Fuel tank skids

[David Kishpaugh]

How long did your factory tank skid make it?
What's the best fitting tank we can still buy, considering differential and bolt on track bar brackets are there to grab it when the lower arms get to 16" or longer with a slip yoke eliminator?
Let's weed out the boat anchors.

 

[Blackjack]

My skid on my 98 made it about 5 runs up here in AK before I had pushed it up enough to allow the ring seal to ingest water during a crossing that nearly left me stranded. Put a Kilby on and been fine ever since.

 

[RINC]

I am waiting on an aluminum skid from a small race shop that happens to sell parts.

I have looked at the Warn skid but it's in steel.

 

[AMS417]

I have Metal Cloak on my LJ. It was on my TJ before I sold it. Had the piss beat out of it on two Jeeps. Still solid but the crossmember it mounts to is bent. Cutting out the crossmember and moving the tank back this fall. Will probably use it again if I can get enough stretch with the stock tank.

 

[tworley]

Swapped out my OE skid soon as I had the chance. I only had one big hit on it that pushed in the corner of my tank, though it popped right back into place once I put the savvy skid on.

My axle brackets are clocked forward due to my tummy tuck, but the only trimming I've had to do was at front mounting tab of the skid to clear my trackbar at full stuff with 12" travel shocks.

 

[pagrey]

Genright probably has the largest selection just because they make the tank. I wouldn't do something like the UCF aluminum just because of the damage showing on the factory tank skid in the picture. They all fit just about the same with the exception of the Genright ones because obviously they are made to give you more room or capacity. I don't think many people would suggest the covers that add to the factory tank skid. If you wheeled the factory skid that hard and were fine with it until you tore it off you might just get a new factory skid and do it again especially since it doesn't look like you have a body lift.