Genright Comp EXT Suspension Package

[sierradmax]

There's not much discussion about Genright Offroad Suspension anywhere on the net and the one thread on this forum created by @Chris discussed the Savvy Mid-Arm vs. Genright's 3 link (SUP3101) and their 4 link (SUP4101) kit referenced below.

https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/savvy-mid-arm-vs-genright-mid-arm.14067/
I know this forum favors Savvy heavily but an opportunity came across to buy the suspension "remnants" of a NEW Genright Comp kit (not the EXT). However, my assumption is the suspension between the EXT and COMP uses same control arm mounts, it's just a matter of cutting links down to size. Hell, even their "stage 1" suspension package mentioned by Chris, with use for a Mid-Arm setup, uses the same brackets (SUP3101 & SUP4101). The kit presented does not have any armor or a gas tank, which I had intentions of modifying my corner guards and buying a Genright tank anyways.

With a set of JK Rubicon axles being built for 37's and a goal of 100"-101" wheelbase, I'm at a point where I need to start looking at a "suspension package", including axle/frame control arm mounts, spring buckets, trusses, etc.

Is the Savvy Mid-arm design intended for TJ/LJ's at stock wheelbase? People say "it just works" but why does Genright offer the same 3-link & 4-link throughout their suspension lineup? In terms of a dollar value, the Genright kit offered is a little more than the cost of the Savvy Mid-arm with the exception I'd be getting coilovers and air bumps.

Another thing I keep hearing is the usefulness of 12" of travel on TJ's & LJ's and 14" is just not worth the extra time & money spent. In any event, fabrication is in my future and just by looking at pictures, the Genright kit requires alot more of it for marginal performance gains over a Savvy kit, unless I'm missing something.

 

[Chris]

I believe there are a number of companies that offer their own 3-link front and 4-link triangulated rear. This has proven to be a setup that works on our Jeeps, and is used very frequently in the off-road scene.

Now with the GenRight kit, I am not certain if it requires a body lift or not. If it doesn't require one, then you know just from that one of the major differences between it and the Savvy mid-arm.

The magic behind the Savvy mid-arm lies within the brackets. If you see them up close mounted on a vehicle, you will see why it would be impossible to fit them without the body lift, which it takes advantage of in every way.

Having that body lift and being able to fit the brackets up closer to the tub is a real game changer.

A 14" travel shock can work on a TJ just fine, ask @toximus. The issue is that in order to fit it, you're going to need a highline conversion all around, and it's going to involve quite a bit of cutting and welding. Also, at that point you'd ideally be going coilovers, but you're doing that anyways.

With the way you're going with your build, I'd highly, highly suggest you check out @toximus build thread. He's done everything you are talking about and more, so you'll see in his thread all the various issues you're going to run into along the way.

He has the Savvy mid-arm, so he may have some insight as to why he went with it over the GenRight setup.

@mrblaine may have some more input on the comparison of the Savvy mid-arm versus the GenRight kit. I'm thinking a lot of it comes down to the brackets and the packaging though.

 

[mrblaine]

There's not much discussion about Genright Offroad Suspension anywhere on the net and the one thread on this forum created by @Chris discussed the Savvy Mid-Arm vs. Genright's 3 link (SUP3101) and their 4 link (SUP4101) kit referenced below.

https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/savvy-mid-arm-vs-genright-mid-arm.14067/
I know this forum favors Savvy heavily but an opportunity came across to buy the suspension "remnants" of a NEW Genright Comp kit (not the EXT). However, my assumption is the suspension between the EXT and COMP uses same control arm mounts, it's just a matter of cutting links down to size. Hell, even their "stage 1" suspension package mentioned by Chris, with use for a Mid-Arm setup, uses the same brackets (SUP3101 & SUP4101). The kit presented does not have any armor or a gas tank, which I had intentions of modifying my corner guards and buying a Genright tank anyways.

With a set of JK Rubicon axles being built for 37's and a goal of 100"-101" wheelbase, I'm at a point where I need to start looking at a "suspension package", including axle/frame control arm mounts, spring buckets, trusses, etc.

Is the Savvy Mid-arm design intended for TJ/LJ's at stock wheelbase? People say "it just works" but why does Genright offer the same 3-link & 4-link throughout their suspension lineup? In terms of a dollar value, the Genright kit offered is a little more than the cost of the Savvy Mid-arm with the exception I'd be getting coilovers and air bumps.

Another thing I keep hearing is the usefulness of 12" of travel on TJ's & LJ's and 14" is just not worth the extra time & money spent. In any event, fabrication is in my future and just by looking at pictures, the Genright kit requires alot more of it for marginal performance gains over a Savvy kit, unless I'm missing something.

Doesn't matter, you don't have enough wheelbase for those tires so just build it, go have fun and figure it out.

 

[mrblaine]

I believe there are a number of companies that offer their own 3-link front and 4-link triangulated rear. This has proven to be a setup that works on our Jeeps, and is used very frequently in the off-road scene.

Now with the GenRight kit, I am not certain if it requires a body lift or not. If it doesn't require one, then you know just from that one of the major differences between it and the Savvy mid-arm.

The magic behind the Savvy mid-arm lies within the brackets. If you see them up close mounted on a vehicle, you will see why it would be impossible to fit them without the body lift, which it takes advantage of in every way.

Having that body lift and being able to fit the brackets up closer to the tub is a real game changer.

A 14" travel shock can work on a TJ just fine, ask @toximus. The issue is that in order to fit it, you're going to need a highline conversion all around, and it's going to involve quite a bit of cutting and welding. Also, at that point you'd ideally be going coilovers, but you're doing that anyways.

With the way you're going with your build, I'd highly, highly suggest you check out @toximus build thread. He's done everything you are talking about and more, so you'll see in his thread all the various issues you're going to run into along the way.

He has the Savvy mid-arm, so he may have some insight as to why he went with it over the GenRight setup.

@mrblaine may have some more input on the comparison of the Savvy mid-arm versus the GenRight kit. I'm thinking a lot of it comes down to the brackets and the packaging though.

Tony has tech tuesday videos where he explains why you need to buy his stuff. It's all in there.

 

[Chris]

Oh yeah, I missed the part about 37s and 100" to 101" wheelbase.

Where did that number come from?

 

[Chris]

Tony has tech tuesday videos where he explains why you need to buy his stuff. It's all in there.

Is their marketing as good as Metalcloak?

 

[mrblaine]

Is their marketing as good as Metalcloak?

No, Tony builds good stuff. He has just gone in a different philosophical direction based on a few things that normal folk won't do. The philosophy is based around low uptravel numbers, large tires to get ground clearance, big motor to make them work, and a hangy down belly skid. We don't do that.

I prefer more ground clearance built as low as possible. If you look at Nick's Yellow rig, at the top of the door where the handle is, that number is 3" lower with his 35's on a short arm 4" Currie lift than this one is on 40's. 2.5" of that is the tire difference. That means he is roughly running 4.5" of lift on 40's with 14" travel coil-overs front with 6.5" up, rear with 7"+ up.

 

[toximus]

Tony has tech tuesday videos where he explains why you need to buy his stuff. It's all in there.

Yeah, and buying one of their danger trap rollcages is apparently the first thing you should be buying...

 

[Chris]

No, Tony builds good stuff. He has just gone in a different philosophical direction based on a few things that normal folk won't do. The philosophy is based around low uptravel numbers, large tires to get ground clearance, big motor to make them work, and a hangy down belly skid. We don't do that.

I prefer more ground clearance built as low as possible. If you look at Nick's Yellow rig, at the top of the door where the handle is, that number is 3" lower with his 35's on a short arm 4" Currie lift than this one is on 40's. 2.5" of that is the tire difference. That means he is roughly running 4.5" of lift on 40's with 14" travel coil-overs front with 6.5" up, rear with 7"+ up. View attachment 210625

Only 3" lower? Wow

I'd love to see a rig like this doing the same off-road obstacles as Nicks for instance just to see how each one performs in the real world. The GenRight way of building things (LCoG with huge tires) seems like it wouldn't work nearly as well and that to get the same performance as a rig like Nicks, they have to compensate for it by running a much, much larger tire.

But like you said, they do build good stuff, a lot of it at least.

 

[mrblaine]

Yeah, and buying one of their danger trap rollcages is apparently the first thing you should be buying...

Anyone installing one of those needs to be very aware of the consequences of trapping the dash with the cage. We just swapped a heater core in one. The job went from 5 hours to 30 hours. It sucks when you have to disassemble the entire interior to get a heater core out.

 

[mrblaine]

Only 3" lower? Wow

I'd love to see a rig like this doing the same off-road obstacles as Nicks for instance just to see how each one performs in the real world. The GenRight way of building things (LCoG with huge tires) seems like it wouldn't work nearly as well and that to get the same performance as a rig like Nicks, they have to compensate for it by running a much, much larger tire.

But like you said, they do build good stuff, a lot of it at least.

Two entirely different builds based on the owner's needs. Nick isn't likely to get into the big rocks often enough to justify the mid arm. The wheelbase of the big rig on 40's demands something other than short arms.

Tony has convincing arguments for how they do things. I don't agree with most of them and when he builds a race car, neither does he.

 

[Chris]

Anyone installing one of those needs to be very aware of the consequences of trapping the dash with the cage. We just swapped a heater core in one. The job went from 5 hours to 30 hours. It sucks when you have to disassemble the entire interior to get a heater core out.

Time for a flat dash I guess... Jesus

 

[sierradmax]

Oh yeah, I missed the part about 37s and 100" to 101" wheelbase.

Where did that number come from?

I believe there are a number of companies that offer their own 3-link front and 4-link triangulated rear. This has proven to be a setup that works on our Jeeps, and is used very frequently in the off-road scene.

Now with the GenRight kit, I am not certain if it requires a body lift or not. If it doesn't require one, then you know just from that one of the major differences between it and the Savvy mid-arm.

The magic behind the Savvy mid-arm lies within the brackets. If you see them up close mounted on a vehicle, you will see why it would be impossible to fit them without the body lift, which it takes advantage of in every way.

Having that body lift and being able to fit the brackets up closer to the tub is a real game changer.

A 14" travel shock can work on a TJ just fine, ask @toximus. The issue is that in order to fit it, you're going to need a highline conversion all around, and it's going to involve quite a bit of cutting and welding. Also, at that point you'd ideally be going coilovers, but you're doing that anyways.

With the way you're going with your build, I'd highly, highly suggest you check out @toximus build thread. He's done everything you are talking about and more, so you'll see in his thread all the various issues you're going to run into along the way.

He has the Savvy mid-arm, so he may have some insight as to why he went with it over the GenRight setup.

@mrblaine may have some more input on the comparison of the Savvy mid-arm versus the GenRight kit. I'm thinking a lot of it comes down to the brackets and the packaging though.

I'll check out his build for sure but 67 pages might lead me to drink several cups of coffee. As far as a bodylift & highline, My TJ has a 1" BL and MC fenders (yes, I know this forum doesn't like them either). Whether or not they'll stay is not certain. Funny how I'm probably like 99 out of 100 other TJ/LJ owners.. Build only to rebuild.

 

[Chris]

Two entirely different builds based on the owner's needs. Nick isn't likely to get into the big rocks often enough to justify the mid arm. The wheelbase of the big rig on 40's demands something other than short arms.

Tony has convincing arguments for how they do things. I don't agree with most of them and when he builds a race car, neither does he.

Let's say Nick's rig had a mid-arm. With the same driver, is that GenRight rig on 40s going to seriously outperform the mid-arm rig on 35s on the same trails, taking the same lines, etc.?

 

[mrblaine]

Time for a flat dash I guess... Jesus

No, you still have to bolt the flat dash to the door jambs. That is where the down legs for the cage bolt. That means you still have to unbolt and remove the whole cage to get the dash out.

 

[B00mb00m]

Anyone installing one of those needs to be very aware of the consequences of trapping the dash with the cage. We just swapped a heater core in one. The job went from 5 hours to 30 hours. It sucks when you have to disassemble the entire interior to get a heater core out.

I have the cage tubes running through the dash.... I imagine when i have to do a heater core its going to be even worse than dash plates as I'll have to be cutting my cage feet off or something. Do you have make the cage A pillar tubes removeable when you do a cage?

 

[mrblaine]

I have the cage tubes running through the dash.... I imagine when i have to do a heater core its going to be even worse than dash plates as I'll have to be cutting my cage feet off or something. Do you have make the cage A pillar tubes removeable when you do a cage?

You don't have a cage so do it however you like.

 

[toximus]

I have the cage tubes running through the dash.... I imagine when i have to do a heater core its going to be even worse than dash plates as I'll have to be cutting my cage feet off or something. Do you have make the cage A pillar tubes removeable when you do a cage?

Through, or behind? Behind only means you'll need to remove the dash to remove the cage.

 

[mrblaine]

Let's say Nick's rig had a mid-arm. With the same driver, is that GenRight rig on 40s going to seriously outperform the mid-arm rig on 35s on the same trails, taking the same lines, etc.?

It is all the same. You aren't going to get Nick's rig on the same lines because he can squeak through places where the rig on 40's will have to put a tire or two on a rock that is taller than the door height of Nick's. You can't armchair wheel this stuff, you have to go do it.

It is like the KOH car, yeah, it looks good from here until you drive it and figure out that it won't crawl nearly as well as it bounces over stuff. You won't outrun it but you may not like how it gets from point A to point B unless that is your thing.

 

[toximus]

I'll check out his build for sure but 67 pages might lead me to drink several cups of coffee. As far as a bodylift & highline, My TJ has a 1" BL and MC fenders (yes, I know this forum doesn't like them either). Whether or not they'll stay is not certain. Funny how I'm probably like 99 out of 100 other TJ/LJ owners.. Build only to rebuild.

Going back to your original post, are you sure that you want/need 37s and 101 wheelbase? Maybe if you post up the spots where you wheel others will post up similar areas and what works well for them.