Watch out if you ever see a guy dressed up as a Rubicon locker.
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I have Eaton's front and rear Dana 30/Dana 44 . I got a great deal when someone I know ordered the wrong part numbers for his Jeep. I have never regretted it. Easy install and wire with no maintenance to speak of. If I had a gripe it would be that they are a little slow to disengage. The tire needs to rotate about 180 degrees before they unlock. Never been a big deal on the trail just something I have noticed. 4 years and no issues for me so far.I was looking at those, and I like the fact I wouldn't need to air them up. That is a plus for me.
I know the ARB has good rep. But I kinda wanted to lean toward the Eaton. I just wanted more info than the company website's glowing description. I want real world info, not unicorns and rainbows.
Your experience is the type I'm looking for, and what I'll need more of before I go drop the kind of cash I'll have to for a locker front and rear.
Thanks!
How far the tire turns has nothing to do with when they unlock. They are just like every other actuated locking clutch style locker. The actuation to lock or move the locking clutch to engage its other half has to overcome disengagement springs that push the two halves apart when it is unlocked. The disengagement springs have to be weaker than the engagement force or it won't be able to stay locked. So, when you unlock, the clutch teeth can not have any pressure on them from differentiation or one side turning faster than the other. That means they won't have enough pressure to push the two sides apart until a neutral state and zero pressure is achieved. That could be from 0 degrees of tire rotation to miles if you kept going in a circle.I have Eaton's front and rear Dana 30/Dana 44 . I got a great deal when someone I know ordered the wrong part numbers for his Jeep. I have never regretted it. Easy install and wire with no maintenance to speak of. If I had a gripe it would be that they are a little slow to disengage. The tire needs to rotate about 180 degrees before they unlock. Never been a big deal on the trail just something I have noticed. 4 years and no issues for me so far.
Wrong line. I'm in the other one.Good answer.
BTW, blow me.
Wrong line. I'm in the other one.
You're just playing hard to get.You will be waiting forever. I've fixed my post. The image of you showing up at my house after midnight all made up and hoping to get lucky was giving me nightmares.
And I don't have any experience with these units, I've just been reading reviews. Which all reviews seem to only highlight the negative because guys without issues with their gear don't bitch.
Well, that is a fairly bullshit comparison. Adding a few additional circuits to a vehicle that is rife with circuits critical to its operation is nowhere near the same as something where being a fuck up can seriously damage you, your rig, or innocent bystanders.that's the key.
It seems between Eaton and ARB they are both reliable enough that there's no reason to choose one over the other beyond personal preference. I personally am much more comfortable diagnosing electrical issues than chasing air leaks, and I didn't have an existing air source on the Jeep, so I went with Eaton. If I'd had air already, I might have gone with ARB. I do find it funny how as a forum collectively we're so concerned with how a Factor 55 link doesn't eliminate a possible failure point in a winch line, but we don't blink an eye when comparing a simple electrical circuit to effectively the same circuit plus a solenoid valve, an air pump, and air lines.
Well, that is a fairly bullshit comparison. Adding a few additional circuits to a vehicle that is rife with circuits critical to its operation is nowhere near the same as something where being a fuck up can seriously damage you, your rig, or innocent bystanders.
The number one rule of vehicle mods is NOT add no additional circuits that will stop proper function. The number one rule of rigging is to minimize the number of failure points or connections. That and anyone that believes this is a good way to do anything recovery related is an idiot.
That all makes sense.How far the tire turns has nothing to do with when they unlock. They are just like every other actuated locking clutch style locker. The actuation to lock or move the locking clutch to engage its other half has to overcome disengagement springs that push the two halves apart when it is unlocked. The disengagement springs have to be weaker than the engagement force or it won't be able to stay locked. So, when you unlock, the clutch teeth can not have any pressure on them from differentiation or one side turning faster than the other. That means they won't have enough pressure to push the two sides apart until a neutral state and zero pressure is achieved. That could be from 0 degrees of tire rotation to miles if you kept going in a circle.
If you want to know, simply jack up one side, lock it, turn the tire until it locks, hold the tire against the clutches with the pressure of one finger pulling on a tire lug. Have someone hit the switch to unlock. The tire won't move because the locker can't unlock with pressure on it.
You didn't toss it in the trash yet?Yep, I have mine sitting in the garage after replacing it with a PSC box.
Doc. All the best stuff is made in Japan!A Japanese company? Well color me surprised!
Nope, it probably has some value.You didn't toss it in the trash yet?
I was joking about this exchange:Nope, it probably has some value.
Looking forward to seeing it. Let me know if your still willing to part with your old 03-06 steering shaft
FML, I tossed it in the trash last week. I completely forgot