you get a used AX-15 or rebuilt or get one from Advanced Adapters?
 
If you are thinking about the Intellitronix dash and haven't bought yet they are doing a SEMA sale right now with 23% off.

https://www.intellitronix.com/product-page/jeep-97-06-tj-led-digital-gauge-panel

Also if you are super set on one color then watch Ebay as I got mine 2 years ago for $240.


Edit: I was station at Ft Richardson from 1981-1983... Lived in Barrow from 1970-1973

That is why I am looking at them! I'm just curious on what folks are doing to get the tachometer to work on that specific gauge setup.

Appreciate your service and barrow had to have been awesome!!! I'm jealous!
 
I never saw that one when I was doing my swap. I ended up with the Dakota Digital. I still like it, but I had at least twice that much in mine.

I love the look of the Dakota digital, but price and same as the other guages. I don't know if the tachometer will work with the Cummins pulse setup
 
I love the look of the Dakota digital, but price and same as the other guages. I don't know if the tachometer will work with the Cummins pulse setup

I believe there's a signal wire from the Cummins ECU. I think someone said using the V8 input was close to the Murphy Gauge. Using the DD setup, I also used a converter and just dialed it in, but if you keep your Murphy Gauge handy or even get a more advanced Murphy Gauge you can get it close and then reference the gauge if you need it more accurate.
 
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I believe there's a signal wire from the Cummins ECU. I think someone said using the V8 input was close to the Murphy Gauge. Using the DD setup, I also used a converter and just dialed it in, but if you keep your Murphy Gauge handy or even get a more advanced Murphy Gauge you can get it close and then reference the gauge if you need it more accurate.

Copy! Yeah I really like the look of the Murphy gauge.

I guess that means I could run basically any electronically controlled tach, like an auto meter one.
 
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4.10s would be good, but I would be lazy and leave the 5.13's for years. It'll hurt the MPG a bit but it'll move around town easily.

I settled back on the AX-15 and I really thought about a lot of different transmissions, but it ultimately came down to a combination of good enough and price. I did order a brand new from Advanced Adapters a new AX-15 and that price for a new transmission is incredibly attractive. They claimed the new ones are slightly more robust than the old ones. Considering it's 1/3 cost of all the other transmission setups I was considering, I'm just going to run with it and I'll have my spare so I can rebuild it and even have an extra to swap in if it doesn't hold up.

What radiator setup are you going with?

I'm guessing no AC?

I suggest probably going dual battery with 2 starting batteries, but the coldest start I've done was like 7F.
 
Copy! Yeah I really like the look of the Murphy gauge.

I guess that means I could run basically any electronically controlled tach, like an auto meter one.

Yeah I ultimately just treated my cluster like I would with an old muscle car and just ran actual gauges basically. You can get the OEM 1 to work, but I'd have to go back and figure out what was required.

I went with GPS speedometer and I've been happy with that setup, though I lose reception every time I'm in the garage, but it's very simple wiring. Tap into the oil cooler for oil pressure and tap into a part near the thermostat for engine temp, use the tach sensor from the Cummins ECU and if you've got GPS then everything else you can just use the stock sensors. The fuel level was pretty close using a GM profile I think, but most gauges will give you some custom options.
 
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The worst part about the gauges IMO is all the wiring colors, trying to make those match, but really you're just gonna have to use a label maker that will print on heat shrink tubing and then the routing is something I never got exactly how I wanted.
 
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4.10s would be good, but I would be lazy and leave the 5.13's for years. It'll hurt the MPG a bit but it'll move around town easily.

I settled back on the AX-15 and I really thought about a lot of different transmissions, but it ultimately came down to a combination of good enough and price. I did order a brand new from Advanced Adapters a new AX-15 and that price for a new transmission is incredibly attractive. They claimed the new ones are slightly more robust than the old ones. Considering it's 1/3 cost of all the other transmission setups I was considering, I'm just going to run with it and I'll have my spare so I can rebuild it and even have an extra to swap in if it doesn't hold up.

What radiator setup are you going with?

I'm guessing no AC?

I suggest probably going dual battery with 2 starting batteries, but the coldest start I've done was like 7F.

I'll be looking at buying an ax15 from them!!

For radiator I was thinking of going with the stock TJ unit since they are readily available and should be able to keep up.

No AC

I was going to see how my stock napa battery hold up. I also bought the block heater and will be running that as well. Is there room for 2 batteries under the hood after install???
 
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Yeah I ultimately just treated my cluster like I would with an old muscle car and just ran actual gauges basically. You can get the OEM 1 to work, but I'd have to go back and figure out what was required.

I went with GPS speedometer and I've been happy with that setup, though I lose reception every time I'm in the garage, but it's very simple wiring. Tap into the oil cooler for oil pressure and tap into a part near the thermostat for engine temp, use the tach sensor from the Cummins ECU and if you've got GPS then everything else you can just use the stock sensors. The fuel level was pretty close using a GM profile I think, but most gauges will give you some custom options.

I'd run 5.13 but I think that would be the final breaking point of the Dana 35.... It's been a great rear end but I don't think it's up for the task...

Gps I think is the way to go as well. Simple, accurate, no crazy sensors to figure out.

Fuel was another one I was curious since it's all ohm based. Didn't see a whole lot of info on what the stock unit puts out for resistance for an aftermarket gauge...
 
The worst part about the gauges IMO is all the wiring colors, trying to make those match, but really you're just gonna have to use a label maker that will print on heat shrink tubing and then the routing is something I never got exactly how I wanted.

I'm buying a label maker as well to wrap the certain looms and wires as well. I hate working so I really only want to attempt it once.
 
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I'll be looking at buying an ax15 from them!!

For radiator I was thinking of going with the stock TJ unit since they are readily available and should be able to keep up.

No AC

I was going to see how my stock napa battery hold up. I also bought the block heater and will be running that as well. Is there room for 2 batteries under the hood after install???

granted fairbanks gets a little bit colder,
i would cover the hood with a blanket and put a space heater in the engine bay for starts.