Flushing brake fluid (and doing a brake job)

cpwolf

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I think I've read through every thread I can find, and I just want to confirm a couple things. I'm doing my 2005 and my son his 2008, rear disc, replacing rotors, pads, and ebrake and ebrake parts on the 08. Main question that is step 14 in my list (I left out jacked the Jeep etc for the sarcastic folks, ha)

This is the process I'm following :
1. Pull caliper and pads rear. (Pull caliper then Caliper bracket).
2. Pulled ebrakes on the JK.
3. Cleaned out the area with brake cleaner.
4. Put the ebrakes back in (with trying to keep my cussing at the springs to a minimal, I failed, and my 19 year old has more patience than me I've learned, he's better at the springs).
5. Shot brake cleaner on ebrake pads and the rotor.
6. put rotor on, and the ebrake pads slightly rub, so didn't feel they needed any adjustment.
7. Caliper grease on the caliper bracket under new tin plates that fit in, and the pins all move well and greased.
8. Bracket and pads on.
9. Emptied the Master Cylinder, and put new Dot 3 fluid in (I use this, even though 4 and I think 5.1 are ok, the MC says use Dot 3 on the JK, and Dot 3 for the TJ and JK are fine, why try and fix a problem that doesn't exist by changing).
10. Filled MC with new Dot 3.
11. Push back in caliper then put it back on.
12. I'm doing the other rear corner, and get to the same spot, then bleed both.
13. Manual bleed is the only one I would do, my wife can push a brake pedal if necessary, so this is how I would do it.
14. Bleed starting pass rear, then Driver rear until clear. Making sure the reservoir stays full.

Obviously torque and put the tires back on, but I'm teaching my 19 year old to do this, he's "mostly" doing it on the JK, and I'm pretty sure I haven't missed anything. His comment so far, "This shit is dirty, and man, you're pretty free with the brake cleaner". Ha
 
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Flush your brake fluid first. If you push your calipers in with debris and dirty fluid inside of them they may stick now or in the future. Always start by pumping that dirty fluid out first.
 
I only got the JK done, my TJ with new axles coming I’ll just leave the brakes for the new axles.

Had a stuck caliper, and Napa actually had a Mopar Reman for $65 (after Core return) pretty dam good deal I thought I was going to be stuck waiting for one.

Also, there’s tools to pull the fluid, but I keep the throw away Turkey injectors , my wife always asks why, and it’s perfect for draining the reservoir. Ha
 
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I only got the JK done, my TJ with new axles coming I’ll just leave the brakes for the new axles.

Had a stuck caliper, and Napa actually had a Mopar Reman for $65 (after Core return) pretty dam good deal I thought I was going to be stuck waiting for one.

Also, there’s tools to pull the fluid, but I keep the throw away Turkey injectors , my wife always asks why, and it’s perfect for draining the reservoir. Ha

I never had luck with the pump vacuum fluid pulls. I finally bought the motive pressure bleeder with all the attachments. Never have to worry about running the MC dry. It is also a necessary tool for bleeding modern day anti-lock brake systems.
 
I never had luck with the pump vacuum fluid pulls. I finally bought the motive pressure bleeder with all the attachments. Never have to worry about running the MC dry. It is also a necessary tool for bleeding modern day anti-lock brake systems.

Fair enough. I bleed these by the old school, push the pedal method.

Gravity to fill the new caliper, then push the pedal and hold it. Not sure if the newer ones need it, but he older Jeeps I’ve read the old school push the pedal gets it done.
 
I bought a mityvac vacuum bleeder and after attempting to use it, I promptly packaged it back up and told oreillys they could have it back. I never could get a tight seal and all I did was make a brake fluid mess. It was probably user error but in the time I spent fucking with the mityvac I could have manually bled the brakes on 4 jeeps. FWIW
 
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Pump method is annoying. I like the "drink beer and wait" method. Just open the bleeder and mc reservoir cap, and wait until it there's a steady drip of clear. Drink your beer and keep reservoir full. Takes an extra 15-30 minutes but totally worth it.
 
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