Engine won't reach normal temperature after cooling system replacement
- Thread starter ChristopherJ
- Start date
OP
Crap. I was afraid of that. I flushed it 4 times, I thought it was taking so long because the radiator was full of that stuff, decided to just swap out a clean one. I have been considering one of those treatment chemicals. I should use that with water, not antifreeze, right?
Depends on the flush. We use them with coolant but the one we use works with coolant. Read the directions.
OP
Ah, Mr. Blaine, you're the person I ordered my netsert from, yes? I'll be installing that today. Thanks!
I'll pick up a bottle of cleaner today. There's water in it now, so I'll get the one that works with that.
These systems don’t bleed out the air as easily as some other cars. You’ll be doing the heat up, let cool, top off bit a few times to get all the air out. While this is happening you will get some weird temp gauge readings and heater fluctuations.
If someone local to you has a vacuum coolant system filler it will save you all that effort.
Otherwise just run, cool, top off, repeat.
If someone local to you has a vacuum coolant system filler it will save you all that effort.
Otherwise just run, cool, top off, repeat.
The information at the website link doesn't specifically say if it's a failsafe type but its name and your symptoms sure imply it is. I'd replace it with either the Stant SuperStat 45359, the more basic Stant 13009, or Mopar. From your symptoms I would not believe your problem is caused by air in the system or that it needs burping.
OP
Yes. It was excellent. Thank you for the great instructions. Went on easy, welded down, good to go. One more problem solved.
OP
I do know someone who can probably do that. It's still got water in it, when I switch over to antifreeze I'll give him a call.
OP
I agree. I drove it several times today, and each time it cooled, I popped the cap. It was full, never required topping, and the reservoir level hasn't changed. I got the correct coolant sensor today, and when I pulled the old one out, there was water there, too. I'm ordering the Stant SuperStat now. Thanks.
OP
Last night I went for a drive, and when I got home and shut it down, I heard a gurgling waterfall sound from the motor. It lasted at least 10 seconds, I think. Now I'm freaking out again. The coolant level has not dropped, It's full under the radiator cap, and the reservoir level is not dropping. I heard what sounded like a babbling stream, with lots of ticks that sounded like water drips, but louder than they should. Kind of like the normal ticks an engine makes when you turn it off, but louder and at a fixed tempo. Am I destroying my engine? I'm waiting for my new Stant thermostat, but I went and bought a cheap one at autozone for the mean time. I'll drill a hole. Do I need to have this thing vacuum purged or something? I fear that coolant isn't getting in the block somewhere. My temps are still staying at 170° to 180°. I'm going to purge the heater core at lunch if I have time. Can I put a water hose in the thermostat hole in the block while I have the housing off? I want to make sure there aren't any blockages in the block...
What should I do?
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That almost sounds like the noise engines make when the coolant is boiling. Can't remember, did you swap out the sensor yet?
OP
Stop going to Autozone for critical components like that, their Duralast parts are junk. Go to NAPA and ask for their 'premium' 195 degree thermostat. I'd run one without hesitation.
WDE
TJ Enthusiast
OP
This defective thermostat was the most expensive thermostat NAPA has. I ordered the Stant you recommended earlier, it won't be here until Thursday of next week. I just grabbed the one from autozone to get this defective one out and see what that does to my temps. I fully intend to install the Stant as soon as it gets here.
What do you think the sound I described indicates?
OP
Being the most expensive doesn't mean it wasn't the wrong kind (fail-safe) as yours most likely turned out to be. NAPA tends to carry better quality parts than Autozone does and they certainly had a non-failsafe thermostat for you. Their salesman was likely clueless and just gave you the most expensive when you asked for the best, thinking 'failsafe' sounded like the best. If I'm buying lubricants, brake cleaner, etc. Autozone is fine . But for anything critical that I need 'today' I go straight to NAPA.
Without hearing the sounds you're worried about it's impossible to know if there's a problem or not. With your temperature gauge not showing the engine is hot, especially since you have already replaced the temperature gauge sender, odds are the engine isn't being damaged by what you're hearing. Just keep checking the coolant level.
Get another paper gasket for the new thermostat, don't use RTV anywhere on the cooling system components.
The TJ's cooling system is designed to be self-burping so trapped air will eventually work its way out to the top of the radiator. Keeping it topped off with 50:50 coolant/water during the first couple days of driving gives it a chance to work all the air out.
OP
I actually didn't give the salesperson the chance to be clueless, the lack of clue was my own. I just thought "more expensive is probably the best," but I had never before heard of the distinction between "fail safe" and normal thermostats. Lesson learned. Right now there is no coolant in it, just distilled water. I wanted to flush it a few more times to get the brown out before using coolant. Now that I've typed that out, I wonder if that is harmful to the engine? I thought it was ok to use distilled water temporarily, but like I said, I lack clues.
I'm doing the heater flush today, then I'll flush the water out and start putting coolant in it.
Pure distilled water is fine for short-term use but coolant also contains a lubricant for the water pump and anti-corrosives for the system as a whole.