Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ engine mounts

GATORB8 LJ Build

And another slow down dumbass. Why not add a vacuum leak to the list, lol.

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I'll update after I get all the little accessories installed and have some seat time with it running carplay. I think the biggest issue people have is weird carplay issues (although I have similar issues on all my newer OEM vehicles).

Just put her in it when you work on it 🤣 my dog loves that
 
  • Haha
Reactions: GATORB8
I’m doing HiLine’s too, so I’ll be following your thread now to see what you do with everything. Mine are GR. I didn’t catch what yours are. What are they? Sounds like you love cutting the hood. LOL. I broke my vacuum line too, over by the CC. It literally just snapped when I went to move it. Time for more tubing all around. Ton of little projects, but in the end should be a big improvement. Yours is looking good.
 
I’m doing HiLine’s too, so I’ll be following your thread now to see what you do with everything. Mine are GR. I didn’t catch what yours are. What are they? Sounds like you love cutting the hood. LOL. I broke my vacuum line too, over by the CC. It literally just snapped when I went to move it. Time for more tubing all around. Ton of little projects, but in the end should be a big improvement. Yours is looking good.

These are the Motobilt Aluminum 0"s.

I think I have the PDC figured out, I pounded the legs flat, and cut off the rear one. Paint was still drying last night, but should end up like this:

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These are the Motobilt Aluminum 0"s.

I think I have the PDC figured out, I pounded the legs flat, and cut off the rear one. Paint was still drying last night, but should end up like this:

View attachment 652039

Similar but slightly different than what I did. Either way, it works, though I fiddled with my AC lines and now they look like crap! I’m re-working the entire battery area now, so it won’t be all jumbled up. New cables, moved the PCM up and back on the firewall. I have some more room now between the battery and the PDC.

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Per conversation last night...
2"x1/4" wall DOM is $297 for a 23' stick.

I could get:
3@40" Front upper
2@44" Rear Lower
2@34" Rear upper (75% ish of Lower)

Just WAG's for lengths... doubt they are that long.
 
Per conversation last night...
2"x1/4" wall DOM is $297 for a 23' stick.

I could get:
3@40" Front upper
2@44" Rear Lower
2@34" Rear upper (75% ish of Lower)

Just WAG's for lengths... doubt they are that long.

Sounds like a good deal. My Barnes kit came with the DOM.

I normally just use Metal Supermarkets for steel here, and that'd run $771 (precut to your listed lengths) for 1020.

I do request a picture of you carting home a 23' stick in the TJ, please.

Are you running 2" uppers?
 
Sounds like a good deal. My Barnes kit came with the DOM.

I normally just use Metal Supermarkets for steel here, and that'd run $771 (precut to your listed lengths) for 1020.

I do request a picture of you carting home a 23' stick in the TJ, please.

Are you running 2" uppers?

Hey you know what... You're right... I forgot my uppers are 1-3/4". I ordered it without the links because I can source them locally.

I'll just strap it over the top of the TJ... it'll be fine...

Grok didn't quite get it right... lol

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Kit INCLUDES:
  • Heavy Duty 1/4 & 3/16" thick laser cut and CNC bent cross member.
  • Laser cut upper and lower control arm mounts for the axle.
  • 2" x .250 thick wall DOM tubing for the lower control arms.
  • 1-3/4" x .120 thick wall DOM tubing for the upper control arms.
  • Left and right hand machined bungs to weldinto the end of each control arm tube to make adjustments easy!
  • Genuine Currie forged 1-1/4" shank Johnny Joints, at both ends of the control arm for easy adjustment! (which are greasable & rebuildable)
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Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ engine mounts