Genright universal crossmember question

mrblaine said:
Very much so. If you've had your Wheaties and are tolerable at the bench press, you can push the drivetrain up off of a jack laying under the rig. The static load on that crossmember isn't more than about 250 lbs or so. Adding the larger diameter to the middle stiffens up the point where it would start to deflect first.
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ya this,..... the goal is support not added rigidity.
 
someguysjeep said:
the 3 piece slip tube crap is so you can make your ends and the slip tube eliminates the need for the precise measurements a single tube requires.
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You can make your measurements and cuts as precise as you like and I have many times. The problem is when you weld with even great fit up, stuff shrinks and the bolt holes at the frame tabs do not line up. If you weld everything else first and then weld the slip fit pieces to the ends of the bigger tube, it doesn't move or shrink.
 
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mrblaine said:
You can make your measurements and cuts as precise as you like and I have many times. The problem is when you weld with even great fit up, stuff shrinks and the bolt holes at the frame tabs do not line up. If you everything else first and then weld the slip fit pieces to the ends of the bigger tube, it doesn't move or shrink.
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nice catch, i was bout to edit and add "or it pulling while welding".
 
I've got the TMR crossmember with a 2 Speed Atlas. I mocked it all up and my buddy welded it up. Let me dig around for some pics and I'll post up in a bit.
 
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Here are some pics of the TMR crossmember:
5A411566-7650-481A-A63F-1E9A727D4BEF.jpeg
BDF0218F-FCFF-499D-98C8-1B4F06A1B7E8.jpeg
 
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not sure if i really had to bother but i tried to maintain the exhaust support too,

see now the design similar to above, i thought to be to rigid...... it changes the way the whole driveline balances. it's not central anymore. now it's transferred to levers that add a lot of rigidity/stability.
 
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Wasn't it boomboom who made his own using JK CA bushings at the frame instead of poly? I was leaning towards the TMR kit and decided I will make my own instead, similar to his. It will probably require deleting the third cat but I'm ok with that. By DIY I can maintain rubber/rubber and hopefully keep vibes at a minimum. Any reasons to not do it that way?
 
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hosejockey61 said:
Wasn't it boomboom who made his own using JK CA bushings at the frame instead of poly? I was leaning towards the TMR kit and decided I will make my own instead, similar to his. It will probably require deleting the third cat but I'm ok with that. By DIY I can maintain rubber/rubber and hopefully keep vibes at a minimum. Any reasons to not do it that way?
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49cent ea. rubber leaf spring shackle bushings and grade 8 bolts at the frame, work just as well. they are a little softer than clevite but last just as long.
 
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hosejockey61 said:
Wasn't it boomboom who made his own using JK CA bushings at the frame instead of poly? I was leaning towards the TMR kit and decided I will make my own instead, similar to his. It will probably require deleting the third cat but I'm ok with that. By DIY I can maintain rubber/rubber and hopefully keep vibes at a minimum. Any reasons to not do it that way?
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Yes, that's what i did. I don't have much for vibes, there are some clunks when i drive, not sure if that's JK bushing related or not.
 
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I’m thinking about a DIY using JL bushings and 1x3 rectangle tube (or whatever seems to fit nicely). Should be a fairly easy project.
My biggest concern is the vibes. Is it anything like what you get with the generic transmission mounts?
 
Claytone said:
I’m thinking about a DIY using JL bushings and 1x3 rectangle tube (or whatever seems to fit nicely). Should be a fairly easy project.
My biggest concern is the vibes. Is it anything like what you get with the generic transmission mounts?
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I'm a fan of 1 x 3 .120 wall but there again, I do things because I can, not because it makes much difference.

DSC_5677.JPG
DSC_5679.JPG
 
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Dead sexy there, that’s approximately what I was thinking. Nice use of the oem mount.
How much of a tuck did that provide relative to stock?
 
B00mb00m said:
I like that also but how did you deal with the issue mentioned before how no matter how perfect you get it when you weld it changes. Theres no telescoping ability in the box one
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You can be real good or cheat and build your frame tabs after the crossmember.
 
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B00mb00m said:
I like that also but how did you deal with the issue mentioned before how no matter how perfect you get it when you weld it changes. Theres no telescoping ability in the box one
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I made the frame tabs last, cut them perfectly to fit, clamped and transfer punched them for drilling. Then when I was all done and the welds pulled the tabs over, I ran a drill bit of the proper size through to make the bolts an easy slip fit.
 
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