Exhaust Header Recommendations

S

sohllis

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Mar 27, 2018
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Location
Altamonte Springs, FL, USA
As the title states, I'm just looking for some recommendations on exhaust header for my 2005 4.0 (6 speed).

Reason for replacement: burning smell when accelerating in fifth and sixth gear in addition to faint tapping noise during a cold start up

I see some folks going with cheaper models from eBay with the felpro manifold gasket. Is this a safe route? I don't want to do another exhaust header job by next year. I need reliability and peace of mind

Thanks
 
None of those symptoms would make me think only of the factory header. What viscosity engine oil are you running & could your oil filter's anti-drainback valve be leaking allowing the oil to drain out of the engine's top-end when doing a cold start? A burning smell during acceleration in 5th/6th gears? 6th is not normally a gear to be used for acceleration, but I'm still not sure how you'd get a burning smell from accelerating in 5th & 6th gears.

A cracked header can cause a ticking sound, try using a short length of rubber hose with one end held to your ear and the other end directed to various points around the headers to see if the ticking sound is indeed coming from there or if as suggested, perhaps the valve lifters are tapping during the cold start.
 
I recently installed a dorman replacement.

The first one I picked up from parts store had some quality control issues and couldn't be installed correctly. Second one I got fit perfect.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk
 
Jerry Bransford said:
None of those symptoms would make me think only of the factory header. What viscosity engine oil are you running & could your oil filter's anti-drainback valve be leaking allowing the oil to drain out of the engine's top-end when doing a cold start? A burning smell during acceleration in 5th/6th gears? 6th is not normally a gear to be used for acceleration, but I'm still not sure how you'd get a burning smell from accelerating in 5th & 6th gears.

A cracked header can cause a ticking sound, try using a short length of rubber hose with one end held to your ear and the other end directed to various points around the headers to see if the ticking sound is indeed coming from there or if as suggested, perhaps the valve lifters are tapping during the cold start.
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I should have described the smell. It doesn't smell like oil or electrical. The best way I could describe the scent is that of seaweed or mud. It's quite unusual.
 
Jerry Bransford said:
What viscosity engine oil are you running & could your oil filter's anti-drainback valve be leaking allowing the oil to drain out of the engine's top-end
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Hey Jerry, is this a common occurrence? I'm not familiar with a filters anti-drainback valve. I'm assuming that's a part of the actual filter.?
 
Eddie Greenlee said:
Hey Jerry, is this a common occurrence? I'm not familiar with a filters anti-drainback valve. I'm assuming that's a part of the actual filter.?
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Yes there's an antidrainback valve inside of most oil filters whose job it is to keep oil in the top-end of the engine. Leaks (which are not externally visible) that antidrainback valve are not common but they happen.
 
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Spotted this crack in my exhaust header. Hoping for a few recommendations on replacements? Also is it easy to do yourself or is it better off just having the shop do it for me?

IMG_3398.jpg
 
Jackson1234 said:
Sorry forgot to say. Its a 1997 v6 4.0l automatic
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In that case, this is the best one you can get IMHO.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004CIK628/?tag=wranglerorg-20

There's others out there (like the cheap ones on eBay), but they WILL crack (I guarantee it) in short order, as they're stamped out pieces of Chinese crap.

Changing the header isn't easy. I've done it before and you have to be a contortionist to get up there, seriously.

It makes it fifteen times easier if you remove the entire driver side fender, then it becomes a walk in the park. But with the fender on, it's one of the most cumbersome tasks I've ever done.
 
Jackson1234 said:
https://www.4wheelparts.com/Performance-Parts/Drake-Exhaust-Header-Kit-Natural-JP-150000-RW.aspx?t_c=74&t_s=49&t_pt=3240&t_pn=DRKJP-150000-RW&utm_source=google,google&utm_medium=cpc,cpc&utm_campaign=shopping&emlprox=out&ppcfon=1&gp=1&tf=1&scid=scplpDRKJP-150000-RW&sc_intid=DRKJP-150000-RW&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIidDN7I3P3AIVAhFpCh2GEw0TEAQYBSABEgJaGfD_BwE

Is something like this the cheap stuff that will crack? Also does just taking off the fender flare gets me there or is there more I would need to remove? I haven't done a lot of work besides the basic stuff so I want to make sure I don't get in over my head.
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That's just some Chinese header. I have no experience with it, but I wouldn't waste my money on it personally. You're free to give it a try though and report back. For all I know it could work out!

No, you need to remove more than the fender flare. You have to remove the entire drivers side outer fender and inner fender.

Like this:

1997-jeep-wrangler-tj-defender-flares-installation-002.jpg
2005-jeep-wrangler-tj-black-inline-6-brute-conversion-fender-removal.jpg


Just the driver's side fender though.

It makes the job so much easier. Try it with the fender on and you'll be cursing, busting knuckles, and wondering how it's even possible.
 
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