Did my 33s kill my Dana 35?

JoeyPhones

JoeyPhones

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Along with the 2.5" budget lift (1" body)? Or was it simply the 185k miles that destroyed the ring in this Dana 35?

We all know the Dana 35 is a weak unit, but I'm just trying to figure out if this was the setup I'm running or if it's simply wear and tear.

This TJ is basically a mall cruiser (don't judge me). There's maybe 5k miles on her since the upgrade from stock tires to the 33s and the lift kit (both were done at the same time)

All input is appreciated. I'd be nice to know what y'all think before I drop the coin on a Dana 44 or simply replace what's broken in this one.

Thanks in advance!
 
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I doubt it was the 33s and most likely just wear and tear. I just upgraded to 33s after running on 30s for 20 years and at 158k miles, the shop recommended replacing everything including the spider gears. This was with 19.5 years of mostly commuter use.

But using the recommended gear ratio for your Jeep and 33s also would not hurt and a good time to do that.
 
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JoeyPhones said:
Along with the 2.5" budget lift (1" body)? Or was it simply the 185k miles that destroyed the ring in this Dana 35?

We all know the Dana 35 is a weak unit, but I'm just trying to figure out if this was the setup I'm running or if it's simply wear and tear.

This TJ is basically a mall cruiser (don't judge me). There's maybe 5k miles on her since the upgrade from stock tires to the 33s and the lift kit (both were done at the same time)

All input is appreciated. I'd be nice to know what y'all think before I drop the coin on a Dana 44 or simply replace what's broken in this one.

Thanks in advance!
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It was probably wear and tear that took out your Dana 35. Both my brother and brother-in-law wheel on 33s with open dana 35s on stock axle shafts. My suggestion would be the super 35 kit since new gears are going in anyway.
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Rebuilding the existing Dana 35 may depend upon what the shop finds once they are inside and remove the carrier...
IF the insides are damaged; the OP could find himself in need of a new differential which would be an ideal time to upgrade to the Dana 44.
 
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deadbeat son said:
For everyone recommending a Super 35, why on earth does the OP need a locker for his stated use?

Also, if his ring gear failed, how will heavier duty axle shafts help with that?
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I agree, no need for a super 35. The OP says its just a mall cruiser, so it sounds like the ring just gave out from normal wear and tear.
If that were my situation I would just put in a fresh ring and pinion, maybe even upgrade to one from revolution or yukon and cruise on down to the mall
 
Good deal, I mean 2006 Rubicon Dana 44's with air lockers 70,000 miles $2500 for the pair. 4.10 gears
 
The only thing I might add is that do you wish for another gear ratio? Are you planning on changing driving styles? I don't think the ring gears and pinion are much different on the Dana 44s.

I'd be interested to see if you're cheap enough to pull the broken ring gear, clean out the case and then drive front wheel drive for awhile.

If you find a good deal, get the good deal btw.
 
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JoeyPhones said:
I've been able to locate a couple locally. I'm just trying to decide if it's worth the $$$
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How much? Price points are important…also do you have the ability and garage to handle the swap yourself? Obviously, a 44 is the better option but what’s the goal? Cost savings? Best?
 
deadbeat son said:
What is a super 35? What's it consist of?
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Slightly bigger axle shafts and new differential. The axle spline count is increased to 30 and you need 1541 alloy axles and not chromoly ie 4140 or 4340. Often this kits do include a locker, but that's not necessary.

I think these are slightly more robust than a OEM Dana 44. Some of us do prefer a Dana 35 for clearance, but it limits many builds because of strength for typically just really large LOCKED tires.

For your purposes I would just regear and go on, if I couldn't find an axle to swap out for a good price. Technically you don't even have to regear, but you'll lose 4wd and I'd probably rebuild my transfer case in the near future, because it seems like these chains can stretch.

In my area, finding someone to regear is expensive, so you might be able to find an axle, but I couldn't find one someone hadn't done major damage to.
 
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BugoutJeep said:
Slightly bigger axle shafts and new differential. The axle spline count is increased to 30 and you need 1541 alloy axles and not chromoly ie 4140 or 4340. Often this kits do include a locker, but that's not necessary.

I think these are slightly more robust than a OEM Dana 44. Some of us do prefer a Dana 35 for clearance, but it limits many builds because of strength for typically just really large LOCKED tires.

For your purposes I would just regear and go on, if I couldn't find an axle to swap out for a good price. Technically you don't even have to regear, but you'll lose 4wd and I'd probably rebuild my transfer case in the near future, because it seems like these chains can stretch.

In my area, finding someone to regear is expensive, so you might be able to find an axle, but I couldn't find one someone hadn't done major damage to.
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How do you use the ~10% larger diameter S35 shafts without a correspondingly sized locker? Do they fit in the stock carrier? Do the stock 27 spline spider gears fit on the 30 spline shafts?

Where can one find a “new differential” to fit the shafts that is not a locker?
 
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JoeyPhones said:
I've been able to locate a couple locally. I'm just trying to decide if it's worth the $$$
Click to expand...
Pokahpolice said:
How much? Price points are important…also do you have the ability and garage to handle the swap yourself? Obviously, a 44 is the better option but what’s the goal? Cost savings? Best?
Click to expand...
What gear ratio do you currently have? If you buy a 44, it may or may not be compatible, resulting in additional cost to re-gear. FWIW, your profile doesn't state the gear ratio, which will likely be 3.07 or 3.73. If yours is 3.73, you'll be in luck, because the non-Rubicon 44s had 3.73 gears in them. If it's 3.07 a re-gear will be needed.
 
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