Currie Antirock: Aluminum vs Steel?

If your referring to the context of this application then it sounds like you already made up your mind. If we are talking about items that actually have a significant amount of weight to them like sliders, bumpers, and skids then its a different story.

I totally agree :)

Well said.
 
Sorry if I came across a disputing the replies.

My intention was only to get the correct answer.

Oh, it's fine. I understand that you have to gain trust in certain people on these forums. I mean, who on here knows there stuff and who doesn't? How could you know unless you get confirmation over and over? But if you don't want to go through all that, just go straight to Currie, Savvy, Rubicon Express, ARB, i.e. the company itself. Most people on here will be honest and admit if they don't know or aren't sure. The good thing about the forum is user experience. You can first hand experience from someone who paid the bucks for the mod.

In this case, do you know why you'd be getting an Anti-Rock? If you don't know that and if you don't really know what it does, then why buy it? Why not figure it out first, figure out what it would do for you on the trails you run, and whether it would really be worth the $400?
 
Oh, it's fine. I understand that you have to gain trust in certain people on these forums. I mean, who on here knows there stuff and who doesn't? How could you know unless you get confirmation over and over? But if you don't want to go through all that, just go straight to Currie, Savvy, Rubicon Express, ARB, i.e. the company itself. Most people on here will be honest and admit if they don't know or aren't sure. The good thing about the forum is user experience. You can first hand experience from someone who paid the bucks for the mod.

In this case, do you know why you'd be getting an Anti-Rock? If you don't know that and if you don't really know what it does, then why buy it? Why not figure it out first, figure out what it would do for you on the trails you run, and whether it would really be worth the $400?


Well said. I have only been a member here for a few weeks but have a long history with forums so I am cautious taking statements as fact until I get to know the person making the statement.

I started this thread last night and at 8am sharp called Currie.

I have my build list and as yet Antirocks are not on it. Perhaps in time they will be but for now I’m trying to gain a deep understand of these and other items to see if they may be candidates for a future purchase.
 
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You don't need to think of the Antirock as something that needs to be installed front & rear. Just a front Antirock with the stock rear antiswaybar is a very effective combination. The torsion bar spring rates of the rear Antirock and rear factory antiswaybar are very similar. That's not the case in the front where the factory antiswaybar torsion bar is much stiffer.

The suspension responds very favorably when the front & rear antiswaybars (front meaning the Antirock in this case) have the same torsion rates which happens when a front Antirock/rear factory antiswaybar are installed together. Rear Antirocks are normally installed only after major suspension or axle changes that makes it impossible to make use of the factory rear antiswaybar.
 
You don't need to think of the Antirock as something that needs to be installed front & rear. Just a front Antirock with the stock rear antiswaybar is a very effective combination. The torsion bar spring rates of the rear Antirock and rear factory antiswaybar are very similar. That's not the case in the front where the factory antiswaybar torsion bar is much stiffer.

The suspension responds very favorably when the front & rear antiswaybars (front meaning the Antirock in this case) have the same torsion rates which happens when a front Antirock/rear factory antiswaybar are installed together. Rear Antirocks are normally installed only after major suspension or axle changes that makes it impossible to make use of the factory rear antiswaybar.
I guess a little more research would have revealed this, but that's the first time I've heard about the torsion bar spring rates of the front AR and the stock rear antisway bar being very similar...thanks for the insight! Makes definite sense that they would work well together.
 
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You don't need to think of the Antirock as something that needs to be installed front & rear. Just a front Antirock with the stock rear antiswaybar is a very effective combination. The torsion bar spring rates of the rear Antirock and rear factory antiswaybar are very similar. That's not the case in the front where the factory antiswaybar torsion bar is much stiffer.

The suspension responds very favorably when the front & rear antiswaybars (front meaning the Antirock in this case) have the same torsion rates which happens when a front Antirock/rear factory antiswaybar are installed together. Rear Antirocks are normally installed only after major suspension or axle changes that makes it impossible to make use of the factory rear antiswaybar.
Thoughtful reply, thanks.
 
I guess a little more research would have revealed this, but that's the first time I've heard about the torsion bar spring rates of the front AR and the stock rear antisway bar being very similar...thanks for the insight! Makes definite sense that they would work well together.
I can tell you that where the factory front is well known to limit even the stock flex, the factory rear is soft enough to allow 12" travel shocks to fully flex.
 
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For fun, look at how little the front end flexes in this old Rubicon commerical.

Here is the same Jeep with much longer shocks and a front Antirock on the middle setting and a factory rear.
ddc4dcee9c2b8d0b86562c7cb9483809.jpg
 
Ha I dunno if I would have posted that video Jeep did that shows just how badly it flexes in stock form lol.

Here's a similar example with mine in Devil's Canyon here near the Mexican border...

20140111_105321.jpg
 
Aluminum won’t rust, perhaps that’s important if you reside in Saltopia with so many of us
You are correct aluminum does not rust. However it is very susceptible to salt. It will corrode and eventually fall apart just like steel.

10+ years as a aviation sheetmetal guy. I have seen a lot of corrosion on aluminum.
But it is easier to maintain and keep corrosion from starting.
 
I have the steel antirock. I love the product but the paint (maybe powder coat) on the steel is flaking. Its 3 years old and has never seen winter. Again, I am not bashing the product.