I am doing my 35 on a bench. Like you I don’t have to be in a hurry so I could focus and get it right. I thought at first I’d do the 30 in place but now that I’m nearly there with the 35 , I’ll probably pull it and do it on the bench.
Gear pattern check - Dana 35 with 4.10 gears
- Thread starter GCole
- Start date
I am doing my 35 on a bench. Like you I don’t have to be in a hurry so I could focus and get it right. I thought at first I’d do the 30 in place but now that I’m nearly there with the 35 , I’ll probably pull it and do it on the bench.
Unfortunately space is at a premium, so we're gonna do this with the axle in the vehicle. Space issues could be overcome, but I think we're also a little gun-shy as the several times we've had a rear axle out it has been a royal pain to get everything lined up, particularly the track bar. But then, we also don't have a bench to do it on. Crushing that sleeve while under the jeep is a concern. I couldn't convince him to get the crush sleeve eliminator for $30. XJ owner gonna XJ.
My role in this is to keep the XJ-owner-turned-TJ-owner from doing XJ things. His words were "I need you to keep me from half-assing this." How much patience he'll have when we have to pull the pinion for the 10th time remains to be seen. I'l just have to keep reminding him that we're doing this work because the last guy half-assed it and caused it to grenade in the first place.
One of the problems for the diyer is that the black and white pics you often see from the install manuals are hard to compare to what you actually see in the paint.
This blog from Randy's has gears in paint which makes things a bit easier to understand https://www.yukongear.com/blogs/how-to-create-read-ring-gear-patterns_1 There is also a good reason that folks post pics up here. Those of us with a few gear sets under our belts want to help you succeed with your own setup. Gears and bearings are expensive and no one wants to have to do it a second time.
Most importantly for me is to focus on getting the contact pattern centered on the tooth from root to crown. I do not fret if the pattern is not that perfect little oval that everyone hopes for. Just ask @NashvilleTJ and his adventure with 2 cut gears and the awful patterns they produce. I also do not get worked up over backlash. There is a reason there is a range for five cut gears often .007-.010, it is a range that gets the job done. I always make sure that there is at least .007 but if I have a good pattern and backlash is at .012 I am not going to fight to get it lower because Murphys law say it will go to .006 instead especially with the drop in quality and quantity of shims that are being provided.
Most important is to be patient, and methodical. Lack of consistency in procedure will cost you both time and frustration. I will admit I am not the most organized person but when doing gears I make darn sure I am. Keeping a useable workspace that allows you to keep things clean and organized does wonders in how quickly you can work a setup. Having something to scribble on helps as well so you can keep notes on each variation you try and what results it nets.
The thing I like about Randy's R&P pictures is that they show the classic smiley vs. frowny face for too shallow or too deep. The old school black and white versions are all over the place too. There is no substitute for experience, that is for sure.
Long before you posted this, Black, I was in the process of writing a wise crack post about 2 cut gears….but the memories were just a bit too painful…..
Having been coached by these guys on my first couple gear setups, my advice for a first time setup is to definitely pull the axle. If you can possibly pull it off, it will save you lots of time and frustration in the long run.
I pulled those gears and shuffled shims 10 or 15 times each (maybe more), and I can’t imagine doing it on my back if you don’t have a lift.
I'd just add to all of these gearing threads that your set up bearings you clearance to be a slip fit should be the same brand and type as the final installed bearings. Also a good idea to take a caliper and measure bearing/race combined thickness on both setup and install bearings dry to insure repeatable tolerances.
People that do gears will tell you that the best paint is from the parts counter at the GM dealership. Use a Flux brush and you'll see beautiful marks. PN 1052351
The beast is a 60/14b combo right?
It is now. My first gear setup that these guys coached me through was a high pinion Dynatrac Pro Rock 60 in the rear - replacing the gears and ARB locker after smoking it for the 5th time. That was the 2 cut gear challenge BlackJack mentioned.
Then I built a shaved 14 bolt, and they also got me through that setup. Fun stuff actually. Haven’t smoked that one yet…
Having not done or seen two cut gear patterns before your post threw me off. Very fascinating stuff for sure.
OP
Ok, I added 0.002 back under the pinion race to push it slightly lower. Backlash is 0.009", rotational pinion preload is 15 ft/lbs, and bearing caps are torqued
It was fairly centered, now it looks way to close to the edge of the tooth. Your marking compound isn't helping either. Amazon or the chevy dealer can help with that.
I'm just learning, so this is only for my own instruction. I make a judgment before I read anyone else's comments. My initial thoughts on this pattern are the pinion is too deep. Is that what you meant by "too deep?" The reason is the pattern starts on the leading edge, which means the pinion is too deep for it's teeth to hit closer to the middle of the ring gear teeth.
Make sure you read the Randy's blog I posted earlier it has good pics to help see what is going on. What you are looking in the pattern is where all the paint has been moved, the shape of it and its location. If you look close at the the OP last two pics you can see the formation of a hard line on the root side of the pattern which is one indication that you are too deep. Because he is so close to being on the money it is not as obvious as it would be if he was further off which is why it can be hard to read. This is where using the bracketing technique Mike describes in his vids works as you actually see the both the deep and shallow versions of the pattern for the gears you are working on and then you can make an informed decision of where the middle is.
Even if you do have a lift, it's always hard getting everything in as the axle is drooping and gravity is working against you.
OP
Ok, I know everyone has been holding their breath for my next pattern, so here it is. Took 0.001" out from behind the pinion race, pinion preload is 18 inch/lbs, and the backlash is 0.007". caps are torqued. I read the yukongear.com blog that Blackjack posted and generated the pattern by turning the ring gear like they suggested and not by turning the pinion and trying to hold pressure.
