Engine Mounts

[JMT]

Done. I love it when a plan comes together. The only real tough part of the job was using my new angle grinder from underneath. I wound up buying the wrong size thin cutting discs, and had to use the big diablos. Burned the shit out of my face in that process (my face shield disappeared on me)!

Haven't installed that poly trans mount yet, but I took it for a quick test drive. Idle is cool now, a nice bass effect in the cabin. Rides very smooth up until 70mph, when cruising at or above 70 - I'm getting a light, but noticeable sine wave vibration from my rear driveline. Transmount bolts appeared to have moved slightly forward (compensating for the slight lift in the new engine mounts),

We'll see what happens with the sine wave vibration when I get the poly trans mount installed (probably on Thursday). I think that vibration has always been there, but now it's more of a pulsation.

View attachment 28676
View attachment 28677

Nice work! Those will last forever. MORE= Mountain Off-Road Experience. I didn’t know what that stood for. Cool! Looks great

 

[mrblaine]

You can get it out partially, then you’ll have room to cut it off.

Of course, when you put the new grade 8 hardware in there, you’ll slip it in the other side so you’ll be golden!

We quit cutting the bolt many years ago. Now we just pull the 3 bolts in the mount on the block, remove the whole mess, remove the bolt, and then bolt the mount back onto the block. Too much risk of damage to someone else's rig with the grinder in there. That and I prefer to keep the fasteners OEM when possible.

 

[derekmac]

We quit cutting the bolt many years ago. Now we just pull the 3 bolts in the mount on the block, remove the whole mess, remove the bolt, and then bolt the mount back onto the block. Too much risk of damage to someone else's rig with the grinder in there. That and I prefer to keep the fasteners OEM when possible.

Have you run into any issues with any of those three bolts breaking when removing them?

 

[CodaMan]

...Now we just pull the 3 bolts in the mount on the block, remove the whole mess, remove the bolt, and then bolt the mount back onto the block...

That's how I did it. Worked perfectly.

 

[mrblaine]

Have you run into any issues with any of those three bolts breaking when removing them?

The only broken ones we have dealt with are when they were loose and not caught by the owners and that snapped 1 or 2 before they caught it. All the normal ones we have removed have never been a problem.

 

[Camdenst]

I did brown dog with the UCF lopro... definitely noticed vibes with the tranny mount. Nothing much driving just heavy or full accelerations.

 

[TJ2]

jeep_boss your under chassis is too clean.

 

[jeep_boss]

jeep_boss your under chassis is too clean.

LOL! What can I say, im OCD

 

[jeep_boss]

Left my new transmission mount in my friend's garage, dying to get it installed. Having the itch to get this all finished, I picked up some washers and lock nuts today and threw them on the new mounts. The lock nuts are probably overkill, but I wasn't too thrilled with the other ones.

I have my engine support process dialed now - took about 10 minutes in my driveway for each side for pulling the bolts out, reinstalling, and re-torquing them down.

That said, I'm hoping they hold up to my planned abuse after I get my new rear axles!

 

[jeep_boss]

We quit cutting the bolt many years ago. Now we just pull the 3 bolts in the mount on the block, remove the whole mess, remove the bolt, and then bolt the mount back onto the block. Too much risk of damage to someone else's rig with the grinder in there. That and I prefer to keep the fasteners OEM when possible.

That was going to be my alternative, I can't remember where I read to do that (thought it was in the FSM, but I can't find it again if it was). Lucked out and had just enough room to get in there cleanly to cut with that fat diablo disc - seemed like it would be a pain trying to get to one of the block bolts with all the shit in the way.