I have a fog light switch in the dash, but know fog lights in my 99. I flip the switch and a green light comes on, so it has power. Would I have wires up front somewhere I could add some lights and turn them on and off from that switch?
Fog light switch
- Thread starter Hopper
- Start date
You may or may not need to plug a relay into the underhood PDU to get them to work - and keep in mind the fog lite connectors that are (presumably) under your front fenders are probably corroded into uselessness.
Actually that is not correct...
I talked to a dealership Jeep tech friend (30 years); he stated that most, but not all were pre wired and it is unknown why.
My 2001 Sport (09/00) with CC and AC did not come pre wired for fog lights.
My '06 X had the wiring. It was missing the high beam interrupt relay, and it didn't have a switch, but the wiring was there.
My '01 had no foglight switch, no wiring from the PDC relay location to behind the ash tray and no wiring routed to either side of the radiator.
I love the backlit factory switches,I wished I could do this to the aftermarket switches
my 2000 Sahara has the bolt hole pattern for the OEM running boards that the 01-06's have. quirks.
Correct. If it actually came from the factory with fogs, the MFS included fog control. Mine didn't, and thus the MFS didn't have that function. I could have replaced it with one that did, but I put a fog switch elsewhere.
Hasselblad
TJ Enthusiast
Related question (rather than creating yet another fog light thread:
So I grabbed the new unimproved hella glass housings out of a set of 500 lights, and grabbed a couple 100W bulbs.
Then after some reading I grabbed a harness with 14 gauge wire for the upped draw:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08CGSH7TJ?tag=wranglerorg-20
It's actually a pretty damned nice harness, relay, inline fuse. Anyhoo...
I swapped in the new light parts and bulbs into my OEM fog light housings, spliced the new pigtails, then ran the light end of the harness through the fender, then to the right light and then in front of the radiator to the driver side. Then I had to redo all of that because I mistakenly routed the wires on the wrong side of the not so quick discos (I need to clean them up and get them back to usable condition). Now before I put the harness in further I am going to mount the relay (do folks mostly just zip tie it to a wire bundle?), then to the battery and then test it out with the harness' switch.
Now for the question:
I do not want to use the switch that came with the harness, but rather the OEM one on the lights/high beam arm. I have a rubi so no spare spot for a rocker switch under climate control, and I really don't want to just stick the harness switch on the dash. So I want to utilize the existing OEM switch, retain the fog light indicator on the cluster, and the auto high beam shutoff. However I haven't the fogiest where to splice the new harness to get connected to that switch while retaining it's current functionality. Is it a matter of finding the proper wires that are at the OEM relay, and cut splicing to them? That part is confusing to me as I was under the impression that the power to the OEM lights went through the switch to the lights, and the switch wasn't just powering the relay. Am I understanding this all correctly?
So I grabbed the new unimproved hella glass housings out of a set of 500 lights, and grabbed a couple 100W bulbs.
Then after some reading I grabbed a harness with 14 gauge wire for the upped draw:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08CGSH7TJ?tag=wranglerorg-20
It's actually a pretty damned nice harness, relay, inline fuse. Anyhoo...
I swapped in the new light parts and bulbs into my OEM fog light housings, spliced the new pigtails, then ran the light end of the harness through the fender, then to the right light and then in front of the radiator to the driver side. Then I had to redo all of that because I mistakenly routed the wires on the wrong side of the not so quick discos (I need to clean them up and get them back to usable condition). Now before I put the harness in further I am going to mount the relay (do folks mostly just zip tie it to a wire bundle?), then to the battery and then test it out with the harness' switch.
Now for the question:
I do not want to use the switch that came with the harness, but rather the OEM one on the lights/high beam arm. I have a rubi so no spare spot for a rocker switch under climate control, and I really don't want to just stick the harness switch on the dash. So I want to utilize the existing OEM switch, retain the fog light indicator on the cluster, and the auto high beam shutoff. However I haven't the fogiest where to splice the new harness to get connected to that switch while retaining it's current functionality. Is it a matter of finding the proper wires that are at the OEM relay, and cut splicing to them? That part is confusing to me as I was under the impression that the power to the OEM lights went through the switch to the lights, and the switch wasn't just powering the relay. Am I understanding this all correctly?
The description for that harness states the 14 gauge wiring can handle up to 300W, but in the picture it states it will handle up to 180W LEDs.
You state you grabbed a couple 100W bulbs and installed them in Hella 500 housings.
There is a big difference in the amount of amperage that an LED will draw producing 180W vs the amount of amperage a 180W Halogen will draw.
14 gauge wiring will handle 15 amps and (2) 100W bulbs will draw 200/13.5=15amp of draw and IF the supply voltage is less then the amperage is more.
Be careful keeping those Hella 500s on too long; that harness should only be used with LEDs and not Halogen bulbs.
You state you grabbed a couple 100W bulbs and installed them in Hella 500 housings.
There is a big difference in the amount of amperage that an LED will draw producing 180W vs the amount of amperage a 180W Halogen will draw.
14 gauge wiring will handle 15 amps and (2) 100W bulbs will draw 200/13.5=15amp of draw and IF the supply voltage is less then the amperage is more.
Be careful keeping those Hella 500s on too long; that harness should only be used with LEDs and not Halogen bulbs.
Hasselblad
TJ Enthusiast
OK, this is the first time I am seeing a warning about 14 gauge used with 100w halogen h3 bulbs.
Assuming the same voltage, 180 watts at exactly 12 volts is 15 amps, it doesn't matter what type of load, watts are watts. Its like asking which weighs more, a pound of feathers or a pound of lead.
You can if you're using factory style switches, but it isn't super easy and you'll likely need to add some kind of switch panel expansion.
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