Currie / RockJock track bar with drop pitman arm

[speeding_infraction]

Alright guys, my RC track bar is shot (who woulda guessed) so I'm going to put a currie/rockjock track bar on it. I also have a drop pitman arm and stock linkage. My question is, can I change it to a regular pitman arm and extend the factory linkage, or do I have to do the correctlync kit at the same time?

 

[Tronner]

Alright guys, my RC track bar is shot (who woulda guessed) so I'm going to put a currie/rockjock track bar on it. I also have a drop pitman arm and stock linkage. My question is, can I change it to a regular pitman arm and extend the factory linkage, or do I have to do the correctlync kit at the same time?

Yes, ditch the Drop PA.

 

[macleanflood]

So my uneducated opinion is yes you need the CorrectLync to remove the drop pitman.

Barnes is now offering aluminum bars for reasonable prices.

And Black Magic Brakes has an aluminum bar too.

-Mac

 

[mrblaine]

So my uneducated opinion is yes you need the CorrectLync to remove the drop pitman.

Barnes is now offering aluminum bars for reasonable prices.

And Black Magic Brakes has an aluminum bar too.

-Mac

I don't have an aluminum bar and never will. The problem with aluminum tie rods is you have to increase the diameter to get the strength high enough to work well and that leads to interference and clearance issues. My tie rod is heat treated 4340 chromolly.

I also don't like aluminum because you can't split the ends and use a high strength clamp which means you are using jam nuts and jam nuts suck on anything you can drag in the rocks front to back. With a clamp, even if you do manage to slide it up or down a rock hard enough to turn it, you aren't breaking a set of jam nuts loose. You are just changing the toe setting and that is easily fixed.

 

[TheBoogieman]

Alright guys, my RC track bar is shot

Free shipping to Va?

 

[Sean B]

Alright guys, my RC track bar is shot (who woulda guessed) so I'm going to put a currie/rockjock track bar on it. I also have a drop pitman arm and stock linkage. My question is, can I change it to a regular pitman arm and extend the factory linkage, or do I have to do the correctlync kit at the same time?

You should be fine changing back to a stock pitman arm and using the stock drag link and tie rod, just adjust it for toe and steering wheel centered. I did the same conversion with 4” lift and worked fine.

 

[Weasellee]

You should be fine changing back to a stock pitman arm and using the stock drag link and tie rod, just adjust it for toe and steering wheel centered. I did the same conversion with 4” lift and worked fine.

X2

 

[speeding_infraction]

Free shipping to Va?

How about this, it's free if you pay shipping

 

[Tronner]

You should be fine changing back to a stock pitman arm and using the stock drag link and tie rod, just adjust it for toe and steering wheel centered. I did the same conversion with 4” lift and worked fine.

Toe should stay the same, just adjusting the steering wheel is all that is needed.

 

[speeding_infraction]

Is there any way I can replace the bushings in the track bar to get me buy until I can get the track bar and steering system from currie?

 

[Weasellee]

Go to rough country website see if they offer it. Or they are pretty good if you call them. I was able to purchase parts for sway bar discos from them years ago

 

[speeding_infraction]

Thanks!

 

[JeepDrivesBest]

You can definitely ditch the drop pitman and go back to stock, just need to adjust your drag link length to get the steering wheel centered again.

 

[John Cooper]

I think @AndyG knows what Moog bushings fit......

 

[AndyG]

You can pretty much put a stock bushing in a rough country arm. You’re just going to have to clearance it just a little bit with a die grinder or something.-

If your goal is a bigger bolt, you can use a moog K 7252 bushing and a 14 mm or 9/16 boltand it’s my experience that it makes the steering a little bit quicker to respond and gives it a tad stiffer feel because it basically changes the way you’re pushing off the axle.

And by that I mean, there’s not as much squish in the bushing.

 

[speeding_infraction]

You can pretty much put a stock bushing in a rough country arm. You’re just going to have to clearance it just a little bit with a dye grinder or something.-

If your goal is a bigger bolt, you can use a mug K 7252 bushing and a 14 mm or 9/16 and it’s my experience that it makes the steering a little bit quicker to respond and gives it a tad stiffer feel because it basically changes the way you’re pushing off the axle.

And by that I mean, there’s not as much squish in the bushing

Thanks! I'd rather dump the whole setup and upgrade to currie but it's not feasible at the moment. Is it the same bushing and hardware on both ends?

 

[John Cooper]

You can pretty much put a stock bushing in a rough country arm. You’re just going to have to clearance it just a little bit with a dye grinder or something.-

If your goal is a bigger bolt, you can use a mug K 7252 bushing and a 14 mm or 9/16 and it’s my experience that it makes the steering a little bit quicker to respond and gives it a tad stiffer feel because it basically changes the way you’re pushing off the axle.

And by that I mean, there’s not as much squish in the bushing

Thanks pervert.......

 

[AndyG]

Thanks! I'd rather dump the whole setup and upgrade to currie but it's not feasible at the moment. Is it the same bushing and hardware on both ends?

I can’t remember, and there are several different rough country bars on the market so that plays into it- one of them has a standard tie rod end on it - es3096 L maybe

And one of them, the chunky one with the big bend , is basically intended to go in their drop bracket…. but I can’t remember the details to save my life.

It seems like you would be able to put any compatible fitting in the centering sleeve if you’re trying to make it fit the stock hole- but you’re going to run into a diameter issue if I remember right.


If you need to make it happen and you keep running into trouble, shoot me a PM and I’ll get you my phone number and I’ll try to help you figure it out- i’m pretty sure if you’ll be persistent you can get it done for less than 100 bucks probably less than 50 or 60-

Really as long as the clearance is there if you end up with good connections, you’re gonna get about as good performance with what you have as anything.

The rough country bushings have always been the big pitfall. And it always bothered me because of the bars were so much cheaper, anybody would pay an extra 15 bucks or so for a better bushing from them.

When you deal with a lot of companies, they really don’t make everything they make like just the bar and they outsource the rest just like automotive companies do a lot of -

Automotive companies make the chassis and the drive trained usually and sometimes not even that-

Subcontractors do the rest.

Motorcycle companies are very similar they will make the engine and the frame and everything else is nearly aftermarket or outsourced.

I’ll have my phone back on in the morning.

 

[speeding_infraction]

I can’t remember, and there are several different rough country bars on the market so that plays into it- one of them has a standard tie rod end on it - es3096 L maybe

And one of them, the chunky one with the big bend , is basically intended to go in their drop bracket…. but I can’t remember the details to save my life.

It seems like you would be able to put any compatible fitting in the centering sleeve if you’re trying to make it fit the stock hole- but you’re going to run into a diameter issue if I remember right.


If you need to make it happen and you keep running into trouble, shoot me a PM and I’ll get you my phone number and I’ll try to help you figure it out- i’m pretty sure if you’ll be persistent you can get it done for less than 100 bucks probably less than 50 or 60-

Really as long as the clearance is there if you end up with good connections, you’re gonna get about as good performance with what you have as anything.

The rough country bushings have always been the big pitfall. And it always bothered me because of the bars were so much cheaper, anybody would pay an extra 15 bucks or so for a better bushing from them.

When you deal with a lot of companies, they really don’t make everything they make like just the bar and they outsource the rest just like automotive companies do a lot of -

Automotive companies make the chassis and the drive trained usually and sometimes not even that-

Subcontractors do the rest.

Motorcycle companies are very similar they will make the engine and the frame and everything else is nearly aftermarket or outsourced.

I’ll have my phone back on in the morning.

Yep. It's the forged track bar with the big bend and drop bracket. Shouldn't be too hard to find out what size the bushings are, I do have a set of calipers after all.

@John Cooper I made a typo lol