Engine codes clear after engine cuts out

R

Richard Barnett

New Member
Joined
Jan 23, 2020
Messages
2
Location
SoCal
Hey Guys,

I'm new to the Jeep world and got my fist one last week, I think I got stiffed on the purchased 2006 4.0 Auto LJ Rubicon not so honest seller DMV back feeds and cleared codes all of which he said the opposite. Any way its mine now and I'll let me lawyer deal with him .
Here are a list of issues that I'm having if anyone has some good ideas please let me know .

1. P0431 Cat Bank 2 issue, I replaced all 4 O2 sensors with NTK ones and tightened down the Cat bolts and cleared the code then drove until it gave me the code again, did this 3 times and still the code comes back, just ordered the full 3 cat system from rock auto will be here Jan30th hopefully that solves the problem.

2. This is the strange one, driving down the freeway about 60MPH for 30 min, engine cuts out all dash lights ok and it beeped at me, got over to the hard shoulder and tried restarting, dash lights all good but it wouldn't crank ( no flat battery systems of not cranking just wouldn't crank) , talked to the CHP and AAA for about 45min and just for fun I tried starting it again and bingo it started just fine, but I noticed no engine light I cheeked and it wiped the P0431 code off the PCM and all of the emissions data was deleted, its like it lost power to the PCM and reset everything, FYI engine light came back on 30 miles later. Any ideas

3. Front diff lock light one the switch is now not working, haven't cheeked to see if the front is locking yet but its on my to do list this weekend.

4. Top of the hood feels hot after a good run, this is apparently normal ?? if so any good ideas to keep it cooler in the engine bay, may be hood vents or something ?


FYI, I talked to the guy at wrangler fix and he didn't think it was the 05/06 PCM issue

Thanks in advance
 
The hood heat is normal.

Have you taken a look to see if the converters themselves are bad? If you buy a cheap borescope you can look through the oxygen sensor holes at the catalyst. (Alternatively, you can drop the skid and unbolt the catalytic converters from the manifold and the cat-back.). Things to look for are clogged holes, excessive carbon or soot, melted or misshapen catalyst, loose parts rattling in the pipe, or even no catalyst (that happened to me recently). The catalytic converter assembly for California emissions is not cheap (~$1k) so I could see a sketchy dealer trying to get out of replacing it.

For the locker best to just test it. Is the light just flashing or does not not come on at all?

Check all of the battery and alternator leads and terminals for corrosion. Disconnect each one and clean it with steel wool until it is shiny. This includes all ring terminals, posts, clamps, etc. Any contact between electrical components should be shiny. If there’s any battery corrosion on the posts, clean it off with baking soda and water paste.
Check all of the grounds, especially the grounds for the engine, PCM, alternator, etc.
Any loose wires or bad connections will cause very frustrating intermittent issues.
 
Update,

Engine won’t crank problem fixed, found one of the plugs on the fire wall not plugged in all the way.
Lockers now working not sure why.

3 new cats on the way, will install next week and update.

It’s not funny the amount of problem this thing has ... lol, new issue today, I got stuck in reverse, on investigation I found the plastic bush/ clip that holds the eye of the shifter selector shaft on the side of the auto transmission broken and destroyed. Looks pretty flimsy, anyone know of an upgrade part for this or I might just weld a stud on the selector arm and use a lock nut ?

Also while looking at the transmission selector lever it looks like the rubicrawler selector cable mount could prevent the transmission selector going into 1st or 2nd. Anyone had this issue ?
cheers
Rich
 
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