Dana 30 Front Axle With 33" Tires, PowerTrax No-Slip or Spartan Helical?

[RangerTJ]

I currently have 4.56 gears and I don't rock crawl. Mainly just forestry service roads and being in GA you're certain to encounter mud.

So I just discovered that my rear axle already had a TrueTrac in it and now have the refund to spend on the front axle.

From all I've read, the No-Slip and the Spartan Helical will be very civil on the street, with the exception of the PowerTrax being sketchy on snowy roads (not an issue here).

They are both now the exact same price.

Part of me likes the idea of a front helical to match the rear TrueTrac.

I guess my question really comes down to will I need to upgrade my front axle shafts with the No-Slip?

I know the stock shafts should be fine with the Spartan Helical.

If I can get away with the stock shafts I'll likely go No-Slip since I won't have to replace carrier bearings if I go that route.

Thanks for any info/tips!

 

[CharlesHS]

The stock Dana 30 front axles are capable of handling a limited slip and locker, but the U joints usually are the weak link.
I would inspect the U joints verifying their condition looking for red dust coming from the cup seals and the cups spinning inside the yoke ears indicating the U joint trunion is not rotating on the needle bearings due to a lack of grease.
IF you need to replace the U joints I would have the remainder of the yoke U joint cup retaining grooves machined (another 120*) to install full circle C clips (31mm ??) to fully support the cup inside the yoke ears.
There are alloy front axles available that come with HD U joints and full circle clips IF you want to spend the additional money.

 

[Jerry Bransford]

The stock Dana 30 front axles are capable of handling a limited slip and locker, but the U joints usually are the weak link.

Actually it's usually the other way around... the unhardened ears on the unhardened factory axle shafts aren't capable of holding onto the u-joints after stretching or breaking so the u-joints can pull out and spin then break. This is a common problem after a front locker is installed and you're on a tougher trail with a little too much gas pedal.

This is where my factory outer stub shaft ear broke...

That's what happened to me, one of my factory shaft ears that hold the u-joints broke. After replacing the factory shafts with hardened chromoly shafts I had no more problems.

So far as a front traction aiding advice, I'll always recommend a locker when there's no icy roads or trails to contend with. And in the front, it's real hard to beat the No-Slip which I installed into my previous TJ. I couldn't even tell it was there in 2wd on the street.

 

[CharlesHS]

Never had any problems after machining the ears for full circle C clips and upgrading the U joints; although I do agree with your statements above which is why I later installed the front alloy axles.

 

[JMT]

I currently have 4.56 gears and I don't rock crawl. Mainly just forestry service roads and being in GA you're certain to encounter mud.

So I just discovered that my rear axle already had a TrueTrac in it and now have the refund to spend on the front axle.

From all I've read, the No-Slip and the Spartan Helical will be very civil on the street, with the exception of the PowerTrax being sketchy on snowy roads (not an issue here).

They are both now the exact same price.

Part of me likes the idea of a front helical to match the rear TrueTrac.

I guess my question really comes down to will I need to upgrade my front axle shafts with the No-Slip?

I know the stock shafts should be fine with the Spartan Helical.

If I can get away with the stock shafts I'll likely go No-Slip since I won't have to replace carrier bearings if I go that route.

Thanks for any info/tips!

I can’t speak to the helical in particular, but if you have 33’s and a locker on a Dana 30 you can break an ear. I have an PT No-Slip and broke a shaft that way. Ideally have 4340 Chromoly front axle With that setup.

 

[jazngab]

My setup is rear Trutrac and powertrax no slip in the front. On 33s and upgraded Yukon chromoly shafts in the Dana 30.

I think it’s a great setup and has worked very well with the combination of mild to medium rocks and mud/dirt here in the Northeast. Has gotten me everywhere I’ve needed to go. The no slip is great bang for your buck. Although if I could do it all over again, I’d get a selectable locker in the front only for the fact I can’t really use 4wd in snow and I don’t care for driving around locked on the trails if not needed. That all being said, I’d still recommend it. It’s half the price of a selectable locker and the install is easy to DIY.

If you say you won’t be doing any rocks, why not get a trutrac in the front to match the rear?

 

[RangerTJ]

My setup is rear Trutrac and powertrax no slip in the front. On 33s and upgraded Yukon chromoly shafts in the Dana 30.

I think it’s a great setup and has worked very well with the combination of mild to medium rocks and mud/dirt here in the Northeast. Has gotten me everywhere I’ve needed to go. The no slip is great bang for your buck. Although if I could do it all over again, I’d get a selectable locker in the front only for the fact I can’t really use 4wd in snow and I don’t care for driving around locked on the trails if not needed. That all being said, I’d still recommend it. It’s half the price of a selectable locker and the install is easy to DIY.

If you say you won’t be doing any rocks, why not get a trutrac in the front to match the rear?

I am indeed looking at the Spartan version of the Truetrac.

From what I've found it is "tighter" than the TT and a bit more aggressive.

I was leaning toward the No-Slip since it would be an easier install and no carrier bearings to mess with.

The helical would really make more sense for my type of trails.

So I guess it comes down to either paying for new carrier bearings (Spartan Helical) or new axle shafts (No-Slip).

I'll probably end up with the torsen in the front.