Frame Side Track Bar Mount Shot

05_LJ

05_LJ

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Hello - I have read a fewer threads on here about how bad a double shear track bar setup is. The track bar mount (frame side) on my 05 LJ is completely shot and was poorly welded by the last guy. Since double shear brackets seem to be available to replace the stock bracket but “we” don’t want double shear, does anyone have a quality single shear weld on bracket available to replace the stock one? Let me know who sells one that you have had luck with.
 
What does shot specifically mean? Is the mount cracked?
 
jjvw said:
What does shot specifically mean? Is the mount cracked?
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Yeah the weld they did has worn out and there is no good way to fix it. Added photo.

IMG_1605.jpeg
 
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Take a look at the Jeep West double shear bracket, along with the rough country forged track bar. That setup allows the use of 1" bump stop extensions, which no other aftermarket track bar allows. Plus it retains proper geometry.

Photos taken from jeep west

120129304_2065239240275089_4359548010953278816_n.jpg


120200232_2065239053608441_4977993710659890484_n.jpg
 
Blackjack said:
Double shear mounts are not necessarily bad they just have to be done correctly as not to mess up your track bar to drag link relationship.
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Is it as simple as cutting the stock bracket off and welding the new double shear bracket on? I don’t currently have it lifted but it will be next year. I spoke with the people and Barnes and they have a bracket that is double shear and is good for stock height and lifted.
 
05_LJ said:
Is it as simple as cutting the stock bracket off and welding the new double shear bracket on? I don’t currently have it lifted but it will be next year. I spoke with the people and Barnes and they have a bracket that is double shear and is good for stock height and lifted.
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Essentially yes, but make sure to cycle the suspension to check for clearance. Barnes has a full set of instructions that show where to weld the bracket on. You might want to triple check the drop on that bracket as I believe it's less than stock, meaning that you will end up with bump steer. @David Kishpaugh would know better.
 
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It looks like it just has some kind of shroud with a set bolt in it. Then the bolt head was cut off.

Can you tell if the mount itself is cracked? Maybe that shroud weirdness could just be removed.

I can't tell of that's just dirt or the nut is welded too.
 
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jxv1247 said:
Take a look at the Jeep West double shear bracket, along with the rough country forged track bar. That setup allows the use of 1" bump stop extensions, which no other aftermarket track bar allows. Plus it retains proper geometry.

Photos taken from jeep west

View attachment 521813

View attachment 521814
Click to expand...

As bad a rap as RC gets, they have some good features in some products -

The bend in that bar gets great clearance, the bar accepts the K7252 bushing and a 14 mm bolt, and the bar is stout.

Its’ rear counterpart has a centering sleeve- really nice.

The new track bar they make is $129 and accepts over the counter bushings and an es3096l end.

Not Currie, but reasonably priced and they will get it done.
 
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AndyG said:
As bad a rap as RC gets, they have some good features in some products -

The bend in that bar gets great clearance, the bar accepts the K7252 bushing and a 14 mm bolt, and the bar is stout.

Its’ rear counterpart has a centering sleeve- really nice.

The new track bar they make is $129 and accepts over the counter bushings and an es3096l end.

Not Currie, but reasonably priced and they will get it done.
Click to expand...

Yep, running their bar and the Moog bushings in the front, zero issues ! Can't say the same for the jks that was on it.
 
jxv1247 said:
Yep, running their bar and the Moog bushings in the front, zero issues ! Can't say the same for the jks that was on it.
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I previously had their bar which necessitated their drop/relocation bracket that bolts to the stock bracket and requires some 15/16 holes be drilled in the frame. I was not a fan. Dropping the bar also seems to require their drop pitman arm which tends to mess up geometry. Are you running the rough country bar with a new mount that does not significantly lower it so you can run the stock pitman arm.

I replaced mine with a rockjock and a stock pitman arm and the front end works much better. Just my experience with a bar that requires a drop from the stock mount.
 
Tob said:
...

Is it welded on the inboard side of the frame rail? Looks like there’s a gap.
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It left the factory the way. There is a welded tab going up onto the vertical face of the frame.
 
Sean B said:
I previously had their bar which necessitated their drop/relocation bracket that bolts to the stock bracket and requires some 15/16 holes be drilled in the frame. I was not a fan. Dropping the bar also seems to require their drop pitman arm which tends to mess up geometry. Are you running the rough country bar with a new mount that does not significantly lower it so you can run the stock pitman arm.

I replaced mine with a rockjock and a stock pitman arm and the front end works much better. Just my experience with a bar that requires a drop from the stock mount.
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You had the 4-6” bar, which required the use of a drop pitman arm. The bar we are talking about is the 0-3.5” lift one , which works on larger lifts despite the description. The bracket included with this one drops the track bar 1/2” over the stock mount . I have zero issues with bump steer running Currie steering.
 
jxv1247 said:
You had the 4-6” bar, which required the use of a drop pitman arm. The bar we are talking about is the 0-3.5” lift one , which works on larger lifts despite the description. The bracket included with this one drops the track bar 1/2” over the stock mount . I have zero issues with bump steer running Currie steering.
Click to expand...

That makes sense, I didn’t know the lower lift bar would work with larger lifts. I was not a fan of the 4-6 inch bar, the issue was really with the bracket and drop pitman arm more than the actual bar from my experience.
 
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