Front axle u-joints seized in axle on 2006 Rubicon
- Thread starter AndyG
- Start date
@mrblaine I know you like to beat the ignorance out of u-joints as evidenced by your prior posts, but I would like your honest opinion on this style of u-joint puller. (Not necessarily this particular brand but this style in general) There's a shop close to hear closing it's doors and selling off some tools he has one like this that I could probably get pretty cheap.
If I could find one that fit the 5-760-X joints, that would probably be all I would use. It is the perfect way to remove the caps since it isn't trying to mash the two yoke ears together if the cap binds in the yoke hole.
I gather I should probably make sure it fits my needs before I spend money on it... Thank you!!
That OEMTools u-joint puller is cool, here's a good video on using it...
Maybe, but when you remove a TJ knuckle off of the ball joints, all you do is pull the castle nuts and then smack the little shelf at the top of the knuckle with hammer and knock it off of the ball joint pins. With a shop hammer, I can get them off in anywhere from 1-3 smacks. Generally 1 will do it, stubborn ones take 2. Really stubborn ones take 3. I got a lot of core knuckles back at one point. You can clearly see that lots of folks really needed to set their purses down and just hit that thing. The whole top of the knuckle is peppered with these little tiny dents from a less than large tack hammer. All I can envision is they gave up and went and got their mommies to help.
Don't be afraid to load it up and then smack the yoke on the pushed out side to keep the bind at bay.
Would I be correct that the 24539 is the one needed for our TJ joints? 1" to 1.25" cap sizes since the 5-760-X joints have a 1.188 cap. It's only $75 on Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07C7YTMC2/?tag=wranglerorg-20
Do you have a good vice? There is a technique that you can use that does not mess things up and save the the cost of a puller. Those pullers work well just not always worth the expense if you are not using it all the time.
I've done my fair share of u-joint replacements, I just wanted Blaine's opinion on that puller. I've used ball joint presses, vices, and the tried and true hammer and socket method. Each method works some better than others but Blaine confirmed my assumption that the puller I asked him about is ultimately the best way to go about it.
I thank you for your offer of advice though.
I guess I have just been lucky as I haven't bent a yoke or ears. Every method has its merits and yes like with everything some are gunna mess up.
Hopefully with all the advice the OP will get his u-joints out and replaced with no issues.
OP
Follow up -
@Hog came up and we got us a 4lb hammer, took an angle grinder and cut the u joints completely out of the yokes so we weren't trying to move 2 caps at a time , took a junk socket, smacked the caps out of the yokes, smoothed the yokes with emery cloth, reassembled with new unit bearings and pads , then set the toe - my buddy with the press dropped off the right rear axle we replaced the bearing and seal on, so I'm going to install that in the morning.
Thanks as always , you guys are always a wealth of information.
Andy
@Hog came up and we got us a 4lb hammer, took an angle grinder and cut the u joints completely out of the yokes so we weren't trying to move 2 caps at a time , took a junk socket, smacked the caps out of the yokes, smoothed the yokes with emery cloth, reassembled with new unit bearings and pads , then set the toe - my buddy with the press dropped off the right rear axle we replaced the bearing and seal on, so I'm going to install that in the morning.
Thanks as always , you guys are always a wealth of information.
Andy