Engine Mounts

[jeep_boss]

Planning on swapping my motor mounts next week. I have a slight twist in th passenger side metal strap that goes over the rubber / bolt.

What is the concenceous on the M.O.R.E. Bomb Proof mounts?

Looking to upgrade from stock with something else that'll hold up to my potential abuse. I'm using a new rubber / non-poly transmission mount, and if I can read still, mixing rubber and poly is a no-no for vibration.

Cheers

 

[JMT]

M.O.R.E are great mounts. So are Brown Dog. Both are beefy. I have the Dog. Rubber all the way...

 

[Chris]

I know @Jerry Bransford seems to prefer the M.O.R.E. mounts over the Brown Dog mounts. I never asked him why, but I took his recommendation on the M.O.R.E. mounts and I'm quite happy with them.

 

[Mike_H]

I have a set of the bombproof mounts waiting to be installed. They are quite substantial. Don't think you can go wrong.

 

[jeep_boss]

I know @Jerry Bransford seems to prefer the M.O.R.E. mounts over the Brown Dog mounts. I never asked him why, but I took his recommendation on the M.O.R.E. mounts and I'm quite happy with them.

I'm guessing the man sees an advantage of some sort to them, I'll go ahead and go that route then for sure!

 

[jeep_boss]

Can't figure out if I need the ones with the 1" lift or not. :BangHead:

 

[JMT]

If you've done a suspension lift and you got driveline vibes, a 1" motor mount lift (MML) is a way to avoid having to do a TCase drop. But I think you have a Rubi, so you have a fixed yoke, and I can't see why you would have vibes. So I don't see a need. The only time to do a MML in your situation is if you are doing a 1"BL. Those pair well together and when you do them together you don't have to move the fan shroud.

 

[jeep_boss]

If you've done a suspension lift and you got driveline vibes, a 1" motor mount lift (MML) is a way to avoid having to do a TCase drop. But I think you have a Rubi, so you have a fixed yoke, and I can't see why you would have vibes. So I don't see a need. The only time to do a MML in your situation is if you are doing a 1"BL. Those pair well together and when you do them together you don't have to move the fan shroud.

Yeah that's the thing. I started getting some vibrations from the rear after replacing my trans mount last week. They aren't nearly as bad as the u-joint issue that I fixed, but I wondered about that trans mount (having lifted my transmission a little more than it was) being the cause.

My passenger side engine mount is screwed up. I ordered the non-1" lift mounts, so I'll see how it feels after I install them.

 

[JMT]

Yeah that's the thing. I started getting some vibrations from the rear after replacing my trans mount last week. They aren't nearly as bad as the u-joint issue that I fixed, but I wondered about that trans mount (having lifted my transmission a little more than it was) being the cause.

My passenger side engine mount is screwed up. I ordered the non-1" lift mounts, so I'll see how it feels after I install them.

. See how it goes and I’d look at the tranny mount. If it raised it you may need to change your rear pinion angle so it’s facing directly at the TCase output.

 

[jeep_boss]

. See how it goes and I’d look at the tranny mount. If it raised it you may need to change your rear pinion angle so it’s facing directly at the TCase output.

I wound up ordering the poly engine mounts instead of the rubber ones. I really don't like the new rubber trans mount that is on there, and I have a new beefier poly trans mount that I got before reading about the issues of mixing rubber and poly.

I can deal with the added engine vibes, but I will definitely recheck my pinion angle when they're installed to make sure it's right. Also the damn magnet keeps coming off my angle - who designs these things?!

 

[Mike_H]

. See how it goes and I’d look at the tranny mount. If it raised it you may need to change your rear pinion angle so it’s facing directly at the TCase output.

Did I miss where he said he has a double carden driveshaft? That is the only time you'd want the pinion pointing at the T-Case. The stock rubicon driveshaft is NOT double carden, so the pinion should be parallel to the t-case output.

 

[jeep_boss]

Did I miss where he said he has a double carden driveshaft? That is the only time you'd want the pinion pointing at the T-Case. The stock rubicon driveshaft is NOT double carden, so the pinion should be parallel to the t-case output.

All good. I have a double cardan on my t-case side.

 

[jeep_boss]

Mounts came in today. Looks like fun installing these guys - judging from the FSM and component blockage under my hood, it looks like a lot of the removal and installation efforts happen through the bottom of the engine bay.

Does that sound right?

 

[Chris]

Mounts came in today. Looks like fun installing these guys - judging from the FSM and component blockage under my hood, it looks like a lot of the removal and installation efforts happen through the bottom of the engine bay.

Does that sound right?

View attachment 28635

Yep, that sounds right indeed!

 

[JMT]

Mounts came in today. Looks like fun installing these guys - judging from the FSM and component blockage under my hood, it looks like a lot of the removal and installation efforts happen through the bottom of the engine bay.

Does that sound right?

View attachment 28635

Yep, passenger side is easier. Do it first but don't tighten everything up till your done with the driver's side too. Since they're not 1" lifted, but stock height, you may be able to do both from the top side. If not, it should still be easier to fish the driver's side one up through from underneath than it was for me with the 1" lifted one's. Also, I'm sure you know about the bolt on the driver's side OEM mount. In most of our Jeeps you can't get it to slide right out of the mount because it runs into something. All you need to do is take a look to see if you'll have that problem. I can't remember if I cut mine off, or what, but I used all new hardware, so I think that's what I did.

 

[jeep_boss]

Yep, passenger side is easier. Do it first but don't tighten everything up till your done with the driver's side too. Since they're not 1" lifted, but stock height, you may be able to do both from the top side. If not, it should still be easier to fish the driver's side one up through from underneath than it was for me with the 1" lifted one's. Also, I'm sure you know about the bolt on the driver's side OEM mount. In most of our Jeeps you can't get it to slide right out of the mount because it runs into something. All you need to do is take a look to see if you'll have that problem. I can't remember if I cut mine off, or what, but I used all new hardware, so I think that's what I did.

Thanks. The problem that I'm seeing with mine on the driver's side will be sliding it out to the left (towards the front of the Jeep). It looks like there will probably be interference from the AC hardware bolted to the left of the mount.

I'll get a couple of new replacements bolts this afternoon, I was already considering having to cut them :/

 

[jeep_boss]

These bolts look to be 140mm btw. M12 x 1.75 @140mm sound right?

 

[jeep_boss]

Got the passenger side mount in. Need to grab a new thinncutting disk for my angle grinder to get this other bolt out. Had they have bolted it in the opposite way, it would have came right out! Damn you again, Chrysler!!!

 

[JMT]

Got the passenger side mount in. Need to grab a new thinncutting disk for my angle grinder to get this other bolt out. Had they have bolted it in the opposite way, it would have came right out! Damn you again, Chrysler!!!

You can get it out partially, then you’ll have room to cut it off.

Of course, when you put the new grade 8 hardware in there, you’ll slip it in the other side so you’ll be golden!

 

[jeep_boss]

You can get it out partially, then you’ll have room to cut it off.

Of course, when you put the new grade 8 hardware in there, you’ll slip it in the other side so you’ll be golden!

Done. I love it when a plan comes together. The only real tough part of the job was using my new angle grinder from underneath. I wound up buying the wrong size thin cutting discs, and had to use the big diablos. Burned the shit out of my face in that process (my face shield disappeared on me)!

Haven't installed that poly trans mount yet, but I took it for a quick test drive. Idle is cool now, a nice bass effect in the cabin. Rides very smooth up until 70mph, when cruising at or above 70 - I'm getting a light, but noticeable sine wave vibration from my rear driveline. Transmount bolts appeared to have moved slightly forward (compensating for the slight lift in the new engine mounts),

We'll see what happens with the sine wave vibration when I get the poly trans mount installed (probably on Thursday). I think that vibration has always been there, but now it's more of a pulsation.