Full Tuck or Super 35 and Locker?

For what you are running, going totally flat would be the only way to go. For my type of use, adding a couple inches clearance is really all I need. So, depends on your usage, as always.

As far as the rear end "controversy," anything can be broken. I have no direct experience with the 35 but have seen several busted when I was in the business. But the S35 didn't exist then, those broken were factory stuff. But, I also saw many busted 44's as well. Back then the 44 was considered barely adequate for hard core wheeling. Most went with a beefed 9" Ford or Dana 60. The introduction of hardened alloy axles changed all that. Back then it was simply build as big as possible.
And going totally flat or near flat is 3.5-3.75”, which is a ton of lift being seen at the TCase. But it almost goes hand in hand with strengthening the axle, bc then your ability to climb larger ledges is there, clearance wise, but weak Dana 35 and shafts may not be up to it, and a locker would help tremendously. So I think it’s a matter of sequence,
 
@bobthetj03 is absolutely right. If there is a way to purchase in phases I say go with your heart after doing all your research. Either way you go here, it will take your Jeep in the right direction.

That is what’s great about all this, we can debate and share our opinions all day and night. At the end of the day your Jeep build will make you happy with either way you go with it.
Well said, as is often the case. Thanks
 
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She would be a beast with all those upgrades. It’s all I’d like to do to her, now. LOL. She is already fun to wheel, she would just be moreso. Might take some time since the cheapest I can do all this is around $4250. Then I’ll have $19K into my TJ. It’s all fun and I appreciate all the ideas
 
We'll follow along, whatever you decide. If I were in your shoes and had a Dana 35, I'd super it and LSD it or lock it.
 
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Wow that was a good lunch break read. Regardless of product under consideration for purchase I look at the following:

1. What is my endstate- torque/ clearance/ to look sexy..
2. Is used an option- for some things used is not the way to go but a lot times used is a viable option.
3. If new, is the distributor local/ reputable- its nice to look someone eye to eye if something needs warranty work.
4. Does my wife know the true price. If so then usually its a no go on purchase...- not really... well yea sort of.
5. Does said product have endorsement from friends or local Jeep Clubs or good reviews on the forums.

In the end, have fun with the never ending MOD list and build sheet while maintaining some semblance of fiscal restraint...
 
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Wow that was a good lunch break read. Regardless of product under consideration for purchase I look at the following:

1. What is my endstate- torque/ clearance/ to look sexy..
2. Is used an option- for some things used is not the way to go but a lot times used is a viable option.
3. If new, is the distributor local/ reputable- its nice to look someone eye to eye if something needs warranty work.
4. Does my wife know the true price. If so then usually its a no go on purchase...- not really... well yea sort of.
5. Does said product have endorsement from friends or local Jeep Clubs or good reviews on the forums.

In the end, have fun with the never ending MOD list and build sheet while maintaining some semblance of fiscal restraint...
I have watched multiple forums over the last couple of months on the Dana 35, S35 and Dana 44 debate as I'm considering my own options. I currently have a Dana 35, with a Detroit locker, stock shafts, with 4.10s (had it done about a year ago), but after so many of the upgrades I have done since, I'm back to the need of beefing up axles for confidence and security on the trail (not a rock crawler or bouncer) and had been considering the G2D44 this summer, until by shear accident came across a guy that was selling his TJ and a rear Dana 44 Axle separately, but selling together. I was able to convince him to sell me the Dana 44 Axle (he was actually preparing to put it in his TJ, before he had just bought a 2010JK), which he had disassembled (it was out of a 05-LJ) and putting in Alloy 4.10 gears, with all the new bearings. So I not only got the Dana 44 disassembled, with the original 3.73 gears, the NEW 4.10 Alloy Gears and stock locker (which I will upgrade anyway) all the old/new bearings and 30 spline stock shafts - but got it all for $400, so I think I did okay. I'm currently running 33x12.50s with the 3spd auto and 4.10s on the 4.0L, - but want to move to 35's (biggest I will go), so plan to get a used set of 35's to try for a while with the 4.10's - in an effort to decide if I want to go to 4.56's, as we do about 50/50 trail and highway. But really appreciate the feedback and commentary on the axle conversations.
 
The super 35 kit is around 279, the e-locker and re-gear around 2000, so 2500 out the door tax title and license

Also, Jerry Bransford and Blaine say the Super 35 is stronger than the 44, and more than up for running 35’s at Johnson Valley

Not here it isn't. Check it out. No it is not an e-locker but ARB.

Allen