Durango steering box swap gone wrong!

RK TJ

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Joined
Jul 28, 2019
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30
Location
Colorado
I swapped out my TJ steering box for a 1998 Durango steering box (non snow plow V8 option) last night (see very bottom for reason) Everything went pretty smoothly until I drove it.

I bleed the lines with the wheels off the ground and 25-35 lock to lock turns (engine not running). Fluid was added throughout the process. Once fluid levels remained consistent I started the engine and continued to turn lock to lock, adding a little fluid until fluid level remained consistent again.

As I was turning the wheel Lock to lock during the bleeding process I noticed x2 a binding “feel” then it released and continued turning.

I then took it for a drive.........there is something not right! There is significant binding when turning. It occurs a couple times while steering but is smooth at others times. One of the binding moments is occurring as I begin to turn to the right which is really sketchy. The feel on the road is really “twitchy”, way more than before the swap. While driving I kept my speed under 25mph

Anyone else have this issue? I need some advice and help. Did I do something wrong during the swap?

some background of why I did the swap........ I’m running 35’s, new teraflex ball joints, new Currie link drag link/tie rod. Prior to the swap I was experiencing “clunking” noise when turning that was coming from my steering box. I also had some significant slop in my steering wheel between 11-1 o’clock. The steering shaft had no slop in it. The delayed response was coming from the steering box to the pitman arm. Due to the slop in the steering, clunking noise from steering box and all the new components that are installed (ball joints, 1 ton tie/rod) I figured I would swap to a Durango box to accommodate my 35 inch tire, maybe fix the slop in the steering wheel and prevent a steering box failure on the trail
 
I swapped out my TJ steering box for a 1998 Durango steering box (non snow plow V8 option) last night (see very bottom for reason) Everything went pretty smoothly until I drove it.

I bleed the lines with the wheels off the ground and 25-35 lock to lock turns (engine not running). Fluid was added throughout the process. Once fluid levels remained consistent I started the engine and continued to turn lock to lock, adding a little fluid until fluid level remained consistent again.

As I was turning the wheel Lock to lock during the bleeding process I noticed x2 a binding “feel” then it released and continued turning.

I then took it for a drive.........there is something not right! There is significant binding when turning. It occurs a couple times while steering but is smooth at others times. One of the binding moments is occurring as I begin to turn to the right which is really sketchy. The feel on the road is really “twitchy”, way more than before the swap. While driving I kept my speed under 25mph

Anyone else have this issue? I need some advice and help. Did I do something wrong during the swap?

some background of why I did the swap........ I’m running 35’s, new teraflex ball joints, new Currie link drag link/tie rod. Prior to the swap I was experiencing “clunking” noise when turning that was coming from my steering box. I also had some significant slop in my steering wheel between 11-1 o’clock. The steering shaft had no slop in it. The delayed response was coming from the steering box to the pitman arm. Due to the slop in the steering, clunking noise from steering box and all the new components that are installed (ball joints, 1 ton tie/rod) I figured I would swap to a Durango box to accommodate my 35 inch tire, maybe fix the slop in the steering wheel and prevent a steering box failure on the trail
The bind to one side is likely due to an over tight lash on the sector gear and a worn bore. That and the Durango box is a shit swap.
 
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Thank you for the quick reply. So your saying the remanufactured box i bought last night is faulty and needs to be returned? Besides a PCS box what would you recommend
 
Thank you for the quick reply. So your saying the remanufactured box i bought last night is faulty and needs to be returned? Besides a PCS box what would you recommend
I don't recommend. The problem with ALL reman boxes is the core. If the core is shit, they can't rebuild that and you get a box with a shit rebuild.
 
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I don't recommend. The problem with ALL reman boxes is the core. If the core is shit, they can't rebuild that and you get a box with a shit rebuild.
Is there a new box that anybody would recommend? A new PCS box and pump is too much money for me right now.
 
Is there a new box that anybody would recommend? A new PCS box and pump is too much money for me right now.
Crown has a new box. I have no experience with it and knowing Crown it can range from good to a flaming pile of mechanical poo. Do not get a PSC reman, your chances of getting a good one are no better than any other reman and they don't need the bad press.
 
I picked up a NAPA reman'd box. I think it was $150 with a $177 core charge(!). Its been ok, though I think I am developing play again after about a year and a half on my DD with 35s
 
I took another look at my install last night to figure out the source of the bind......again another reason to take a picture of how components are installed prior to disassembly.

I orientation of the return hose installed incorrectly. The metal hose was out of position placed closely to the lower steering shaft connection point. The bolt that tightens down and connects the lower steering shaft to the steering box was rubbing the metal hose every full rotation of the steering wheel. Luckily the rubbing did not ruin the metal hose

I took it for a test drive and my slop in the steering wheel has been greatly reduced and the twitchy feel is not present. Hopefully I get some life out of this remanufactured box
 
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