E12 Torx Trouble

C

ClaireDanas

New Member
Joined
Jun 6, 2021
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8
Location
New Orleans, LA
Hey y'all,

I'm having a stupid amount of trouble getting the exhaust side E12 torx bolt off the top of the bell housing; I've spent a solid six hours over three days trying to get at this thing, nothing. I'm pretty sure it's not stripped, I'm getting enough grip on the thing where it'd slip or grind if that's the case. The driver side bolt came off without too much trouble.

I've tried several different heights with the transmission jack, tried getting at it with a universal socket through the hole for the shifter, tried a frankenstein double-extension bar swivel setup, I've put three rounds of penetrator on it (admittedly that may have been washed away because New Orleans always, always rains in summer).

At this point I'm down to buying one of those cheap, low-power extendable impact wrenches from Harbor Freight or just cutting the thing off with a dremel as the last options I can think of. Either way I'm hoping someone has a trick I'm missing before I sink another $100+ into a tool that won't see much use.
 
heat + pb blaster is a favorite combination of mine, especially if you can get to the actual threads of the bolt. I can't remember if that bolt goes clear through or not. I don't think it does...

Also, I assume you've used a longer lever arm i.e. breaker bar to multiply your force?
 
I've had similar trouble & I'm not a fan of cutting bolt heads until its a last resort so try this.

I cant remember exactly how much but get about 2' of extensions so you can get far enough back to use a breaker bar, don't use any elbows/swivels unless you have to because you forfeit quite a bit of torque & get a buddy to apply pressure while you twist. Let the tranmission down as far as you can for access.

If it's not stripped you just need a hell of a lot of torque

I swapped my to standard hex head after I got mine off & it's probably the best $2 I have ever spent on the Jeep, just FYI
 
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You need to remove those bolts first. The very first ones you even touch on the bell housing.

If you have any bolts out put them back and try that etorx again.

Its a pain but the only way I have found. If you grind off the head, they come off stupid easy, almost finger tight.

Its nuts. I went through this on an XJ. Only once and never again lol
 
Yeah man this one sucks. Currently going through a rebuild and spent three days working on the two bolts. Finally got it after putting all the other bolts back and and torquing them up and dropping the tranny as low as i could. Had to use 3 lengths of extensions to get to it run alongside the trans. Jeep had to be on jacks to get clearance for the breaker bar. I wish you the best of luck. Ill bee replacing them with standard hex when im done with the rebuild.
 
With the t-case skidplate removed, the rear of the transmission/transfer case should droop enough to give solid access to the E-12 torx bolt. It does require 4-5 extensions between the ratchet and E-12 but with that I never had a problem getting it out. I wouldn't be able to get it out without a butt-load of extensions between the E-12 and ratchet wrench. I use a 1/2 to 3/8" adapter to allow the use of a 1/2" ratchet wrench for more leverage against the E-12 bolt.
 
As others have posted.... with the other bolts removed the transmission is applying a lot more pressure on that bolt.
Reinstall the other bolts and torque them down to 5 ft/lbs above the recommended torque setting, apply a qood quality creeping penetrant such as Kroil to the problem bolt, let it sit for about 30 minutes and again try removing the bolt.
 
Last edited:
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Thanks so much for this, everyone. Charles, I don't know why I didn't think of that; I haven't touched the other bolts at all, I knew the top two were going to be the problem children so I didn't think about torquing them at all. Jerry, too, thank you; I used my 3/8 breaker but also didn't consider an adapter.

Since there's no kill like overkill, it'll probably be a bit of all of the above. If it ever stops raining.

Thanks again y'all.
 
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Another tip that has helped me out..get a helper to guide the 38 feet of extensions and socket onto the heads of the bolts and make sure the helper let's you know if you arent on Square
 
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Last time i went through the shifter box. It was miserable but seemed less miserable than going from underneath. The right combinations of extensions is everything. Also very important to let the transmission droop to create space.
 
Jerry Bransford said:
With the t-case skidplate removed, the rear of the transmission/transfer case should droop enough to give solid access to the E-12 torx bolt. It does require 4-5 extensions between the ratchet and E-12 but with that I never had a problem getting it out. I wouldn't be able to get it out without a butt-load of extensions between the E-12 and ratchet wrench. I use a 1/2 to 3/8" adapter to allow the use of a 1/2" ratchet wrench for more leverage against the E-12 bolt.
Click to expand...
This should give lots of room
 
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My engine is coming out soon. Do all 2004 4.0s have the evil bolts?
Has anyone tried removing the motor mounts and lower the engine and get them from the top?
 
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