Hello Jeep Fans, I'm back and hunting Mr. Sparky.
Having been out of country for the past few months I was finally able to start the trouble shooting procedures as provided by G. Hayduke. Here's what I found and where I"m currently at in the troubleshooting process.
Having tested the negative lead paths for engine, frame and body, we have a good ground with new larger wires. The positive lead wire from the battery to ground was showing a short. From this point I started removing relays and fuses to isolate each circuit, but found no fuse or relay that opened the circuit. I removed the battery, disconnect all positive lead wires from the starter to the alternator, then started testing from the alternator positive lead to ground. I still had a short from the alternator positive lead to the body of the alternator. This lead me to believe my alternator had a dead internal short. I removed the alternator, put in on a test stand at a local parts store and it failed test. Great new I had a bad alternator!!! However, before replacing the alternator I was concerned something else drove the short, causing the brake line to turn red-hot and damaged the alternator. I continued my troubleshooting to ensure I had identified the problem before installing a new battery and alternator. Bad News??? During my continued troubleshooting I found another dead short to the positive side of them main fuse box, where the two 10mm studs are. With all positive lead wires removed from the fuse box, meter connected between the positive post on the fuse box and the meter negative lead connected to ground on the frame I got a short when I turn my ignition key from the locked position, through the accessory position to the start engine position. Yes, when ignition key in the off or accessory position I am not showing or getting a tone for short. When I rotate the key to the start position I get a tone indicating a short. I then returned to the fuse box and removed the 20 amp fuse for the starter and the tone end, I opened the circuit. I replace the fuse and got the tone, but disconnect the wire going to my starter relay and the tone continued.
Current situation: I am showing a short between my ignition keyed switch to one terminal lead of the 20 amp fuse slot. With the fused removed I can test the copper color connector to ground, no tone. When I test the other fuse connector pin, silver or common color pin, I get tone on my meter. Therefore, I believe I have a short in the wiring somewhere between that common fuse pin and the ignition switch.
I have identified which wire bundle connector at the steering column has this wire in it. When I am getting a tone I can unplug this black connector from the switching plastic thingly at the column and the tone ends. I will start ringing out the wires from this black plus to the common colored terminal at the fuse box. At some point I should get a tone when I identify/touch the right wire. At that point I will start tracing this wire from the connect back towards the fire wall. Being this wire bundle arches over the steering column and flex any time the steering column is adjusted up or down I"m sure their is some chafing going on. In addition, when I opened up this area of the steering column I also found as some one in time someone had been in this area to splice in/connect an anti-theft device.
I think I'm on the right path, but it has now started raining here in North Carolina so I called it quits, but knew I owed you all an update.
Having done my best to highlight my troubleshooting process does anyone have any other recommendation for this new discover of the short to ground when I turn the ignition switch to the start position?
Thanks everyone for your help.