Front end priorities

[Bloodlines33]

I have sloppy steering and a hard pull to the right. Went in for a Mavis Discount Tire alignment and the mechanic said it wouldn’t even register on the machine…took it down the road to another shop and on the lift the sway bar end link came apart and both were replaced. Now the fix-it list is being tallied. What is the bare minimum to keep me on the road until I can get to it all? (just drove 500 not-fun miles but have more summer trips on the calendar)

I can’t afford everything but I want to address the most important parts that contribute to sloppy steering first. Anything worth “upgrading” around same price as stock? No plans beyond current 31” tires.

Stock everything and likely all original. 2000 4.0L auto 153k miles. Not a DD but needs to be 70mph highway capable.

Is this order right? Here's what I think I need in order of priority. I was quoted $800 for everything but shocks/springs. Budget around $400-500.

1. Upper & Lower ball joints
2. ZJ tie rod & draglink (same price as TJ OEM)
3. Lower control arms
4. Upper control arms
5. Shocks (definitely toast)
6. Steering stabilizer
7. Springs

Recently replaced:

1. 31” BFG KO2 tires
2. Refreshed brakes all around (pads, rotors, brake lines)
3. New sway bar end links (Moog) after the failed alignment

You can laugh at me, just don't point!

 

[RubiconRic]

Are you doing the work yourself? If you think everything is OEM then I'd do #1, #2, and #6 in one go, and see how it drives. Get the Spicer ball joints and the Monroe stabilizer. Hopefully that tightens everything up.

 

[Not_Invented_Here_]

+1 to #1 and #2. Don't see track bar(s) on there?

Also don't worry about getting laughed at. I've replaced 90-95% of that stuff myself and I still pay for alignments - only done those once myself. I'm all stock too with the same Moog parts you're probably rocking. Rear shocks I noped out pretty hard too.

How do you like the 31" with the auto

 

[Bloodlines33]

Are you doing the work yourself? If you think everything is OEM then I'd do #1, #2, and #6 in one go, and see how it drives. Get the Spicer ball joints and the Monroe stabilizer. Hopefully that tightens everything up.

Thank you for the recommendation @RubiconRic Spicer it is, $117
Everything including shocks is OEM except for gas skid and rear frame rust repair
I'll have a shop do it all since I don't have the tools, driveway or "spare" bolts...and the last thing holding me back is inexperience.

 

[Bloodlines33]

Track bar was not included in the assessment maybe it should be? I will have another shop look it over and see if they catch it, strong $4. My original steering stabilizer shows signs of leaking.

Updated order:

1. Upper & Lower ball joints (Spicer)
2. ZJ tie rod & draglink
3. Steering stabilizer (Monroe)
4. Track bar or bushing kit
5. Lower control arms
6. Upper control arms
7. Shocks (definitely toast)
8. Springs (not as toasty as

@Not_Invented_Here_ jeep came with old unsafe 29"s. 31"s were a dramatic upgrade visually and in handling/comfort/traction/braking, no perceivable loss in power. I'm also working with the dreaded 3.07 but it fits my needs just fine.

 

[RubiconRic]

I would think your control arms since you don't have a lift (and I imagine aren't doing crazy articulation) should be relatively fine, so I'd move #5 and 6 to the bottom. When you said budget is $500, hopefully that is parts only, because if you have a shop do the work you'd be over budget otherwise.

 

[Rubicon88]

Your list...

#1 is fine
#2 is as well but...
DO NOT buy Crown or any other house branded steering parts for your zj upgrade....example... driveworks (Advance auto) master pro (oreillys) duralast (autozone) proformer (napa)

Buy Moog or Napa chassis (which is Moog re-boxed)

The other house brands and crown are all the same Asian garbage from the same place. Different paint and boxes.

#3 should be a track bar
Again...Moog is a good one!!

#4 shocks

5,6,7 who cares.
The first 4 are critical and will take care of your issues.

 

[Not_Invented_Here_]

Your list...

#1 is fine
#2 is as well but...
DO NOT buy Crown or any other house branded steering parts for your zj upgrade....example... driveworks (Advance auto) master pro (oreillys) duralast (autozone) proformer (napa)

Buy Moog or Napa chassis (which is Moog re-boxed)

The other house brands and crown are all the same Asian garbage from the same place. Different paint and boxes.

#3 should be a track bar
Again...Moog is a good one!!

#4 shocks

5,6,7 who cares.
The first 4 are critical and will take care of your issues.

Just saying, I used Crown arms since mine is an unlifted DD. Do I wish I'd just waited and gone with Core 4x4 adjustables, sure. But they're fine enough for getting from A to B, as long as you aren't beating on them. Paint job sucks though, like I almost rather they would have shipped them unpainted and let me handle it.

Agreed otherwise, I used Moog for everything else.

 

[Rob L.]

I would do steering stabilizer and see what you think. You will be very surprised how much play a beefier stabilizer will take out of your steering even when everything else is 100%.

$50 & two bolts later and you'll wonder why you never did it sooner.

 

[Not_Invented_Here_]

I would do steering stabilizer and see what you think. You will be very surprised how much play a beefier stabilizer will take out of your steering even when everything else is 100%.

$50 & two bolts later and you'll wonder why you never did it sooner.

Not saying it won't help, but the conventional wisdom seems to be that it's a band-aid as opposed to a solution. I don't think you're wrong, especially if his is leaking, I just hate to see that given sole priority while neglecting to replace other more critical parts.

 

[Rob L.]

I knew that was coming but it's just my opinion.

As long as an alignment can be maintained, I would disregard all the other stuff since it's not a DD or upgraded and it's something that anyone can do.

All of my front end components were in great shape & my boredom got the best of me so I replaced my stabilizer. Hands down the most noticeable improvement I've experienced for that amount of money.

For cost/benefit, assuming nothing else is broken, that's my vote

 

[Not_Invented_Here_]

I knew that was coming but it's just my opinion.

As long as an alignment can be maintained, I would disregard all the other stuff since it's not a DD or upgraded and it's something that anyone can do.

All of my front end components were in great shape & my boredom got the best of me so I replaced my stabilizer. Hands down the most noticeable improvement I've experienced for that amount of money.

For cost/benefit, assuming nothing else is broken, that's my vote

Ha yeah, I tried to word it like I wasn't jumping all over you. I know that comment triggers a lot of "you're wrong!" responses. I do think it's a worthwhile replacement to make, and I'm equally as opposed to the guys saying you don't even need to run it and if you can't run without it than something is wrong with your setup. I'm just of the opinion that if you need to replace your ball joints (or any of the other critical steering/suspension components really), then you need to replace them.

You're not wrong tho, I got by well enough with my worn out factory steering and suspension during the first year I owned it and I was truly DD'ing it. Just toughed it out until I could afford/learn to replace it myself, or pay the shop

 

[Bloodlines33]

I'm very much at the same point 1 year in but with less DD and more weekend trips. I know I have issues a Steering Stabilizer would "mask" but not cure. It is low on my list knowing there are more critical parts to be addressed first, but it is less expensive. And perhaps I can do SS since it doesn't mess with alignment that I'm aware of.

Do I need an alignment after just replacing control arms? I'm not willing to attempt alignment myself but could take a leap and do lower control arms myself.

Glad Moog is acceptable for most steering components as they are available with reasonable prices. I need to go cheap, but I don't want to pay for things twice.

1. Upper & Lower ball joints (Spicer)
2. ZJ tie rod & draglink (Moog)
3. Steering stabilizer (Monroe) - high up on list because it's inexpensive and I think I can do it.
4. Track bar or bushing kit
5. Lower control arms
6. Upper control arms
7. Shocks (definitely toast)
8. Springs (not as toasty as shocks)

 

[Not_Invented_Here_]

I'm very much at the same point 1 year in but with less DD and more weekend trips. I know I have issues a Steering Stabilizer would "mask" but not cure. It is low on my list knowing there are more critical parts to be addressed first, but it is less expensive. And perhaps I can do SS since it doesn't mess with alignment that I'm aware of.

Do I need an alignment after just replacing control arms? I'm not willing to attempt alignment myself but could take a leap and do lower control arms myself.

Glad Moog is acceptable for most steering components as they are available with reasonable prices. I need to go cheap, but I don't want to pay for things twice.

1. Upper & Lower ball joints (Spicer)
2. ZJ tie rod & draglink (Moog)
3. Steering stabilizer (Monroe) - high up on list because it's inexpensive and I think I can do it.
4. Track bar or bushing kit
5. Lower control arms
6. Upper control arms
7. Shocks (definitely toast)
8. Springs (not as toasty as shocks)

I'm using the same Monroe option too for stabilizer. Sorry if I missed this, but what tools do you have? The stabilizer is "easy" to replace but man it can be a bitch to remove sometimes from the drag link without certain tools. You shouldn't "need" any alignment for just arms since they aren't adjustable, but that won't stop shops or anyone else from telling you it's a good idea. If you haven't had one at all, it's not a terrible idea, but just more $$ to spend.

You should be able to handle lower arms yourself too with the right tools.

 

[Gollywomper]

Everything listed has the potential change your alignment, except 3,7 &8. Have you verified all those on the list are bad? If so, all are fairly easy jobs to complete on your own. Lots of info here and on you tube to help get the job done.

 

[Not_Invented_Here_]

Everything listed has the potential change your alignment, except 3,7 &8. Have you verified all those on the list are bad? If so, all are fairly easy jobs to complete on your own. Lots of info here and on you tube to help get the job done.

Want to make sure I'm not giving bad advice - swapping just lower front and/or rear arms and stabilizer should not require an alignment though, yeah?

 

[Gollywomper]

Want to make sure I'm not giving bad advice - swapping just lower front and/or rear arms and stabilizer should not require an alignment though, yeah?

Arms can affect caster. Depending on if cam bolts are used and condition of joints. I would do all the front end work then get it aligned if he doesn’t want to do the home alignment.

 

[Rubicon88]

I knew that was coming but it's just my opinion.

As long as an alignment can be maintained, I would disregard all the other stuff since it's not a DD or upgraded and it's something that anyone can do.

All of my front end components were in great shape & my boredom got the best of me so I replaced my stabilizer. Hands down the most noticeable improvement I've experienced for that amount of money.

For cost/benefit, assuming nothing else is broken, that's my vote

A stabilizer can help...but it's more perception than reality.

A stabilizer in New or good condition versus one that is junk or non exist...
It will immediately make everything "feel tighter"
All that is happening though is putting resistance on the steering.
It actually can tame a bump steer because the steering can't just freely left/right after said bump.
That said a stabilizer will not prevent the Jeep from being able to be aligned.
It also is only masking underlying bad steering.

Honestly...
The OP needs to shit can the list and do a dry steering test.

But see that is moot since the OP wants to do a ZJ steering upgrade.

I'm very much at the same point 1 year in but with less DD and more weekend trips. I know I have issues a Steering Stabilizer would "mask" but not cure. It is low on my list knowing there are more critical parts to be addressed first, but it is less expensive. And perhaps I can do SS since it doesn't mess with alignment that I'm aware of.

Do I need an alignment after just replacing control arms? I'm not willing to attempt alignment myself but could take a leap and do lower control arms myself.

Glad Moog is acceptable for most steering components as they are available with reasonable prices. I need to go cheap, but I don't want to pay for things twice.

1. Upper & Lower ball joints (Spicer)
2. ZJ tie rod & draglink (Moog)
3. Steering stabilizer (Monroe) - high up on list because it's inexpensive and I think I can do it.
4. Track bar or bushing kit
5. Lower control arms
6. Upper control arms
7. Shocks (definitely toast)
8. Springs (not as toasty as shocks)

You absolutely need to reposition trackbar above steering stabilizer.

I work on this shit every day for a living.

As far as importance....
These 4 are your absolute priority and then reevaluate.

In no particular order...just collectively...
Steering upgrade!!!
Track bar...!!! (Why you keep putting the stabilizer over this I do not know)
Ball joints!!!
Shocks!!!

I know you feel that stabilizer is very important so just for you we'll add that into your lost of priority.
That's 5 items.

Start there...I'm betting you won't need to do anything else.
(Notice I've not listed control arms or springs...twice in this thread now)

 

[Rob L.]

Ha yeah, I tried to word it like I wasn't jumping all over you. I know that comment triggers a lot of "you're wrong!" responses. I do think it's a worthwhile replacement to make, and I'm equally as opposed to the guys saying you don't even need to run it and if you can't run without it than something is wrong with your setup. I'm just of the opinion that if you need to replace your ball joints (or any of the other critical steering/suspension components really), then you need to replace them.

You're not wrong tho, I got by well enough with my worn out factory steering and suspension during the first year I owned it and I was truly DD'ing it. Just toughed it out until I could afford/learn to replace it myself, or pay the shop

No worries here, I didn't take it as such. We are on the same page, just speaking a different language.

Personally, I think it would be a fun time to learn about your Jeep and see for yourself what components on your list have some play in them and decide where you want to go from there based on money you want to spend. I've thrown a lot of similar parts in vehicles over the years thinking I'd be driving on clouds after only to be brought back to reality very quickly with a thinner wallet. I wouldn't replace your control arms unless something is damaged, inspect the bushings first if you suspect an issue from them.

I've got a '98 Z71 sitting in my driveway that I know will always have loose steering no matter what I do to it. I know when I get in my Jeep to expect one thing, my Chevy another, & my Ford even another.

Yes, I have all three brands sitting next to one another and they play nice in the sandbox...

 

[Bloodlines33]

Wow, all great feedback thank you! Both shops showed me (while on the lift) my worn bushings. Control arm bushings (all 4) are cracking. I did a dry steering test on the ground yesterday and there is play in basically everything I could see but the steering box and pitman arm. Track bar will now be part of the Ball Joints + ZJ Tie Rod/Drag Link + Track bar replaced all at once.

I have hand tools so SS should be a good job for me. Everything is pretty seized so I'll let a shop with air tools work on the rest.