DIY (No Drill) Temporary Snorkel

Stockish

Stockish

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Many of us find ourselves at sketchy crossings wishing we had a snorkel, or don't like the looks or sound of a safari snorkel. I have had water flush with the top of my fenders and had some water get into the airbox a few times, but not enough to get in the intake. This is a simple no drill temporary snorkel that is easy to put on and take off.

In no way is it watertight, it is only meant to be a bit of insurance for short crossings. If you wanted it to be watertight you would need to plug the airbox drains, silicone the adapter, grease the airbox lid, as well as raise the breather lines, and dielectric grease every connector. By then you could just buy an actual snorkel. Also, many would say that the 2.5" PVC is restricting, and the 10' long ribbed hose is too, they are correct. This may squeeze a few of the little tractor horsepowers you have. Oh, and don't drive with this on the highway.

Before you start, if you wanted an even simpler and faster snorkel you could just do a little bit of trimming and slide a 3" vacuum hose over the factory air horn and then clamp it down.

You will need a few tools available in any garage and a few parts from any local home improvement store.

Tools:
Handsaw

Parts:
10' Long 3" I.D. Pool/Vacuum Hose (15-20' would be better but not required)
At most 1' of 2-1/2" Schedule 40 PVC/Conduit (Used for swimming pools and electrical)
2-1/2" Conduit PVC Male Terminal Adapter (Found at Home Depot)
2-1/2" Conduit Locknut
3" Hose Clamp

Step 1
"Roughly" cut terminal adapter until there is 1 in. from the flange. Cut around 2" of 2.5" PVC and insert it into the terminal adapter. (May require a few taps from a hammer.) You can also glue the PVC together, but it is a snug fit. Take my measurements with a grain of salt and measure it all yourself.

Finished Product (Don't mind the poor quality cut and roughed up terminal adapter)
20220203_130954.jpg


Step 2

Remove the factory air horn by turning it, insert the adapter into the airbox and make sure it fits over any a/c lines. I put some small washers under the airbox to get more room. Snake the vacuum hose through the engine bay avoiding belts, hot things, and fans to wherever you want to go. Remove the adapter and put the vacuum hose over it with a hose clamp.

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Step 3 (Profit?)

With it pre-assembled, finagle the adapter into the airbox where the air horn was and put the locknut on the adapter. I put the locknut on backward so it would self-center with the bevel. You may need to cut out some little tabs in the bottom of the airbox to get it on perfect. You could also make a plate out of plastic so it would seal and fit better. I would not recommend using any permeant silicone on the adapter and airbox but any removable silicone could be applied around the adapter. The adapter is slightly less restricting than the factory air horn and could be kept on as a splash guard without the snorkel.

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I ran the hose above the PCV line and just over the frame behind the fender.

20220203_130757.jpg


From there you can attach it to your mirror. you could also use a longer hose and run it anywhere, such as in the cab or the roll bar.

20220203_130737.jpg
 
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In all seriousness, I can understand the concern. although I really don't like the implementation at all. There's a good chance of that setup having some big problems. I off-road where deep water crossings are a regular thing. I used to run a snorkel and can almost guarantee relocating the stock intake saved my engine on a few occurrences. Not because of the height but because it wasn't at the very front of the vehicle.

That being said you could (and it would be more beneficial, let alone easier) just disconnect your intake from the filter box, rotate it backwards toward your fire wall and tighten down the throttle body side. If you're concerned about water splashing into it, a CAI style pre filter zip tied would keep water from splashing in. If it is just temporary and for a specific crossing, running without a filter wont be a problem. If you want to run like that for a day then a CAI filter would be useful.

Since i've added my highlines, I have a CAI intake with a pre filter that ends near where the grille support meets the fire wall and haven't had any issues with water crossings. If you're playing in water I'd also highly recommend spending the time to seal up your connections and "water proof" anything that needs it. It doesn't matter if your intake is in a better spot if you ruin your electronics.

Hope it helps.
 
imahnu17 said:
In all seriousness, I can understand the concern. although I really don't like the implementation at all. There's a good chance of that setup having some big problems. I off-road where deep water crossings are a regular thing. I used to run a snorkel and can almost guarantee relocating the stock intake saved my engine on a few occurrences. Not because of the height but because it wasn't at the very front of the vehicle.

That being said you could (and it would be more beneficial, let alone easier) just disconnect your intake from the filter box, rotate it backwards toward your fire wall and tighten down the throttle body side. If you're concerned about water splashing into it, a CAI style pre filter zip tied would keep water from splashing in. If it is just temporary and for a specific crossing, running without a filter wont be a problem. If you want to run like that for a day then a CAI filter would be useful.

Since i've added my highlines, I have a CAI intake with a pre filter that ends near where the grille support meets the fire wall and haven't had any issues with water crossings. If you're playing in water I'd also highly recommend spending the time to seal up your connections and "water proof" anything that needs it. It doesn't matter if your intake is in a better spot if you ruin your electronics.

Hope it helps.
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Planning to test it out this weekend. I offroad at River Ranch and usually do it alone. It's very dusty and wet at the same time. To get literally anywhere there are hood deep crossings and any underhood intake would be submerged and possibly any cowl intake. I also want to fold my windshield down so no safari snorkel or raised cowl intake (wind noise as well). I know this project is only applicable to a few people. Mounting it at mirror height is perfectly fine because Jeeps start to float before the water overtops the doors and bedsides, this is first-hand experience.
 
I appreciate the ingenuity and applaud the inventiveness. Don't want to be a hater but when your fender deep you dont always see the rocks and shit under there. im just sayin you crush or tear that thing and you've essentially turned your intake into a wet dry vac.

I dont play in the water anymore... suck water in at 4k rpms, snap a crankshaft and throw a piston rod through the block will do that...
 
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Stockish said:
Planning to test it out this weekend. I offroad at River Ranch and usually do it alone. It's very dusty and wet at the same time. To get literally anywhere there are hood deep crossings and any underhood intake would be submerged and possibly any cowl intake. I also want to fold my windshield down so no safari snorkel or raised cowl intake (wind noise as well). I know this project is only applicable to a few people. Mounting it at mirror height is perfectly fine because Jeeps start to float before the water overtops the doors and bedsides, this is first-hand experience.
Click to expand...
I have a good amount of experience with hood deep water crossings as well. An intake near the back of the engine bay being submerged would mean your entire engine and virtually every electrical connection would be underwater, you'll have way more issues if that's the case. A correct bow wave should keep your engine bay from flooding even if your hood has water coming over the top of it.

Mirror height isn't much more than maybe 2-4" higher than hood height, plus you wouldn't have to worry about damaging the tube or getting it caught on something that tries to pull it off the mirror. I am eager to hear how it goes for you this weekend.
 
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imahnu17 said:
I have a good amount of experience with hood deep water crossings as well. An intake near the back of the engine bay being submerged would mean your entire engine and virtually every electrical connection would be underwater, you'll have way more issues if that's the case. A correct bow wave should keep your engine bay from flooding even if your hood has water coming over the top of it.

Mirror height isn't much more than maybe 2-4" higher than hood height, plus you wouldn't have to worry about damaging the tube or getting it caught on something that tries to pull it off the mirror. I am eager to hear how it goes for you this weekend.
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On my YJ I found that the distributor on my SBC ends up getting wet well before the hood goes fully underwater, I think this is due to the water being funneled in through the transmission tunnel, the same would happen to a rear-mounted intake. On the other hand, I have had water splash halfway up the windshield but not come over my half doors. All my connections are well dielectric greased and the computer is sealed. If I lose any sensors they needed to be replaced as they are over 15 years old. Planning to go to Microsquirt for its simplicity and its waterproof. My 05 computer is shot and I have plans for more power.
Bigmac said:
I appreciate the ingenuity and applaud the inventiveness. Don't want to be a hater but when your fender deep you dont always see the rocks and shit under there. im just sayin you crush or tear that thing and you've essentially turned your intake into a wet dry vac.

I dont play in the water anymore... suck water in at 4k rpms, snap a crankshaft and throw a piston rod through the block will do that...
Click to expand...
All we have down here are stumps and more logs. They are going to hit the factory shovel well before they hit the "wet-dry" vacuum hose. I've smashed in skids but never any body panels. Also don't think it could pull enough vacuum as the factory intake is poorly sealed.
 
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Stockish said:
Planning to test it out this weekend. I offroad at River Ranch and usually do it alone. It's very dusty and wet at the same time. To get literally anywhere there are hood deep crossings and any underhood intake would be submerged and possibly any cowl intake. I also want to fold my windshield down so no safari snorkel or raised cowl intake (wind noise as well). I know this project is only applicable to a few people. Mounting it at mirror height is perfectly fine because Jeeps start to float before the water overtops the doors and bedsides, this is first-hand experience.
Click to expand...

Sounds like you're one of the 1% that actually should have a snorkel. And I'm a "God hates snorkels" guy.
 
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Stockish said:
On my YJ I found that the distributor on my SBC ends up getting wet well before the hood goes fully underwater, I think this is due to the water being funneled in through the transmission tunnel, the same would happen to a rear-mounted intake. On the other hand, I have had water splash halfway up the windshield but not come over my half doors. All my connections are well dielectric greased and the computer is sealed. If I lose any sensors they needed to be replaced as they are over 15 years old. Planning to go to Microsquirt for its simplicity and its waterproof. My 05 computer is shot and I have plans for more power.

All we have down here are stumps and more logs. They are going to hit the factory shovel well before they hit the "wet-dry" vacuum hose. I've smashed in skids but never any body panels. Also don't think it could pull enough vacuum as the factory intake is poorly sealed.
Click to expand...
I think the point @Bigmac is trying to make is that even a log could cause the same issue. I've seen logs get stuck between a trucks axle and leaf springs and one get wedged in between the transfer case and tunnel. Easy to reason the same could happen to a plastic tube that hangs down.

I'll still have to disagree with you about the back of engine bay air intake. Could be due to a different driving style though. I've run that setup and never had water ingression. I've also had water hit my windshield while going through a crossing. never had my Jeep float but other vehicles with me have floated through the same crossings.

I am curious though, if these are the water crossing you go through, why not just install a snorkel and not worry about it at all?
 
imahnu17 said:
I think the point @Bigmac is trying to make is that even a log could cause the same issue. I've seen logs get stuck between a trucks axle and leaf springs and one get wedged in between the transfer case and tunnel. Easy to reason the same could happen to a plastic tube that hangs down.

I'll still have to disagree with you about the back of engine bay air intake. Could be due to a different driving style though. I've run that setup and never had water ingression. I've also had water hit my windshield while going through a crossing. never had my Jeep float but other vehicles with me have floated through the same crossings.

I am curious though, if these are the water crossing you go through, why not just install a snorkel and not worry about it at all?
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The safari snorkel on my YJ whistles quite loud on the highway and no matter what I do I can't get rid of it. I would also have to make a custom bracket from the snorkel to the lower windshield hinge, so I could fold the windshield down. As well as fighting to get the doors off and the weird look of a snorkel and dropped windshield. If there was a better snorkel that was quiet on the highway, tall enough for deepwater (No cowl snorkel), still able to fold the windshield down, and possibly replaced the airbox, please point me to it. It is a temporary snorkel because it is temporary. I was thinking of cutting a safari snorkel at about the hood line and making a custom snorkel. If I wanted to go ride rocks then I would drive 11 hours to Windrock, all Florida has is mud and water riding.
 
Stockish said:
The safari snorkel on my YJ whistles quite loud on the highway and no matter what I do I can't get rid of it. I would also have to make a custom bracket from the snorkel to the lower windshield hinge, so I could fold the windshield down. As well as fighting to get the doors off and the weird look of a snorkel and dropped windshield. If there was a better snorkel that was quiet on the highway, tall enough for deepwater (No cowl snorkel), still able to fold the windshield down, and possibly replaced the airbox, please point me to it. It is a temporary snorkel because it is temporary. I was thinking of cutting a safari snorkel at about the hood line and making a custom snorkel. If I wanted to go ride rocks then I would drive 11 hours to Windrock, all Florida has is mud and water riding.
Click to expand...
I’ve been looking at some different snorkel styles that are basically a straight pipe up to the roof line that has a very slight curve backward to keep rain out of it. My high lines have an access panel that I could run the tube through pretty easily. I don’t run full doors or a hardtop so a support bracket that goes to the windshield frame like how my Grabars mount would be easy to make and wouldn’t require drilling. Could also potentially make a mount for the side of the a pillar that allows the windshield to go down. I think it’d look better than the stereotypical snorkel style for TJs.

5BA4D201-4B0E-4F0A-A1EE-CDC1B4BABF0D.png
 
imahnu17 said:
I’ve been looking at some different snorkel styles that are basically a straight pipe up to the roof line that has a very slight curve backward to keep rain out of it. My high lines have an access panel that I could run the tube through pretty easily. I don’t run full doors or a hardtop so a support bracket that goes to the windshield frame like how my Grabars mount would be easy to make and wouldn’t require drilling. Could also potentially make a mount for the side of the a pillar that allows the windshield to go down. I think it’d look better than the stereotypical snorkel style for TJs.

View attachment 307103
Click to expand...
Australian style tig welded aluminum snorkels definitely look the best and would be durable. Might have to be one of the first to build one for a tj.
 
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It’s in the plans. I just gotta get my sliders rear springs and rear fenders done first. I may have to settle for mig welded lol
 
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