Cupholder Bolt

1Blacktj

1Blacktj

TJ Enthusiast
Joined
May 29, 2018
Messages
225
Location
Blowing Rock, NC, USA
So i had a new interesting problem the other day. I was driving and realized that my whole cupholder and the plastics around the shifter was really loose. So the next day i went to tighten the bolt in the cupholder and some how the threads are stripped? Is this something that has happened to other people before and what is the best way to fix this issue.
 
I have a similar issue with mine. Are you talking about the bolt in the front or the bolts in the back?

My rear cup holder bolt was completely loose and it turned out the nut was no longer attached to the body. I have some JB weld and I was going to place a new nut on the underside of the body to screw the bolt in to. I haven't done it yet so I'm definitely open recommendations.
 
Mines the one in the front and it isn't the nut that broke loose because with a little force just pull the bolt out. It threads in just will not tighten fully. Sadly the hole isn't visible from the underside.
 
So I know this an older thread but I solved my issue! I went to the hardware store and bought a m8 bolt and tap and retapped the hole because the hole did end up stripping out. Thankfully was an easy fix!
 
Well there we have it. Mission completed!

I've got a couple questions:

What was the stripped out part? I figure it was welded on but was it similar to a real nut or like a clip on style nut?

And Is every threaded item in a TJ metric to begin with?

Part of me says "Made in the USA" should have no metrics.

The other part of me says everything should be metric because some parts are imported for assembly and it's better than the mix and match which has been going on for decades. My first experience with that was taking off the rear brake backing plates from a 1986 S10. There were three bolts total, holding it to the axle. I needed a metric wrench and an "American" wrench. I double checked the threads which were also metric and "American".:BangHead:
 
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JEEPCJTJ said:
Well there we have it. Mission completed!

I've got a couple questions:

What was the stripped out part? I figure it was welded on but was it similar to a real nut or like a clip on style nut?

And Is every threaded item in a TJ metric to begin with?

Part of me says "Made in the USA" should have no metrics.

The other part of me says everything should be metric because some parts are imported for assembly and it's better than the mix and match which has been going on for decades. My first experience with that was taking off the rear brake backing plates from a 1986 S10. There were three bolts total, holding it to the axle. I needed a metric wrench and an "American" wrench. I double checked the threads which were also metric and "American".:BangHead:
Click to expand...
So I'm not sure what was supposed to be there but in my case, It was just a threaded hole. No nut welded on or anything. I'm not sure how accurate this is but someone told me one time that most of the tub bolts are metric and the frame and suspension parts are ansi. Not sure why Chrysler did this but I have learned that a 10mm can just about take apart a Jeep!
 
In my 2005 they were sheet metal screws, very course thread and just screwed through the sheet metal, no nut or anything on the back side. The sheet metal is a bit thin for tapping, it may hold or it may not, if it doesn't just use a sheet metal screw that is large enough to thread into the hole......
 
FireJeep said:
In my 2005 they were sheet metal screws, very course thread and just screwed through the sheet metal, no nut or anything on the back side. The sheet metal is a bit thin for tapping, it may hold or it may not, if it doesn't just use a sheet metal screw that is large enough to thread into the hole......
Click to expand...

This is how mine is as well.
 
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