About to cycle the rear suspension (just control arms) for droop and compressed lengths. Should I have the track bar bolted up or no?
Cycling rear suspension without track bar connected?
- Thread starter chimmike
- Start date
If this is a short arm, Remove the passenger side upper control arm bolt at the axle end if you want it to actually droop without binding up at a 23" shock length.....
On the trail there are forces going on which can squish bushings that you can't reproduce on jack stands with your springs out without getting yourself hurt.
You can eliminate binding and rear steer with geometry correction in a 12" travel range from a 2" bumpstop extension.
Track bar attached and springs out. The axle has more than enough weight to make everything flex even with stock arms everytime I've done it. Disconnect the sway bar too.
Worked fine for me with 9" travel shocks on stock arms. I noticed the bind on outboarded 12" shocks with Metalcloak bushings. But standing on the dropped side brought us to full flex. And having a guy on each side took us down to full droop.
12" travel matched to a 3" bumpstop is the same droop as a 25" shock in stock mounts. It matches a 17.5" spring freelength. The outboard 18/30" shock gains nearly 2" of uptravel due to the collapsed length of the 9" travel shock in stock mounts.
Currie arms don't matter. It will still bind unless you pull an upper control arm bolt. If you cycle the suspension with a track bar bolt out you will not be able to articulate the suspension at all. It will only go straight up and straight down.