Currectlync with 2.5" lift

inkedrose

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Tried searching this but couldn't find the answers I'm looking for. I have a 2000 sport with 2.5" lift. I just bought a Correctlynk. Read another thread where they said there would be no need to cut or mod anything if raised over an inch but Currie says it's made for 4". Before I start pulling parts off is there anything special I should be doing before hand or is at as simple as swap, ad bump stops and align? For a 4" lift it calls for a 2" bumpstops, does that stay the same for smaller lifts? I'm still learning a lot in here, help me out please.
 
I have a 3 inch lift up front & it's been a few years but if memory serves I had to cut some off the links. Just go ahead & install it then you'll be able to determine what needs to be lopped off.

There's a whole lot to the bump stop question but the short answer is you may have to add some to the lower spring perch up front to keep the wheels from doing undesirable things like ripping your flares off, contacting the fenders, bottoming out your shocks... depends on a lot of factors, I'm no expert but there are plenty here that can give you more information. Adding bump stops also has an impact on your shock travel which can have potentially negative consequences. There are a million & one threads on that topic. Tire size is a big factor in this analysis, they look like 33s or 35s in your picture? Same goes for the rear, though you can add spacers to the upper bump stops, very simple & can be done without removing the springs.
 
Tried searching this but couldn't find the answers I'm looking for. I have a 2000 sport with 2.5" lift. I just bought a Correctlynk. Read another thread where they said there would be no need to cut or mod anything if raised over an inch but Currie says it's made for 4". Before I start pulling parts off is there anything special I should be doing before hand or is at as simple as swap, ad bump stops and align? For a 4" lift it calls for a 2" bumpstops, does that stay the same for smaller lifts? I'm still learning a lot in here, help me out please.
The issue is generally not being able to center the steering wheel when the end of the pitman TRE shank bottoms out against the end of the draglink inside the threaded adjuster. If that happens, you will need to cut some off of the threaded sections.
 
they look like 33s or 35s in your picture?
Thanks for the reply. I’m on 31’s still. Axels and gears are on the list but want stearing dealt with first. Bump stops that I should have are almost completely rotted off. Was hoping there was a one size fits all answer.
 
@mrblaine hit it spot on the nose. I have the same set up and just recently did this upgrade last month. The steering wheel is about 80 degrees to the left at center. As for bump stops they are mandatory so as to avoid over articulation as the website puts it. My factory upper bump stops are in good shape so I bought four hockey pucks online and just drilled into my lower coil buckets and bolted those on there with some hardware from Ace, two pucks on each side. I had a nutsert tool so I used that so I didn't need to worry about fishing a nut on the opposite side and haven't run into any problems yet.
 
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31" tires will. 🤫
Ah gotcha. Axels gears lockers and tires will be all at once. Don’t want bigger tires with 3.73 gearing. Have Dana 35 rear so don’t want to gear without new axel. I’ve had this little Jeep out 2-3 days a week on the moderate stuff near me. Building as I can afford
 
I'm currently in the process of installing my currectlync and like you my setup is 2.5'' suspension lift and 31'' tires. From what I understood from their website, a 2'' min bump stop front and rear is mandatory regardless of the list size, so that's what I did.

Re the alignment of the steering wheel, it seems to be a bolt on mod with my setup. I will probably wrap up within the WE so I can report back both on alignment and bump stops.
 
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In my opinion, The main problem with 2” minimum bumpstops is that you limit your shock travel in these kind of lifts.

Chances are in small lifts ZJ Tie rod conversion would be strong enough for most trails, which would be more beneficial since you would enjoy almost an inch more shock travel.

Am I wrong ?
 
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In my opinion, The main problem with 2” minimum bumpstops is that you limit your shock travel in these kind of lifts.

Chances are in small lifts ZJ Tie rod conversion would be strong enough for most trails, which would be more beneficial since you would enjoy almost an inch more shock travel.

Am I wrong ?
Mine has always run Currie steering with less than 2" bump extension.
 
In March I installed a 2" lift on my '01; replaced the bumpstops with factory originals since the originals were decomposing in the front.
With a 2" lift and factory bumpstops under full compression I still have about 2" of travel remaining on the shocks.
In April I installed a used Currectlync steering setup; the coupling on the draglink near the pitman arm still had 1/2" on each side of the coupling. With no vehicle lift the draglink coupling adjustment at the pitman arm may need to cut by 1/2" as MrBlaine posted above.
 
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FWIW, jounce bumpers and bumpstops are not interchangeable terms.
 
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+1

And FWIW I have Currie 3" springs up front and required no trimming of the Curryectlync setup to get everything centered. Just bolt on and align for me.
 
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